FJ coils/5100s/OME 885/895

[Jeremy107]

Hey gents, currently running 5100s on FJ coils on my wifes 08' V6 SR5 (stock weight). Its her daily and we use it throw the RTT and do weekend camping. I've got a couple projects to handle and throwing some ideas around around different lift.

Overall goal: Small Lift with less wondering on road driving. Fixing driver side LCA has frozen alignment bolt not allowing for perfect green alignment specs

Question: Will the 885/895 OME coils be the way to go for a slightly bigger lift? Swapping from the FJ coils but keeping the 5100s. What setting will the 5100s need to be at with the new OME springs?

Also read that with slightly increasing the lift that the UCA upgrade is also recommended for alignment and better daily driving. What brand? Does the UCA need to be adjustable?? I've read its overkill and some alignment shops don't even know how to adjust them.

For the frozen LCA fix, best option Ive seen on the forum is sawall the LCA to get the frozen alignment bolt out. Planned on ordering a new LCA and pins for that side

 

[riceandpho]

frrom what I have read, with ome lift springs, best to leave the 5100 at the 0 setting since, I have seen some here use the 0.85 setting.

since your truck is wandering, I think its best to have the inner and outter tie rods look at. I had mines replaced last year and it solved that (200k miles), my alignments with the stock upper and lower control arms, you need to have them set the caster close to 3.

my setup is similar to yours, 5100s (0.85) and moog fj coils in the front.

 

[Jeremy107]

frrom what I have read, with ome lift springs, best to leave the 5100 at the 0 setting since, I have seen some here use the 0.85 setting.

since your truck is wandering, I think its best to have the inner and outter tie rods look at. I had mines replaced last year and it solved that (200k miles), my alignments with the stock upper and lower control arms, you need to have them set the caster close to 3.

my setup is similar to yours, 5100s (0.85) and moog fj coils in the front.

Is there is configuration for my current front end to get my lift? Since I’m doing new LCA and Freedom off-road UCA. And just swap the rears to 895 for more lift?

It’s been a few years since I did the 5100s and FJ coils up front so can’t remember exactly what I set the 5100s to. (EDIT: I set them to 1.75) I’ll check. It’s got 260k on it so good idea on tie rod ends while in there. New sway end links complete already

 

[riceandpho]

Is there is configuration for my current front end to get my lift? Since I’m doing new LCA and Freedom off-road UCA. And just swap the rears to 895 for more lift?

It’s been a few years since I did the 5100s and FJ coils up front so can’t remember exactly what I set the 5100s to. (EDIT: I set them to 1.75) I’ll check. It’s got 260k on it so good idea on tie rod ends while in there. New sway end links complete already

your ome are lift springs, leave the 5100 set at the lowest, it'll probably give the same results as your current front settings, just firmer and your not preloading them.

 

[Jeremy107]

your ome are lift springs, leave the 5100 set at the lowest, it'll probably give the same results as your current front settings, just firmer and your not preloading them.

I currently have the FJ coils on all 4 corners with 5100s set on 1.75 in the front.

Wanting to upgrade coils in the rear as with the roof top tent during our trips the FJ coils sag to bad. If I upgrade to OME 885 it will result in more lift in the rear than current set up and better spring rate from what I’ve read. Can I adjust the front 5100s with the FJ coils anymore? Or better off to upgrade to 895s?

The OME coils 885/895 and 5100 set on 0 is a higher lift than my current set up by 1” or so? Does that sound right?

 

[riceandpho]

it should be right, new coils are still going to lift the truck up. then wait for it to settle after some miles.

I currently have the FJ coils on all 4 corners with 5100s set on 1.75 in the front.

Wanting to upgrade coils in the rear as with the roof top tent during our trips the FJ coils sag to bad. If I upgrade to OME 885 it will result in more lift in the rear than current set up and better spring rate from what I’ve read. Can I adjust the front 5100s with the FJ coils anymore? Or better off to upgrade to 895s?

