Getting my 4runner armored

S

sab568

New member
Hey all,

I have a 2008 4runner V8 Sport that is going to get armored. Ever since I got the truck I've been disappointed with the brakes. Now that I live in Venezuela (lots of mountains) things have gotten worse and I use the transmission to slow down the truck a lot!. I've been trying to find some information using the search function about a good break upgrade since the truck is going to get a bit heavier now, but I don't seem to find any concrete information.

I was thinking of just getting some upgraded pads like EBC green with my stock rotors (the truck only has 11k miles) to see how that works. Is there something more I should do? Do rotors make that big of a difference? There's going to be approximately 420 LBS added to the car. Any and all information will be MUCH appreciated.

TIA.
 
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StopTech makes a kit. Member on here that goes by the name of SkylineGTRacer has them. You'd have to PM him but I believe the kit for the FJ Cruiser works on the 4runner.

EDIT: Can you elaborate on what "armor" you runner is getting. Are we talking skid plates or bullet proof glass?
 
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sab568 said:
Hey all,

I have a 2008 4runner V8 Sport that is going to get armored. Ever since I got the truck I've been disappointed with the brakes. Now that I live in Venezuela (lots of mountains) things have gotten worse and I use the transmission to slow down the truck a lot!. I've been trying to find some information using the search function about a good break upgrade since the truck is going to get a bit heavier now, but I don't seem to find any concrete information.

I was thinking of just getting some upgraded pads like EBC green with my stock rotors (the truck only has 11k miles) to see how that works. Is there something more I should do? Do rotors make that big of a difference? There's going to be approximately 420 LBS added to the car. Any and all information will be MUCH appreciated.

TIA.
Click to expand...

I would be very careful about how much weight you add to the truck. I work for the government and we run fully armored suburbans. Despite brake upgrades, in the mountain they are horrible. The weight is so much that even with engine braking the brakes fade and finally give out forcing you to stop on the road (our better trained drivers that truly understand the issue can minimize this but it is a common problem).

I would upgrade the brakes - this thread is a start - and then only armor where you really need it. I'd do the driver's door and window and put Kevlar in the back of the drivers seat. The same for the passenger side. I wouldn't do the windshield on the assumption that they are going to try and stop you at a check point and you can slow like you intend to stop and then run it. Any fire you take would be coming from the sides and rear. This is with the assumption that you don't need to worry about IEDs.

The thing to remember is in hot climates like Venezuela armored glass only lasts a few years before it starts to de-laminate and armored windshield are never quite right as far as visibility. Headaches due to eyestrain are a common complaint.
 
Asmara said:
I would be very careful about how much weight you add to the truck. I work for the government and we run fully armored suburbans. Despite brake upgrades, in the mountain they are horrible. The weight is so much that even with engine braking the brakes fade and finally give out forcing you to stop on the road (our better trained drivers that truly understand the issue can minimize this but it is a common problem).

I would upgrade the brakes - this thread is a start - and then only armor where you really need it. I'd do the driver's door and window and put Kevlar in the back of the drivers seat. The same for the passenger side. I wouldn't do the windshield on the assumption that they are going to try and stop you at a check point and you can slow like you intend to stop and then run it. Any fire you take would be coming from the sides and rear. This is with the assumption that you don't need to worry about IEDs.

The thing to remember is in hot climates like Venezuela armored glass only lasts a few years before it starts to de-laminate and armored windshield are never quite right as far as visibility. Headaches due to eyestrain are a common complaint.
Click to expand...

lol I bet the OP is just talking about bumpers
 
Asmara said:
I would be very careful about how much weight you add to the truck. I work for the government and we run fully armored suburbans. Despite brake upgrades, in the mountain they are horrible. The weight is so much that even with engine braking the brakes fade and finally give out forcing you to stop on the road (our better trained drivers that truly understand the issue can minimize this but it is a common problem).

I would upgrade the brakes - this thread is a start - and then only armor where you really need it. I'd do the driver's door and window and put Kevlar in the back of the drivers seat. The same for the passenger side. I wouldn't do the windshield on the assumption that they are going to try and stop you at a check point and you can slow like you intend to stop and then run it. Any fire you take would be coming from the sides and rear. This is with the assumption that you don't need to worry about IEDs.

The thing to remember is in hot climates like Venezuela armored glass only lasts a few years before it starts to de-laminate and armored windshield are never quite right as far as visibility. Headaches due to eyestrain are a common complaint.
Click to expand...



It’s NIJ 3, (about 180 kilos of weight) pretty good for any none long barreled weapon and fairly standard here in Venezuela. All transparent armor is being done by Glassek (best company for this in Colombia). I've had previous experience with this glass company and I’ve seen that their glass holds up pretty well to Venezuela’s climate. Thanks for the information though!

I'm not worried about the weight as I’ve driven a few friends armored (or bullet proof to clear that up) 4runners, Grand Cherokees, Explorers and they ride perfectly... but none of them have had the breaks upgraded. They just run through more pads than usual. I'm a bit more of an aggressive driver than them and would just really like more pedal feel and better (shorter) braking.

