Full length rack build input request**

A lot, simply put. I don't have leverage with any shipping company but have found great rates through southeastern freight. So folks in the southeast are looking at around 90 and out side of that I would have to call and check. They tack on a flat 80 if they go into a residential area, so its best to pick up from a local terminal. If anyone has connections or preferred carriers I'm happy to hear about them.
 
Whitson Metalworks said:
A lot, simply put. I don't have leverage with any shipping company but have found great rates through southeastern freight. So folks in the southeast are looking at around 90 and out side of that I would have to call and check. They tack on a flat 80 if they go into a residential area, so its best to pick up from a local terminal. If anyone has connections or preferred carriers I'm happy to hear about them.
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Pricey, but it is what it is. GB may help here to spread out the costs for shipping. SoCal!
 
Whitson Metalworks said:
I'm working on the wind fairing right now, I had no idea how much a sheet of aluminum costs! So I'll probly work with steel, and being a small piece its a very small weight difference. I think the front mounts look good and that theyll work great. Being that the only option for attaching is adhesives (unless folks want to drill holes...) design choices are limited. My goal with these mounts was to not have a big piece of angle iron taped to the roof, which would be unsightly if you wanted to take the rack off for a time. Also, I don't really mean to go after anyone, just trying to give an option for champaign loving beer drinkers out there lol. There really aren't affordable full length rack options out there.
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If you want this to be a packaged thing I'm thinking maybe you should check out these wind fairing sites or Thule, etc. that offer a variety of sizes. Find the one that best suits it, figure out how best to adapt it to the rack and boom..full set up. The material and design will really complete an already stout system.

Also if I were you I'd really make some front brackets. It is pretty sturdy for sure, but any sort of front load or heavy altogether will put undue stress on your channel mounts. The fronts are there to absorb that excess front pressure, and in my opinion completes the look and that you expect to see with that caliber setup.
 
Im afraid if I spend 70-100 bucks on a fairing I wont be able to tack that onto the cost of the rack, and I can't really absorb any more costs before the racks dip into bad business territory, time and labor wise.

Also, are you suggesting front brackets in addition to the front supports I have pictured?
 
i finally came up with something to try. I gave up on building something like the inno or other commercial products since i cant afford the aluminum sheet to mess with. this shape works great and i'll remake it out of maybe black or smoked acrylic when i can find a supplier. i planned on using some edge guard on the base but my paint is far from pretty so i slapped it on as is. if the fairing is something everyone would want on a rack all the time i would weld in tabs so it can be attached with small bolts/nuts. i sorta like the clear aspect of it, i wonder if you could run lights behind it without issue? keep in mind im trying to keep costs low, to keep the rack an affordable option.
IMAG0184.jpg~original
 
what about with the sunroof open? I think that fairing would cut down on a ton of noise..

My rack I built was super loud with the sunroof open and it left my sunroof useless at high speed.
 
I ran it before and after and the difference is night and day, no fairing-loud, fairing-no noise at all. My sunroof is fubar'd right now so I cant verify but I'm sure its totally reasonable. As soon as I figure out why it wont open I'll post results.
 
Forgive me if I missed it, but what do you have planned for rear light mounts. I see it appears the rear top and bottom bars are lined up vertically so they couldn't be mounted to the bottom tube and be inboard of that bottom tube. If there were light tabs added to the bottom tube, would the rear hatch open without hitting the lights/light tabs?
 
It would depend on the light you wanted to run. Led is the new wave and everything is getting smaller and smaller so even on the outside you'd have a few inches before anything hits. Just way too many lighting options to build in one type of mount so its up to the end user more or less.
 
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