HELP!!!! I cant get the strut to drop out!!!!

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

If I disconnect it and re-connect it, will that turn off the lights? Or does it need the codes cleared? And how can I determine if it is the wiring or the sensor? I'd like to know before I spend $100+ on a sensor that I may not need or may not work due to the possible bad wiring.

Just takes a multimeter and a few minutes of time. See instructions in this post:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/88578-help-vsc-trac-vsc-off-abs-lights.html#post771215

 

[dchild]

Ah ok, apparently that happens pretty often.
Read through here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/34115-swaybar-bushing-upgrade.html
a couple guys wrote about the same issue and how they used carriage bolts to remedy the issue.

This happened to me. I had to cut off the bolt with a sawzall, hot glue a magnet to some bailing wire and use that to fish out the nut using a nearby hole in the frame. To put in a carriage bolt use a wire to fish a string through the hole and back out of the frame, then tie the string to your carriage bolt and pull it through.

I don't recommend using stainless hardware to replace it since magnets don't hold stainless very well and if you lose the bolt in the frame it will be very hard to get it out without a magnet.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

If I disconnect it and re-connect it, will that turn off the lights? Or does it need the codes cleared? And how can I determine if it is the wiring or the sensor? I'd like to know before I spend $100+ on a sensor that I may not need or may not work due to the possible bad wiring.

Disconnecting and reconnecting it will not do anything if the issue is a broken wire. I would grab a multi-meter and just ohm the wires from the sensor plug to the next highest connector and make sure they read continuity.

The ABS system is a 1-trip monitor, meaning that it will set a DTC if it sees the issue once and it will turn the warning lamp on and change the DTC from "Current" to "History" (meaning a scanner will see that DTC set in the past, but it is not an issue currently and your lights on the dash will be off) once you drive a it a short while.

 

[brendan1026]

I started the front and got to the point of dropping the strut out to install the spacer. It WON'T budge!!!

Had the exact same issue with mine. They were seized in there good. Ended up spraying them with penetrating oil then using an air hammer to break them free and the struts just fell out.

 

[ARunner]

Instead of buying a whole new sensor, just splice the broken wire if that's what it turns out to be. I did that with satisfactory results until I could get a replacement in. In reality if you aren't picky, I suspect a mended harness would last a good long time.

 

[qikazel]

Thanks for everyone's help. I'll post back results when I get to the suggested fixes.

 

[Clermont]

I know it's been a while, can you please let me know what was the fix? I'm having the same problem where I can't get my strut assembly to drop out.

Thanks in advance.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I know it's been a while, can you please let me know what was the fix? I'm having the same problem where I can't get my strut assembly to drop out.

Thanks in advance.

If it's the top stuck to the metal of the chassis where the 3 nuts hold it you just have to beat on it to get the rust to let go. I used a big pry bar or something similar wedged in the upper area from the wheel side. Basically used it as a wedge. The first one took awhile until I figured out the best area for placement, the 2nd one took a minute or two. I left the nuts loose on the top so it wouldn't land on me.

 

[03SR58R3]

I know it's been a while, can you please let me know what was the fix? I'm having the same problem where I can't get my strut assembly to drop out.

Thanks in advance.

I had the same issue when I added spacers to my '03. After several hours of heating, beating and prying to no avail, I bought a good air hammer and using it to hit at the top of the strut, I had both sides knocked out in less than 5 minutes. Seriously. I kick myself for not having an air hammer sooner. It worked amazing for me. I'm 230 pounds and pretty stout, and no amount of beating and prying could overcome the rust hold that mine had. Hope this helps.

 

[yourfriendcasey]

second problem....Loosened one of the swap bar bolts and it just spins now. It seems as of there is a bolt INSIDE the frame that bolt screws into that has either broken loose from a spot weld or something. I have no idea how I will ever get that one tight again???????

This is a common issue, theres nuts in there that are tack-welded to the frame. You can either tap out the hole and use a larger bolt, or through-bolt through the frame- OR do what I did and just leave the front sway bar off. Not really needed as long as you have the rear. You'll get a bit better performance from your front suspension and better articulation off-road. Makes it truly 'IFS'.