From what I read in the link recommended by Asmara I'm on the right track, get better pads, and don’t mess with the disks especially since the SE has the larger disks upfront already. So I'm back to my original question. What do you guys recommend? Brand, model, etc. and why.
 
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For what its worth, I would use extra caution braking when in reverse. I have found that when I back out of steep driveways and the like that my brakes are pretty woeful (and I have the SE brakes) I can only imagine how another chunk of weight would affect it. My 2 cents... Good luck.
 
I have a V8 Sport that has 338mm (339mm? I forget) front rotors. I have Hawk LTS brake pads and stainless steel brake lines on all four corners. For the front rotors, I went with DBA slotted rotors. There's been some debate on whether or not you can get the rotors hot enough to benefit from the slots. However, I haul ass up & down the mountains of Colorado, including the peaks and valleys between my house and work every day, and I always have a firm pedal and no fade. The rotors were the most expensive part (around $250USD for the pair), but I doubt everything else cost me more than $300USD.
 
When it comes to brakes how much are you willing to spend? If you want a mild increase get SS brake line's, heavier compound pads (I run carbotech xp12), and DOT 4 fluid. You have the sport so you should have the bigger rotors. If you want the best get 18in rims of your choice and get a 14in stoptech kit.
 
SkylineGTRracer said:
When it comes to brakes how much are you willing to spend? If you want a mild increase get SS brake line's, heavier compound pads (I run carbotech xp12), and DOT 4 fluid. You have the sport so you should have the bigger rotors. If you want the best get 18in rims of your choice and get a 14in stoptech kit.
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i'll spend what ever is necesary to get the brake feel i want. at the same time though i dont want to buy something i really dont need. thanks for the info on the ss lines and the fluid. those i believe i can find here.

i read around a little more and found the discussion about break dust and ceramic pads. what would you guys say is a good compromise in performance and controllable break dust.
 
zimdba said:
I have a V8 Sport that has 338mm (339mm? I forget) front rotors. I have Hawk LTS brake pads and stainless steel brake lines on all four corners. For the front rotors, I went with DBA slotted rotors. There's been some debate on whether or not you can get the rotors hot enough to benefit from the slots. However, I haul ass up & down the mountains of Colorado, including the peaks and valleys between my house and work every day, and I always have a firm pedal and no fade. The rotors were the most expensive part (around $250USD for the pair), but I doubt everything else cost me more than $300USD.
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this is exactly the type of information im looking for!! thank you so much for your input.
 
What kind of armoring are you going for?

Are you using cermaic plating or Kevlar sheets in the door panels? (is there a commercially availible shear thickening material avalible to you?) Is your bulletproof glass very thick? Can you make it still go up and down? (I know that is unlikely, but I'm always surprised by things we manage these days) Are you armoring the underside against IEDs? If so, how are you going about it? Is the vehicle being prepared against EMP? (Shame how research into this slowed drastically after the Cold War, but the threat is very real and very dangerous in our modern world...) What are you goals with the vehicle? Personal protection, transport duty, VIP escort? Will the vehicle be expected to ram or force its way through walls, vehicles, objects? You may need to change and or remove the SRS system in response. The braking system may need to be upgraded. What kind of tires are you using? How are you protecting the engine bay against anti-material munitions?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have always been intrigued with the idea of armoring my 4Runner. Those are the miminum considerations that come to MY mind when I think of armoring my vehicle and since you're actually doing it I figured I'd pick your brain on your ideas/decisions on what you went with to get a perspective.

:)
 
BlackWorksInc said:
What kind of armoring are you going for?

Are you using cermaic plating or Kevlar sheets in the door panels? (is there a commercially availible shear thickening material avalible to you?) Is your bulletproof glass very thick? Can you make it still go up and down? (I know that is unlikely, but I'm always surprised by things we manage these days) Are you armoring the underside against IEDs? If so, how are you going about it? Is the vehicle being prepared against EMP? (Shame how research into this slowed drastically after the Cold War, but the threat is very real and very dangerous in our modern world...) What are you goals with the vehicle? Personal protection, transport duty, VIP escort? Will the vehicle be expected to ram or force its way through walls, vehicles, objects? You may need to change and or remove the SRS system in response. The braking system may need to be upgraded. What kind of tires are you using? How are you protecting the engine bay against anti-material munitions?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have always been intrigued with the idea of armoring my 4Runner. Those are the miminum considerations that come to MY mind when I think of armoring my vehicle and since you're actually doing it I figured I'd pick your brain on your ideas/decisions on what you went with to get a perspective.

:)
Click to expand...

Hahaha nothing like that.... I'm not going into a war zone, no IED's, EMP's, Etc. Just your basic nij 3 protection with 24mm glass and kevlar. If you have any curiosity about the armor Google it. It really is just for my everyday protection... Unfortunetely there are way too many guns out in the street where i live.

Back on topic though... Anybody else out there with some opinion on better braking performance for my 4runner.

BTW the front windows go half way down like its specced for this armor level :)
 
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