Help! Stalls, won't restart for 10 minutes

steveog17

New member
Hello all,

I've searched the forums for help but haven't found anything like my issue so I'm hoping for some help. First the vehicle: 1997 3.4L automatic, Limited 4x4, 180,000 miles. New fuel pump, new fuel filter, new plugs (the right ones, not the Bosch), new t-belt, water pump, tensioner, idlers, etc.

I'm normally pretty capable, but this one has me completely stumped and the wife is starting to get pretty unhappy as she drives this car. So here's the issue, the vehicle starts and runs perfectly, MPG is normal. On warm/hot days (a/c in use) when the vehicle has been driven for more than 30-40 minutes, usually on the highway, it will randomly stall when coming to a stop, not every time, just when it thinks it will piss off the driver the most. The vehicle temp is always normal and there are never signs of any issue before it dies. It will always restart after 5-10 minutes, but that time is usually spent in the middle of traffic so it's pretty inconvenient. When it restarts it runs perfectly but will continue to randomly stall when coming to a stop. No codes, computer clear. Once it cools completely the vehicle starts and runs perfectly until the next lengthy drive which makes it a real pain to replicate and diagnose.

I originally thought this sounded like an IAC issue, so I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it and the IAC (replaced the gaskets) but on the next somewhat long drive the problem returned. I was going to replace the IAC but I just don't think that's the problem because the vehicle won't restart, even when I crack the throttle to bypass the IAC.

Any thoughts or directions to move in would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all and hope everyone's weekend goes well.
 
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this sounds like a similar issue i was having with my 99... except mine was under hard accleration or overtaking on a hot day on the highway... i changed the maf, tps plugs wires coils nothing.....so put the oem maf and tps and coils back on and returned them....
UNTIL, on a 1/4 tank of gas i dumped half of a seafoam "sf128" (its about a 1 gal container so 1/2g of seafoam) ran my tank til the light came on and down till it was reading on the "E" and filled up with premium(92oct here in HI) and it never stalled or hesitated till my girlfriend had to drive it to work for 3 weeks because her car was in need of repair....
she was running the low test (87) and the stalling came back... switched to 92 and ran a 16oz seafoam with the light on and stalling stopped...

never had a cel not saying it will fix your issue but it has mine, hope it helps

** oh btw when mine would stall it would fire back up if i gave it a little gas while cranking but stall if i let off **
 
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Thanks for the all the input everyone. Unfortunately I haven't had a single code throughout months of this issue going on. I've even driven it with a scanner hooked up and when the problem happens I still get nada in terms of codes. I'm hoping the fuel pump is okay as it's a new toyota unit that I installed about six months ago. I haven't checked the crank position sensor yet so that will likely be my next task. I'll post again soon with any new details. Thanks again.
 
When it stalls do you still have electrical power (ie radio, door chime, etc...)? The reason I ask is because my gmc 1500 is doing this and my stepdad tends to think its corrosion on the battery terminals causing it loss of power to the vehicle (as when mine dies I lose everything power for 5 -10 minutes then it all slowly starts to come back). I cleaned the battery connections right after it did it again tonight and when I hooked everything back up I was good to go again, so maybe he's right. My mechanice said he tends to think its in the plug that run to the fuel sensor (the plug connecting pins can go bad). I've thought it seems somewhat like vapor lock, but its done it with 1/4 tank and full tank so not sure if its vp lock or not. Good luck.
 
Did you ever figure out the solution here? i am having very similar issues and it’s getting to be a problem and happening more frequently. please let me know if you resolved this problem and how you did
 
Possible random major vacuum leak.
Possible defective fuel pump

I would route in a gas pressure valve at the fuel rail. So you can prove or disprove the fuel pump and injectors issues.
 
Yes, bad fuel pumps can do this. So can vapor lock. Loosen the fuel line & then have someon crank to see if you have fuel pressure (protect your eyes!).
 
Did you figure yours out I’m having same issue

Nope. Hasn’t popped up in a while, surprisingly. But didn’t drive my truck too much last summer. Previous summer I drove across country fully loaded inside, roof carrier, and a 300# dirt bike hanging off the hitch. First time it happened was driving from Vegas to Phoenix through MTNS in 120° heat. Stalled every 20 min of driving during daylight. Then once out of desert was fine. But in humid Midwest happened while pulling a trailer and a few other times randomly on fwy.

Thanks for the all the input everyone. Unfortunately I haven't had a single code throughout months of this issue going on. I've even driven it with a scanner hooked up and when the problem happens I still get nada in terms of codes. I'm hoping the fuel pump is okay as it's a new toyota unit that I installed about six months ago. I haven't checked the crank position sensor yet so that will likely be my next task. I'll post again soon with any new details. Thanks again.

Did you ever resolve this issue? I’m leaning toward faulty crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor. I did damage a camshaft sensor like 6 or seven years ago while doing the timing belt, but I tested the resistance and it checked-out, so I never thought twice about it. But now I’m thinking that may be the culprit. I think everything else would spit a code. Someone explained why these two can fail without producing cel and it made sense. I will look for the thread and post it if I find it
 
Nope. Hasn’t popped up in a while, surprisingly. But didn’t drive my truck too much last summer. Previous summer I drove across country fully loaded inside, roof carrier, and a 300# dirt bike hanging off the hitch. First time it happened was driving from Vegas to Phoenix through MTNS in 120° heat. Stalled every 20 min of driving during daylight. Then once out of desert was fine. But in humid Midwest happened while pulling a trailer and a few other times randomly on fwy.







Did you ever resolve this issue? I’m leaning toward faulty crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor. I did damage a camshaft sensor like 6 or seven years ago while doing the timing belt, but I tested the resistance and it checked-out, so I never thought twice about it. But now I’m thinking that may be the culprit. I think everything else would spit a code. Someone explained why these two can fail without producing cel and it made sense. I will look for the thread and post it if I find it
What happens if you pull a battery terminal off and put back on. Will it start?

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What happens if you pull a battery terminal off and put back on. Will it start?

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I didn’t try it. But it does crank just doesn’t fire. Also, I doubt it because there is no CEL or stored codes, so the truck doesn’t know anything is wrong. I would be willing to give it a shot next time. But I did clear codes and it didn’t do anything.
 
When this happens it’s usually a crank sensor. Very typical…..


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Have you experienced this before with these engines? State some facts or your personal experiences to backup your statements please!!

A while ago you chimed in and said that it was flooding from leaky injectors, which I am fairly certain would Throw a code and not sure why it would only happen in hot conditions. Seems like a shot in the dark kinda comment…
 
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Have you experienced this before with these engines? State some facts or your personal experiences to backup your statements please!!

A while ago you chimed in and said that it was flooding from leaky injectors, which I am fairly certain would Throw a code and not sure why it would only happen in hot conditions. Seems like a shot in the dark kinda comment…


It could flood from leaking injectors and cause a rich condition that that takes evaporation time to clear or it could be a bad crank sensor that gets hot and fails and when it cools off it will restart. You can’t always rely on the check engine light to tell you what to replace.

I’ve never had a bad crank sensor or bad injectors do this on a 3.4l sorry if you think I’m throwing random stuff out that’s not helping you.

Leaking injector on my 88 Daytona. Bad crank sensor on two Saturns.


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