Help, brake pads replaced but bleeding issues.

[toy-runner]

i would consider trying to find a way of testing that cylinder first, think about this....


you walk into thier shop for a brake bleed, $152
they come back and say they can't get pressure to the rears and need to take everything apart for $400 more....
you tell them you don't want to pay the $400 and you will take your truck somewhere else....
they say "we know what's wrong with it, master cylinder" $1400 and we can fix that for you....

see something fishy here? if they knew it was the master cylinder in the first place why where they trying to charge you $400 to diagnosis the problem? why wouldn't that have just came straight back and said, "can't get pressure to the rears we think the master cylinder took a dump and that's a $1400 repair." why even try to charge you that $400 in the first place?

i did the same this you did man and i don't think my master cylinder took a dump on me, i snapped a brake line on my last pad swap and had to replace it, i managed to bleed my brakes enough to work but i still got a cel on, so i went out yesterday and bought the mightyvac thing mentioned in here ($34.99 from harbour freight) and am going to have a go an bleeding them later this week to sort them out right.

my point being is i would take everything the stealership said and throw it out the window at this point, as you don't know how valid their assessment is
at this point, were they being honest with you about the damage or were they just trying to keep their doors open on your dime? i don't know about our runner but i know you can usually test the master cylinder with a vacuum tester but again i'm not sure how you would go about that on our trucks. good luck man and i hope you get out of this a bit cheaper, also look at junk yards for a used one, master cylinders don't fail everyday in our trucks so find a used one from a junky yard maybe a good bet

Before I went to pick up the car today, I received a call from one of the service agents at TOYOTA, he told me that the Mechanic wanted to replace the ABS Pump Assembly ($1500) and M.C.($1400). I'm like, No way, I don't have that type of cash right now. And that's just for parts.

The mechanic told me that I'd have to replace both of the parts and not just one or the other....is it true?

Problem: The mechanic said that he can't get the ABS Pump Ass. to shut off. They need it to shut off in order to bleed the rears. Also, it's throwing out these two codes....M.C. and Pump Assembly(accumilator) I believe.

So wut do you guys think?

 

[toy-runner]

I've tried the manual way of pumping the brakes 40 times to get the ABS pump to stop, but it keeps buzzing....has anyone else had this problem? And how do you make this thing stop pumping???

 

[theizzardking]

I've tried the manual way of pumping the brakes 40 times to get the ABS pump to stop, but it keeps buzzing....has anyone else had this problem? And how do you make this thing stop pumping???

the techs are trying to rape you there, here's what i would do

1. pull the fuse for the abs to kill the pump
2.bleed rear brakes and MC
3.check abs sensors for dirt, they are magnets and can pick up bits of iron from the road and cause the pump to be engaged all the time.
4. if sensors are clean and showing proper voltage then suggest abs pump replacement
5. if MC fails to bleed then suggest replacement of MC

your brakes should work fine without the abs, most wheelers will pull the abs fuse when on the trail or even make a toggle switch for abs, the abs buzzing and mc problems are the same but not necessarily together if that makes any sense.

find a good shade tree guy around you or someone from the forum to show you how to do these things, neither one is very hard and your looking at saving over 3K in repairs (how much did you pay for the truck btw?) that dealership sounds pretty crooked to me, or the tech don't know whats up or they are just trying to get you to throw parts at it until it's fixed....

did you ask for a sheet showing their diagnostic work? i think a dealership would do that, you know a sheet saying this is what we did that brought us to the conclusion that every major piece in your braking system took a dump at once, also from being on this forum for a while i haven't seen to many people have a MC go out on them, the ABS problem is more common though, that said i would look at a junk yard for a MC on one of these, sure you'd have to bleed the brakes again (fun!) but it's a fairly simple install and you'll save a lot of money doing that way.

you really need to find someone local to help you..sorry i can;t really help much more then this, at this point thats all i can suggest.

 

[toy-runner]

the techs are trying to rape you there, here's what i would do

1. pull the fuse for the abs to kill the pump
2.bleed rear brakes and MC
3.check abs sensors for dirt, they are magnets and can pick up bits of iron from the road and cause the pump to be engaged all the time.
4. if sensors are clean and showing proper voltage then suggest abs pump replacement
5. if MC fails to bleed then suggest replacement of MC

your brakes should work fine without the abs, most wheelers will pull the abs fuse when on the trail or even make a toggle switch for abs, the abs buzzing and mc problems are the same but not necessarily together if that makes any sense.

find a good shade tree guy around you or someone from the forum to show you how to do these things, neither one is very hard and your looking at saving over 3K in repairs (how much did you pay for the truck btw?) that dealership sounds pretty crooked to me, or the tech don't know whats up or they are just trying to get you to throw parts at it until it's fixed....

did you ask for a sheet showing their diagnostic work? i think a dealership would do that, you know a sheet saying this is what we did that brought us to the conclusion that every major piece in your braking system took a dump at once, also from being on this forum for a while i haven't seen to many people have a MC go out on them, the ABS problem is more common though, that said i would look at a junk yard for a MC on one of these, sure you'd have to bleed the brakes again (fun!) but it's a fairly simple install and you'll save a lot of money doing that way.

you really need to find someone local to help you..sorry i can;t really help much more then this, at this point thats all i can suggest.

