Help deciding between 3rd gens

[b4runner86]

Plan on looking at a couple different 3rd gens this weekend. Have to travel to larger city few hours away to look at them, so want to come equip with knowledge to choose.

The first is private party 1 owner 2000 sr5 with ~90k miles, says spent most of life in arizona, now in midwest but rust free. From pics looks clean, and owner lives in a very affluent neighborhood, so think it would been well maintained. The ad says recently replaced brakes , and power steering. Doesnt mention timing belt so im guessing still original. From pic, it doesnt have elocker button. He is asking ~ 7k. Prob get it bought for 6-6500.

The second one is a 99 limited, with elocker. 2 owner @ a small dealership. Has 142k miles, no idea on condition of underbody/rust. Asking roughly same ~7k. I know the 99 elocker is very desirable, as it also has multi mode?

However as much as I would love to offroad the hell out of it, in reality probably will only see light to moderate offroad conditions 4-6 times a year, but will probably see lot of ice and snow. But still cool to have capabilities. Another consideration is, I have the cash to purchase outright, but I also have qualified for a crazy low autoloan rate of 1.49% apr through credit union (essentially free money w/ inflation). Couldn't finance the 142k vehicle due to mileage.

So I guess my question is, which one would you guys try to go with. If for same price would you rather have a 2000 sr5, no elocker @ 90k miles. Or 99 limited with elocker @ 142k miles. Also could finance the 2000 @ 1.49% apr, but would have to buy the 99 outright.

Thanks in advance, excited about becoming a new 3rd gen T4r owner and member of this community!

 

[b4runner86]

Ok after re reading my post, probably a dumb question. Best route is the 2000 sr5. I can finance it, save some money upfront, and then retrofit elocker later for around 500 if I wanted?

But not all the 2000 sr5/sports have multi mode tho right?

 

[redrunner02]

200 Sr5 seems like a good choice

 

[TOPSECRETTUNDRA]

I think you answered your question. As for the financing is concerned, it sucks paying interest if you don't have to. I got 1.9 on my 08 back in 2010 when I could of paid for ir outright. Now I look at the interest I pay each month which is less than $40 but still more than I pull in from my money market account.

I am not qualified to give financial advice by any means but if you can buy it outright, I would do that.

Either way check out both, I had the e-locker on my 00 Limited and attempted to use it once when I was stuck in the snow. It didnt help in 1.5' of snow. Lol

 

[blonde1boarder]

Would be a whole lot easier to have the elocker already on there. Wish mine had one...

 

[Stick Figure]

That little easy button has saved me a couple of times off road, or at least kept me from having to take a run at something or actually get out of the truck to figure out a solution. BUT like its been said a lot easier/cheaper to add a rear locker than it is to take the mileage off of EVERY component of the vehicle. I still would look at both if you can, lower mileage doesn't always mean its been taken care of and in better shape than a higher mileage counterpart.

As far as financing it I would finance if you either need help building more credit, (guessing thats not the case since you found a pretty good deal for this) or if buying it outright would leave you with zero savings. Out of 60 some vehicles I have owned my 4Runner and IS300 were the absolute best for taking a beating and never needing major work, however anything can go wrong. It would suck if you needed a transmission or something major and had to pay credit card interest rates while you were paying it off as apposed to the lower car loan % because you spent everything getting the vehicle.

 

[b4runner86]

Right, Im thinking the same thing. Another way to think of it is limited trim with elocker and multimode worth ~50k more mileage? With the life span of these 4runners Im not sure.

As far as financing, I think even at 1.9% you should always finance. Yes if you look at the nominal rate you are paying interest each month. However, with inflation you are probably getting charged a negative real interest rate ( interest - rate of inflation). In other words they are paying you to finance because #1 your purchasing power will decrease faster over term of loan vs interest charges incurred, and #2 you still have the cash to use to potentially earn a higher rate investing elsewhere. But on 7k @ 1.49% over say 24 months the interest charges are pretty nil .

 

[PitbullRescuer]

Right, Im thinking the same thing. Another way to think of it is limited trim with elocker and multimode worth ~50k more mileage? With the life span of these 4runners Im not sure.

As far as financing, I think even at 1.9% you should always finance. Yes if you look at the nominal rate you are paying interest each month. However, with inflation you are probably getting charged a negative real interest rate ( interest - rate of inflation). In other words they are paying you to finance because #1 your purchasing power will decrease faster over term of loan vs interest charges incurred, and #2 you still have the cash to use to potentially earn a higher rate investing elsewhere. But on 7k @ 1.49% over say 24 months the interest charges are pretty nil .

