Fuel Tank Skid Options

[Devbot]

Curious as to what everyone is running for a fuel tank skid plate and what kind of clearance it offers, any downsides, etc. Currently trying to whittle it down between Lil Skip, Coastal, and Shrockworks;
Both Coastal and Shrockworks claim to offer more clearance than Lil Skip, but it seems like many people have had issues with Shrockworks and I don't recall seeing anybody using Coastal's DIY set before (also not keen on welding it myself, with it priced so closely to completed plates). It seems like mostly everyone shoots for Lil Skip but I see his skid plate needs to be modified to run sliders, which I do plan to get some point down the road - but with that said I don't think I've read a single complaint about his set otherwise.
Thoughts? Opinions? Am I skimming over some better options on the market? Pitch in your 2 cents here. :ear:

 

[Quantumkiwi]

FWIW, I didn't have to modify my Lil Skip skid to run sliders. Maybe its only true for bolt on sliders, but mine welded up just fine.

 

[PrinceValorum]

Fwiw I have the full set of Shrockworks skids and I really like them. I actually ripped my gas tank off prior to having them, ending the trip about 30 mins into the trail. I think it could have been entirely prevented with them. Great coverage, hella beefy, build quality and powder coat are awesome. No clearance issues with sliders, or anything. Ground clearance is great, it fits very tight to the tank. I've mentioned having skid plates to a few friends who aren't into this kind of stuff, and encourage them to look under the truck, and the reaction every time is, "holy s**t!"

Haven't used them on rocks yet, but I've bottomed out the radiator/engine skid area several times in deep ruts, and the impact is teeth rattling. Despite that, only a few spots even have the coating missing. Idk what it would take to dent that area, since it's so reinforced, but I don't think I'd want to be in the truck when it happened.

Another bonus is the entire skid area basically becomes a jack point, lol.

Only downside I can even think of is they are a pain to install, but that's just the nature of the beast. Also washing mud out of the rad skid is kind of a pain.

Just took all of them off except the gas skid to do a bunch of involved maintenance.

 

[Devbot]

FWIW, I didn't have to modify my Lil Skip skid to run sliders. Maybe its only true for bolt on sliders, but mine welded up just fine.

I believe that is the case now that you mention it. Good to know, thanks!

Fwiw I have the full set of Shrockworks skids and I really like them. I actually ripped my gas tank off prior to having them, ending the trip about 30 mins into the trail. I think it could have been entirely prevented with them. Great coverage, hella beefy, build quality and powder coat are awesome. No clearance issues with sliders, or anything. Ground clearance is great, it fits very tight to the tank. I've mentioned having skid plates to a few friends who aren't into this kind of stuff, and encourage them to look under the truck, and the reaction every time is, "holy s**t!"

I've read good things from those who do have them, but I've also read a couple reports on the skid not fitting right and some horrific customer service so I was wondering if it's worth the gamble. Ironically I've already tried emailing them about their front skids before on two separate occasions and have gotten no response both times. Which is a shame cause I really like how they look, and I think they'd look even better if you went and dimpled the holes

 

[toverturf]

I don't know if you want to run aluminum but this is another option. 96-02 4RUNNER GAS TANK SKID PLATE | Element By RA Motorsports

 

[PrinceValorum]

II've also read a couple reports on the skid not fitting right and some horrific customer service so I was wondering if it's worth the gamble. Ironically I've already tried emailing them about their front skids before on two separate occasions and have gotten no response both times. Which is a shame cause I really like how they look, and I think they'd look even better if you went and dimpled the holes

Fwiw, I bought my Shrockworks bumper off of craigslist, and asked them if I could just buy a hardware kit for my bumper, and they said no problem. I also lost one of the brackets for my gas skid before installing it and had to order a replacement from them, and I didn't have any issues. Iirc I think I had to call vs email them, but it's been a few years.

That's just been my experience, ymmv.

 

[T4topher]

Or you could just f150 tank swap lol..

 

[WeakSauz]

I'm running a full set of shrockworks skids, front to back. Really pleased with how they fit and how beefy they are. You can jack the whole truck up from basically any point if you wanted to. Way overbuilt.

My driveshaft grease zerk gets torn off on my Shrockworks gas tank skid everytime I go wheeling. But I dont think thats a shrockworks problem, its more of a 3rd gen 4runner thing

 

[Devbot]

Or you could just f150 tank swap lol..

