Fox 2.5 Install Tip w/KDSS

[Phade]

I have an install day tomorrow. Normally I’d have attempted it myself but I had disc surgery unexpectedly in May and can’t do anything like this for at least another 3 months. So I have a reputable shop who has done good quality work and has a strong reputation. They are not 4Runner experts but have done plenty of lifts on trucks. Shop is also the area’s go to for alignments and the installer was familiar with SPC UCAs.

Truck is a 19 ORP KDSS

Here is what I have going on:

Fox 2.5 coilovers - no resi
Fox 2.5 rears with DSC
Eibach 1” standard weight springs in rear (It looks like they are the same springs that go on the Eibach Kit?)
SPC UCAs

Icon Rebounds 17s with the new Open Country AT3. Wheels are 0 offset and 4.75” backspace.

Looking to accomplish around a 2” lift or just enough to clear the 285/70s without having to BMC. Fine if adjustments need higher to clear. Fender liner trim and mud flap is all fair game.

I’ve been researching for any threads or videos that walk through troubleshooting on the Fox 2.5 setup on a KDSS. Looking for tips on resolving lean issues, any tips for dealing with the KDSS, and adjusting the Fox 2.5 setup. What I come across is a whole bunch of inconsistency with what setting they come with out the box, ways to fix lean (spacers vs adjusting or calibrating the system). A hot mess if you will.

Can anyone here shoot over links or tips to look for that I can direct the shop to if they run into issues?

 

[Patriot12]

I just put in some Kings and followed their KDSS specific instructions to a T and it worked quite well. Mainly that you had to take off both old shocks first and then install the driver side (new) and then the passenger (new). Make sure you only compress the KDSS cylinder to raise/lower the lower control arms assuming you already disconnected the tie rods and UCA from spindle. DO NOT unbolt the KDSS sway bar itself.

 

[Jetboy]

I have few tips -

I don't think you can set the height before installing without some adjustment after. Adjusting after isn't all that difficult. They can be adjusted on the vehicle pretty easily - especially when they're new. If you're looking for 2 inches of lift - I'd start somewhere in the ball park of 1.5" down from the top the threads and see what you get from there. The lowest possible height with both collars still fully on the threads at the top is about equal to 1" lift on mine. That puts the lower collar roughly 3/4" down from the top of the threads. Adding another 3/4" of preload should put you somewhere around 2-2.5" lift That's my best guess. Everyone's setup is a little different.

The lower shock spherical bearing and misalignment spacer on mine seize up like crazy. I've had to cut them apart to remove once and am already at the point of having to do it again for the second time in just 5 years. Frustrating. So - I would put a LOT of aluminum anti-seize on them. I used a copper based anti-seize the second time and I think it may have made it worse, not sure. Everything I've put copper based anti-seize on has seized just as bad as using nothing. So lube up the through bolt and the misalignment spacers really well with anti-seize,. but use the aluminum based type.

I will be installing these on the next round - for the front only. I haven't had issues with the rear shocks at all.

Outside of those suggestions, just follow the normal install procedures that there are many threads on here. Good luck.

 

[Phade]

Thank you both!

 

[Jetboy]

Also - since you're going to be in the area - you really should remove the lower control arm cam bolts and put antiseize on them. Those are notorious for seizing up very quickly and the removal is generally to cut them apart, and replace with entirely new lower control arms. Expensive fix for something that should be easy. So what you'd need to do is just pull the bolts and sleeves out completely, slather them up with anti-seize, and put them back. If they're pretty new, it'll be an easy thing to do while you're there and have the shocks off, and before you get your alignment done. An ounce of prevention here will save a lot of PITA in the future. I'm at that point now. I have one that has seized. My 4R is a 2015, so it's not that old to have them seized already. My 1996 4runner was just fine the last alignment with the same design and lived in the same environment. So there's something different about the hardware or coatings that is causing the issue.

I'm also a big fan of purple loctite. It's basically just a minimum strength thread sealer. If I'm not using antiseize or have a good reason to have blue threadlocker - I always coat the bolts in purple loctite now. Order it on Amazon. You generally won't find it in stock anywhere. Don't use red loctite on anything unless you're really really sure you want it on there forever. You will likely see a pink/red thread locker on bolts you remove. That is not red loctite. The OEM toyota thread locker colors don't match loctite brand. The pink/red you see is closer to blue loctite.

 

[SpeedyKevin]

Also - since you're going to be in the area - you really should remove the lower control arm cam bolts and put antiseize on them. Those are notorious for seizing up very quickly and the removal is generally to cut them apart, and replace with entirely new lower control arms. Expensive fix for something that should be easy. So what you'd need to do is just pull the bolts and sleeves out completely, slather them up with anti-seize, and put them back. If they're pretty new, it'll be an easy thing to do while you're there and have the shocks off, and before you get your alignment done. An ounce of prevention here will save a lot of PITA in the future. I'm at that point now. I have one that has seized. My 4R is a 2015, so it's not that old to have them seized already. My 1996 4runner was just fine the last alignment with the same design and lived in the same environment. So there's something different about the hardware or coatings that is causing the issue.

I'm also a big fan of purple loctite. It's basically just a minimum strength thread sealer. If I'm not using antiseize or have a good reason to have blue threadlocker - I always coat the bolts in purple loctite now. Order it on Amazon. You generally won't find it in stock anywhere. Don't use red loctite on anything unless you're really really sure you want it on there forever. You will likely see a pink/red thread locker on bolts you remove. That is not red loctite. The OEM toyota thread locker colors don't match loctite brand. The pink/red you see is closer to blue loctite.

Is this the one?
Amazon.com: Loctite 555339 Threadlocker 222 Low Strength Tube, Purple, 6-ml: Automotive

packaging is confusing as its mainly red haha

 

[Jetboy]

Is this the one?
Amazon.com: Loctite 555339 Threadlocker 222 Low Strength Tube, Purple, 6-ml: Automotive

packaging is confusing as its mainly red haha

Yeah. That's the one. Blue loctite also now comes in a red tube. Very confusing to me. Especially when I also have a blue tube of blue loctite.

I actually bought this one the last time. Seems to be about the same as far as I can tell. Just cheaper. Amazon.com: Vibra-TITE 111 Low Strength Removable Anaerobic Threadlocker, 10ml Bottle, Purple: Industrial & Scientific

It's not really a replacement for where you'd otherwise use blue loctite. But it sits kind of in-between anti-seize and blue loctite. Just keeps the corrosion out mostly, but less mess for some situations.


Also - I guess it must be COVID, but that seems really expensive for the small tube. I think that's more like the normal price for the big bottle. Haven't bought it in a while.