Guessing they're both 4WD? Did you car fax either of them? I'd be concerned if either has been hit and/or painted in the past. For the private owner one, I'd ask them upfront what records they have since you're traveling to look at it.

Other things to consider: tires, ball joints/tie rod ends/radiator.

Honestly, 50K miles doesn't mean a damn thing on these trucks. And honestly, if the 142K truck had more maintenance than the 90K truck that will need it,mthe 142K truck would be the better deal.

Post a link to both of them. We could probably all give you more input if we could see the trucks and the descriptions.

 

[vtechadam]

If you can get the VIN #'s I can run a free car fax for you too. I say finance, @ such a cheap rate, keep your cash for something else, 6K financed is what, $175/mo for 3years. That rate on a now 13yr old truck is a gift.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Honestly, 50K miles doesn't mean a damn thing on these trucks. And honestly, if the 142K truck had more maintenance than the 90K truck that will need it,mthe 142K truck would be the better deal.

If money isn't the issue then get the low mileage truck. IMO, 50k mileage is a big deal because it is 50k of major wear and tear on the car.

I may be bitter because I suffered a cracked head CYL #3 ($2700 for new heads) in 2011 at 199,800 miles. I am not alone, while there are outliers, it is not "uncommon" for a top end rebuild to be necessary between 175k - 225k miles on the Toyota V6.

Older cars have issues, and Toyota is no different but at least Toyota will probably make it to 200k without major issues unlike a FORD / Chevy / Dodge. But don't confuse that reliability with "will last forever" because they don't.

So try to get as low of miles as possible. :surfer:

 

[b4runner86]

Looking at another one. 2000 Limited 4x4 w/ locker. Has ~90k on it, 2 owner. Looks to be dealer serviced, tho I dont see timing belt service.

Dealer is asking like ~12300, I dont think you pay more than 10, possibly 10500. What do you guys think? Check out pics.

 

[downpour11]

Is there a date and mileage on the timing belt cover from when it was last done? 90k is about when you need to do a timing belt change though so maybe it's never been done.

 

[b4runner86]

I dont think it has been done yet. NADA is like 10250, I indicated 9k to the dealer w/o timing belt replacement. The runner is 3 hours from my house, so I havent seen it in person yet. Trying to feel out if I was close in price at all before making a trip to see it. At 9k the dealer acted like we were miles apart. I pointed out to him the NADA value, but dont know how much he really will come off 12,300. The way it feels is maybe to 11k.

Trying to get the boards help if they think thats too much, I know NADA and the like are not always a good indicator of actual market value. It does have rear locker.

 

[blizz86]

I dont think it has been done yet. NADA is like 10250, I indicated 9k to the dealer w/o timing belt replacement. The runner is 3 hours from my house, so I havent seen it in person yet. Trying to feel out if I was close in price at all before making a trip to see it. At 9k the dealer acted like we were miles apart. I pointed out to him the NADA value, but dont know how much he really will come off 12,300. The way it feels is maybe to 11k.

Trying to get the boards help if they think thats too much, I know NADA and the like are not always a good indicator of actual market value. It does have rear locker.

Go in with a set price, and slap down a check/cash for that much. If they don't go for it, do not seem sad and just leave. Keep on the look out!

 

[b4runner86]

I know it depends on local market, but trying to get a feel for what that price would be for most of you guys. Ultimately it is what I am comfortable with. 10.5k I think would be the # for me, what do you guys think?

 

[BlackCat914]

I know it depends on local market, but trying to get a feel for what that price would be for most of you guys. Ultimately it is what I am comfortable with. 10.5k I think would be the # for me, what do you guys think?

10.5k sounds like a good number.......if it was current on maintenance, which it's not. Use that as a barganing tool. You have a pretty good budget set, and you should have no trouble finding a VERY nice runner for that amount of money. I'd go in and tell them they're asking full NADA value for a truck that needs $800 worth of maint. right off the bat.

 

[b4runner86]

They are asking full KBB, probably a 2k spread in values NADA vs KBB. 10350 i beleive is what the NADA guide is saying. They got it on trade in Im sure, I bet they only paid 7 for it tops, that is probably a strech. Only thing is I kidna need to get into something asap.

I just dont want to make a 6 hour round trip :driving: for them to turn down my offer. Id be pissssseeed haha

 

[Tom P.]

You driving six hours and having to buy something asap might put you in a difficult negotiating position. Be careful.