The OME coils 885/895 and 5100 set on 0 is a higher lift than my current set up by 1” or so? Does that sound right?

 

[bob3dsf]

New UCA's do not need to be adjustable. I believe the only adjustable ones are the SPC's. Not very good reviews. I know there are several owners on T4R who have them and like them, but I've been seeing negative reviews on overall quality, customer service, and their adj. ball joint that can get knocked out of alignment. Whenever I upgrade mine, I'm going with JBA's.

 

[stevelikesrhino]

1. I do not recommend any OME rear coil with bilstein 5100. OME rear coils are way too heavily sprung for bilstein 5100 (imo for stock weight 4runner as well). I've run 2895E (shorter coil compared to 2895, same spring rate) and they're like concrete. They do handle wonderful on road, that's about it. Plus, bilstein 5100s are tuned for stock spring rate.

2. A better way to get more lift in the rear is using spacers or other lift coils with less than 220lb/in spring rate (Dobinsons, Eibach, Bilstein). This way your 5100s wouldn't get overwhelmed with crazy stiff springs. If you are doing a rear bumper or ROUTINELY carrys a lot of weight in rear, then go for heavier springs. Also, spacers wouldn't be a problem in the rear since your rear droop is limited by shock length not spring length.

3. Best way to get more lift in front is by cranking the preload up to the top notch (also not recommend: with FJ coils and 5100s at 1.75 you're already looking at around 2 inches of lift; at 2.5 inch perch you're looking at 3+ inches, which is a lot of lift). Those shocks are tuned for stock spring rate, and they've tested them with all 4 notches, so you can safely use all the heights. You can get OME coils for marginally better handling, but not necessary just to get more lift, and they will not solve your wandering problem.

4. Like other replies mentioned, aftermarket high caster UCAs don't need to adjustable, and if aligned properly they can make it drive better with better steering feel and weight. If your other components are good, LCA bushings, tie rods, they may even solve your wandering problem. Mine's steering has a bit of play and is a bit stiff, but using aftermarket UCAs running almost 5 degrees of caster made it wander a lot less on highway. You can play with a bit of toe-in as well, setting it to the factory limit.

 

[Jeremy107]

1. I do not recommend any OME rear coil with bilstein 5100. OME rear coils are way too heavily sprung for bilstein 5100 (imo for stock weight 4runner as well). I've run 2895E (shorter coil compared to 2895, same spring rate) and they're like concrete. They do handle wonderful on road, that's about it. Plus, bilstein 5100s are tuned for stock spring rate.

2. A better way to get more lift in the rear is using spacers or other lift coils with less than 220lb/in spring rate (Dobinsons, Eibach, Bilstein). This way your 5100s wouldn't get overwhelmed with crazy stiff springs. If you are doing a rear bumper or ROUTINELY carrys a lot of weight in rear, then go for heavier springs. Also, spacers wouldn't be a problem in the rear since your rear droop is limited by shock length not spring length.

3. Best way to get more lift in front is by cranking the preload up to the top notch (also not recommend: with FJ coils and 5100s at 1.75 you're already looking at around 2 inches of lift; at 2.5 inch perch you're looking at 3+ inches, which is a lot of lift). Those shocks are tuned for stock spring rate, and they've tested them with all 4 notches, so you can safely use all the heights. You can get OME coils for marginally better handling, but not necessary just to get more lift, and they will not solve your wandering problem.

4. Like other replies mentioned, aftermarket high caster UCAs don't need to adjustable, and if aligned properly they can make it drive better with better steering feel and weight. If your other components are good, LCA bushings, tie rods, they may even solve your wandering problem. Mine's steering has a bit of play and is a bit stiff, but using aftermarket UCAs running almost 5 degrees of caster made it wander a lot less on highway. You can play with a bit of toe-in as well, setting it to the factory limit.

