Full length rack build input request**

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I recently extended my rola rack with the insert and found that not only does the front portion lack any sort of support from the crossmembers but also flops around in high winds. I can't move it back any furter because it already inhibits the rear door from opening fully. I would have to say that watever design you come up with it should definitely be more flush to the roof then the rola. I would love to eliminate te crossbars completely but haven't figured out how to do that yet. A longer flush roof rack would definitely come in handy when transporting my kayak on the roof. Hope this helps! :peace:
 
you cant go too low or the pop up on the sun roof wont work. i know cause i have built several racks and one was a full length and i had this problem... also you have no support up front so it will bounce alot and stress the rear section of the roof, again speaking from experience. also the lower you go the harder it will be(read impossible) to wash the roof, look at my rack that i have now, i have small arms and still have a hard time washing the roof without taking the rack off(PITA for a wash job). just my .02
 
I am definately interested. I like the look of the stealthy close to the roof look. How much would one cost to make?
 
dunno, in process right now, took me over an hour just to set the jig up. trying to match the slight curve of the roof. i'll post a pic when i get the rails done and welded up, and out of the jig...
 
out of the jig: next time i'll add a touch more contour to the jig but i think it flows very well with the roofline. still need to finish welding, add some floor supports and the expanded metal.

IMAG0157.jpg~original

IMAG0158.jpg~original
 
A rack isn't on my radar for quite a while, but when I get one, if this is comparable to the long BajaRack in price, I'd have to go with this one. It looks great.

Nice work whitswelder!
 
well done, it looks very nice, i wish i had a tube bender. are you using a CNC bender or just a standard hydraulic bender? if you can add more arch side to side as well as front to back, i see one of your cross bars touching to roof. but i do like the rack
 
It's a jd2 model 3, its hydraulic if you consider the blood in my arm lol. Great tool to have though, dies are expensive which sucks and they never go on sale. Also have the Jd2 notchmaster tube notcher which is light years better than my old horror freight notcher.
 
what metal are you using? Diameter and thickness?

It looks great. i was thinking of doing around the same design but making the bottom bars attach to the roof like the FJ roof rack.
 
I was going to use .065 1" but my order hadn't shown up yet, so I got .083. A tad heavier and a smidge stronger but I'll use the 065 in the future. It builds out plenty strong.
 
That rack looks great!

I've spent a lot of time messing with the 4runner Gobi rack on MillerPKA's rig. I really liked how it had a support for the front, Gobi put a 3m type of tape under that support to hold it, but when we installed it we actually didnt pull the tape off, it planted and was firm by itself. Also the Gobi had a metal grate that acted as floor for the rack, have you thought about implementing that idea?

Im very interested in this rack, if you decide to produce this, I'd be happy to drive down and pick one up! Good luck :cheers:
 
thank you and yes i plan to use the expanded sheet metal also (mesh). i have an idea for the front supports that doesnt involve adhesive, im thinking maybe foam or rubber pads that would "grip" the paint just fine and as rigid as the rack already is, once done i cant imagine the front being floppy in the least.
 
Good stuff!!! I dig it... I'd be curious to know how high it sits off the roof when it's all said and done, maybe a fair way to do that would be to make a printable template we could tape to the leading edge of our roofs and that'd be the max height. Probably complicating matters, but that's what I tend to do! :)

Any advantage to using couplers instead of a simple butt joint? Is it safe to assume the expanded metal would be used above the tubing rather than below?

the kid - Good info about being able to clean the roof. I wouldn't have thought about that. Perhaps a decent solution would be to vinyl wrap the roof. It would help mitigate paint issues from not being able to clean it, limb pinstripes, and of course bird etching.
 
couplers are fugly, and typically, the weld material (wire) is stronger than the steel its holding together. i like to butt weld, if the weld is supporting weight, i'll put a slug inside. if its a show-piece, i'll grind it down and make it disappear. for the most part, once finished with paint or powder or whatever, they're no big deal. the expanded metal will be on top of the floor supports and the installed height, at it lowest point will be just off the roof, 1/8-1/4". for washing concerns, a pressure or power washer will blow stuff out of any nooks and crannies pretty well. but if you choose, a big piece of vinyl would be a simple way to go.
 
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