This is something I've greatly considered but ultimately something I'm gonna put off for the time being, I might do it around the same time as the sliders or tire carrier whenever that may be. There's actually a 3rd gen near identical to mine a couple blocks over with the swap, and I eye it any time I pass by it. Then again, having two tanks would be pretty nice too, only filling up once a month... :usa:

 

[Devbot]

bumping after a while, still can't decide and my budbuilt skid just shipped :decision:

 

[Endlessblockades]

I'm looking at the Lil' Skip's too, and I emailed him. He got right back to me and said he would modify one of the tank skid mounting brackets a bit at no charge. I believe the tweak is only needed for us weirdos with bolt-on sliders (Shrockworks in my case). He has been making these for a long time and has probably seen every possible configuration. Bonus points for being responsive and a seemingly straight-up vendor.

***Please note, some modification might be needed when used with bolt on style sliders. Please contact me for more information***

Lil' Skip's Offroad | Fabricating parts for the offroad enthusiast

 

[Unner]

I was one of the first to get the shrockworks full skid kits. You probably read my issues, but here's a summary.

Had a ton of contact issues with the driveshaft and gas tank skid when flexing. Pestered them about it until they "redesigned" it. They sent me the new version free of charge which was good on them. Still didn't fit, had contact of the driveshaft and skid. More than just ripping the zerk off, but a terrible noise and thud as the driveshaft yoke would slam into it and force it's way past. I pulled the skid, ground down the area with contact as much as possible and put a set screw in where the zerk goes for normal driving. I just pop the zerk in when greasing.

My first suspension was LC coils and LC shocks. Now with slightly shorter King shocks and OME861s I don't think I get any more contact when flexing. Honestly can't remember. That was after modifying though. It was a pain dealing with all of that, I would go with a different company the next time around.

Keep in mind I also don't have any sort of a panhard bar correction. If you have an extended one, or a drop/raise it will pull your driveshaft further to the driver side making the contact worse.

Food for thought and my two cents.

 

[Devbot]

I'm looking at the Lil' Skip's too, and I emailed him. He got right back to me and said he would modify one of the tank skid mounting brackets a bit at no charge. I believe the tweak is only needed for us weirdos with bolt-on sliders (Shrockworks in my case). He has been making these for a long time and has probably seen every possible configuration. Bonus points for being responsive and a seemingly straight-up vendor.

***Please note, some modification might be needed when used with bolt on style sliders. Please contact me for more information***

Lil' Skip's Offroad | Fabricating parts for the offroad enthusiast

Good to know, thanks! Thinking I might go with him then. Sliders are often desperately needed in my area, it's a miracle I haven't messed up my doors or rocker panels yet, but I'd really rather be able to put them on when needed and avoid rolling around with all that extra weight all the time

I was one of the first to get the shrockworks full skid kits. You probably read my issues, but here's a summary.

Had a ton of contact issues with the driveshaft and gas tank skid when flexing. Pestered them about it until they "redesigned" it. They sent me the new version free of charge which was good on them. Still didn't fit, had contact of the driveshaft and skid. More than just ripping the zerk off, but a terrible noise and thud as the driveshaft yoke would slam into it and force it's way past. I pulled the skid, ground down the area with contact as much as possible and put a set screw in where the zerk goes for normal driving. I just pop the zerk in when greasing.

My first suspension was LC coils and LC shocks. Now with slightly shorter King shocks and OME861s I don't think I get any more contact when flexing. Honestly can't remember. That was after modifying though. It was a pain dealing with all of that, I would go with a different company the next time around.

Keep in mind I also don't have any sort of a panhard bar correction. If you have an extended one, or a drop/raise it will pull your driveshaft further to the driver side making the contact worse.

Food for thought and my two cents.

I believe you were actually one of the reports that initially put me off of them, and that's real good to know because I'm running LC shocks+coils in rear, so thank you for the warning I'll look more into that! Really not keen on changing the rear susp, Im loving the 210v/Tokico combo! And with how expensive Dobinsons is like hell I'm gonna ditch them just for a skid plate

 

[PrinceValorum]

I was one of the first to get the shrockworks full skid kits. You probably read my issues, but here's a summary.

Had a ton of contact issues with the driveshaft and gas tank skid when flexing. Pestered them about it until they "redesigned" it. They sent me the new version free of charge which was good on them. Still didn't fit, had contact of the driveshaft and skid. More than just ripping the zerk off, but a terrible noise and thud as the driveshaft yoke would slam into it and force it's way past. I pulled the skid, ground down the area with contact as much as possible and put a set screw in where the zerk goes for normal driving. I just pop the zerk in when greasing.