1. The FJ coils in the rear don’t seat into the axle housing as good as they should. Which I’m sure is affecting the ride. So assuming I want to swap the rear coils anyways but want to add additional 1-1.5” (totaling the rear to 2.5” lift). The OME isn’t the way to go with my rear 5100s?

2. No additional weight daily. We camp with RTT and 2 dogs occasionally.

3. The front is at 2” currently. I’d like to be .5-1” more. So totally could be 2.5-3” from stock. Stock weight V6. Never plans to add any.

4. 2.5-3” goal lift calls from UCA. I’m cutting out the lower LCA and seized alignment bolt while I’m in there. I don’t feel like the current FJ coils added 2”.

I’d like to run my current 5100s with some new coils helping me achieve this lift. What coils would be recommend?

 

[stevelikesrhino]

1. The FJ coils in the rear don’t seat into the axle housing as good as they should. Which I’m sure is affecting the ride. So assuming I want to swap the rear coils anyways but want to add additional 1-1.5” (totaling the rear to 2.5” lift). The OME isn’t the way to go with my rear 5100s?

2. No additional weight daily. We camp with RTT and 2 dogs occasionally.

3. The front is at 2” currently. I’d like to be .5-1” more. So totally could be 2.5-3” from stock. Stock weight V6. Never plans to add any.

4. 2.5-3” goal lift calls from UCA. I’m cutting out the lower LCA and seized alignment bolt while I’m in there. I don’t feel like the current FJ coils added 2”.

I’d like to run my current 5100s with some new coils helping me achieve this lift. What coils would be recommend?

For the front, since 5100 snap rings only preload the spring, if you move the snap rings to the top notch you'll get exactly 0.75 inches more, and it won't settle. If you feel like that's not enough, then get some OME front coils. Their regular front coils are pretty softly sprung so it wouldn't ride much different. I'm just trying to save you 200 bucks lol.

For the rear, as you already have an RTT, OME coils might be fine. I don't think anyone makes rear coils that give over 2 inches of rear lift but also retains "near" factory spring rate. Plus, if your current setup sags badly, OMEs will definitely fix that. Just a heads up that 5100s are really tuned for stock weight coil springs, but if you find your damping insufficient, at least rear shocks are easy to swap

 

[Jeremy107]

For the front, since 5100 snap rings only preload the spring, if you move the snap rings to the top notch you'll get exactly 0.75 inches more, and it won't settle. If you feel like that's not enough, then get some OME front coils. Their regular front coils are pretty softly sprung so it wouldn't ride much different. I'm just trying to save you 200 bucks lol.

For the rear, as you already have an RTT, OME coils might be fine. I don't think anyone makes rear coils that give over 2 inches of rear lift but also retains "near" factory spring rate. Plus, if your current setup sags badly, OMEs will definitely fix that. Just a heads up that 5100s are really tuned for stock weight coil springs, but if you find your damping insufficient, at least rear shocks are easy to swap

Thanks for the feedback! Thinking of moving the 5100s one notch. New UCA.

Would it be better to do new factory rear springs and add a 2” spacer? And keep the 5100s for the rear also?

 

[stevelikesrhino]

Thanks for the feedback! Thinking of moving the 5100s one notch. New UCA.

Would it be better to do new factory rear springs and add a 2” spacer? And keep the 5100s for the rear also?

Are you *set* on getting 2.5 inches in the rear? If you go that route OME springs are basically the best bet, but they are pretty stiff when unloaded.

If you don't, Dobinson's C59-325 gives about 1.75-2″ lift in the rear, are not as stiff as OME, but still stiffer than stock. OMEs have spring rate AT LEAST 260lbf/in, Dobinsons are starting from 220lbf/in, stock springs are ~180lbf/in. Dobinsons stock load options are more like stock-plus options: they will improve the sagging situation, but aren't rock stiff when empty. Here's mine with C59-505 that gives 1.5" lift in the rear. It's quite a bit of lift, but it's handling the toolbox in my trunk much better. And C59-325 will give even more than this.

https://imgur.com/a/P2kaVxE