Thanks theizzardking. I just paid them the $152 bucks that we initially agreed on, which was the bleeding process.

The mechanic told me that they would have to replace the ABS Pump Assembly($1500) along with the M.C($1300).. And that they both would have to be replace because you can't do one or the other. Hmmm...sounds very fishy.

My car is still siting right now, first thing I might do is try to get that ABS pump to stop, then try to bleed the system again. I guess I'm gonna have to pull a fuse.

I didn't ask for a sheet showing the diagnostic work. I was going to ask for it and talk to the mechanic that worked on my car, but he was at lunch when I went to pick up the vehicle, and I didn't wanna wait an extra 30 mins for him to get back.

I paid $9699 for my truck 1 year ago with 96km miles.

I'm gonna try to mess with it on Friday and give you some updates....thanks buddy

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

Have you looked at the factory service manual?

There is quite a bit of info in it about the abs, vsc, trac system and how to test and diagnose things.

 

[toy-runner]

Have you looked at the factory service manual?

There is quite a bit of info in it about the abs, vsc, trac system and how to test and diagnose things.

When I purchased the vehicle it did not come with the factory service manual. But I just picked up a Haynes manual and I will be looking into it some more.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Read this: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/repair.html Much better than Hayes.

I'd still hold out for a used MC from a junkyard, and then see if they will install it.

 

[toy-runner]

Read this: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/repair.html Much better than Hayes.

I'd still hold out for a used MC from a junkyard, and then see if they will install it.

Thanks Caesar....is this manual for a 1996?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Nope, it is for a 2002, but it uses the same MC/ABS setup as your 2001. All are in PDF.

I am rooting for ya, but I will say a friend's father who drove a Lexus GS300 (I think) that had the MC/ABS for the VSC and had some sort of problem with the MC. Back in 07 it was a $2400 fix with new parts. He waited for two months before one arrived at a junkyard. Bought it for I think $250~$350, had Lexus install it, and gave the car to his daughter, my friend's sister, who is driving it still today, and has put an easy 50,000 miles on it since without any brake issues that I know of.

 

[toy-runner]

Nope, it is for a 2002, but it uses the same MC/ABS setup as your 2001. All are in PDF.

I am rooting for ya, but I will say a friend's father who drove a Lexus GS300 (I think) that had the MC/ABS for the VSC and had some sort of problem with the MC. Back in 07 it was a $2400 fix with new parts. He waited for two months before one arrived at a junkyard. Bought it for I think $250~$350, had Lexus install it, and gave the car to his daughter, my friend's sister, who is driving it still today, and has put an easy 50,000 miles on it since without any brake issues that I know of.

Thanks Caesar, I saw the 2002 on the manual also, so I was hoping that it was the manual for the 2002 since 01-02 are the same. Now, I'm going to print them out.

Geez, I've called around at certain junkyards but haven't been able to get ahold of a Master Cylinder...but really don't know if I should replace the ABS Pump Assembly first because the damn thing won't stop pumping.

 

[NOT ME OR SOMEBODY]

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

[t4r4life]

OP next time you do anything ask first doesnt hurt and in this case would save you a whole of of headache

 

[toy-runner]

OP next time you do anything ask first doesnt hurt and in this case would save you a whole of of headache

Sure will, I've done plenty of brake jobs before. But these new vehicles now-a-days are loaded with tons of sensors. I should've been aware of that. I'm too old school. Thanks

 

[YotaZach85]

I would start by pulling the ABS fuse, re-bleed and see where that gets you. Try to just gravity bleed it at first, crack your bleeders open and leave them open for a few minutes, just let them drip for a while but keep the master full while it drips. If you don't get any dripping from the rear then you definitely have a massive air lock in the system somewhere.

Future reference, the calipers don't have to come off to change the pads, and you can also get away with leaving the line hooked up if you need to pull the calipers off to change rotors, just be careful bending the line.

 

[toy-runner]

So....it seems like the air pressure in the ABS ACCUMILATOR has been released and now there is no pressure in the Accumilator. Is there anyway to put the air (nitrogen I believe) back into the accumilator? The ABS module will not stop buzzing. I found out that we released one of the valves on the master cylinder (some pressured air came out) and that might be the problem as to why the ABS accumilator will not stop buzzing.