My first suspension was LC coils and LC shocks. Now with slightly shorter King shocks and OME861s I don't think I get any more contact when flexing. Honestly can't remember. That was after modifying though. It was a pain dealing with all of that, I would go with a different company the next time around.

Keep in mind I also don't have any sort of a panhard bar correction. If you have an extended one, or a drop/raise it will pull your driveshaft further to the driver side making the contact worse.

Food for thought and my two cents.

I'm gonna have to check mine now once I get the truck back together after the timing belt job. I don't know that I've done a full flex test since having the gas skid on, but I don't think mine has ever contacted the drive shaft on the trails I've done in Kentucky (nothing too extreme). I know the zerk is still on the driveshaft.

I got my skids in mid 2018. I'm curious if they modified them again since you got your updated skid from them?

I've got 10" FJ80 Icon shocks in the rear with Superflex coils, and the SS adjustable panhard bar.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Good to know, thanks! Thinking I might go with him then. Sliders are often desperately needed in my area, it's a miracle I haven't messed up my doors or rocker panels yet, but I'd really rather be able to put them on when needed and avoid rolling around with all that extra weight all the time

Just FYI - Shrockworks bolt-on sliders aren't something I could see pulling on and off as needed. Maybe there are other brands using different bolt-on methods, but the stick-nuts you feed inside the frame might be a pain in the ass to redo over and over.....I went bolt-on because I had no way or where to weld at the time. I could see moving them to another rig easily enough, though but I am just accepting the weight penalty.

 

[Devbot]

Just FYI - Shrockworks bolt-on sliders aren't something I could see pulling on and off as needed. Maybe there are other brands using different bolt-on methods, but the stick-nuts you feed inside the frame might be a pain in the ass to redo over and over.....I went bolt-on because I had no way or where to weld at the time. I could see moving them to another rig easily enough, though but I am just accepting the weight penalty.

Ohhhh, I getcha, good to know. Well conveniently I DO have a friend/coworker that makes custom bumpers and sliders, so maybe I'll run it by him and see what he thinks. I wouldn't mind the weight so much if I had a supercharger to give me a little push! But by the end of the year I'm gonna be running around 350lbs extra all the time (+40ish from the skid when wheeling), so relatively speaking another +100-150 would be pretty significant. Maybe I'm just overthinking it too :doh:

 

[Devbot]

Went with Lil Skip, thanks all

 

[Unner]

I'm gonna have to check mine now once I get the truck back together after the timing belt job. I don't know that I've done a full flex test since having the gas skid on, but I don't think mine has ever contacted the drive shaft on the trails I've done in Kentucky (nothing too extreme). I know the zerk is still on the driveshaft.

I got my skids in mid 2018. I'm curious if they modified them again since you got your updated skid from them?

I've got 10" FJ80 Icon shocks in the rear with Superflex coils, and the SS adjustable panhard bar.

Yeah I'd be interested to see if you get the contact or not as well. It will only rub when you are flexing in one direction. Driver side tire stuffed is the side that causes the issues I believe. And you've got to be fully stuffed, like sitting on the bumpstop with the other tire in the air stuffed.

 

[phattyduck]

Just FYI - Shrockworks bolt-on sliders aren't something I could see pulling on and off as needed. Maybe there are other brands using different bolt-on methods, but the stick-nuts you feed inside the frame might be a pain in the ass to redo over and over.....I went bolt-on because I had no way or where to weld at the time. I could see moving them to another rig easily enough, though but I am just accepting the weight penalty.

I have the bolt-on Shrockworks sliders, but just welded them on. Use the bolt hole locations as plug welds...

-Charlie

 

[Endlessblockades]

I have the bolt-on Shrockworks sliders, but just welded them on. Use the bolt hole locations as plug welds...

-Charlie

I was thinking about doing that too. Anyway they are well secured in place if i do that one day.....

RE: Lil Skips.....Chris (AKA Lil Skip) just proactively emailed me to say that he is finished with a big job and can mod a skid and ship quickly. Good business practice....makes me want to buy even though I am stretched to the end of my means this pay period. Even with PayPal Pay-In-4. I know I keep hyping that service but it's a great interest-free way to pay for something over 2 months.