High idle after cleaning throttle body

[19963.4lsr5]

I just cannot seem to get the TPS sensor positioned correctly. I gave up and called my shop to have them take a look at it, and they told me that I shouldn't have unscrewed the TPS (duh) and that I would have to replace the entire throttle body. Their cost is $1400 for a new TB.



So, I guess I'm going to start looking for good used TBs. Any suggestions? I don't mind ordering online, but I'm also in Los Angeles if anyone knows of a good place around to either take my truck or to buy this part.



Thanks for all the advice in this thread.

Is your throttle body drive by wire or is there a throttle cable hooked to the gas pedal? If your not drive by wire removing the TPS is no biggy. Also my TPS doesn't read 0% at idle on my 97. If I remember it's 9% or so.


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[octanejunkie]

Another complication is that Amazon won't ship fuel injectors to California for some reason ($90 for a set of 6) and I don't want to go to the shop or the dealer where they are quoting $150-180 per fuel injector.

Amazon sure will. What is the item #?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

It's hard for me to believe that you all of a sudden have 6 bad fuel injectors with a newer (in the last few years) fuel filter.

Unless the filter failed and sent debris down stream and clogged the inlet screens of all 6 injectors. Which is a stretch. It's something in common. But only real way to eliminate the fuel system is to check the pressure to see if it's time to look a pump or filter or pressure regulator. Other than that, the ICM could be at fault also.


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[gamefreakgc]

I just cannot seem to get the TPS sensor positioned correctly. I gave up and called my shop to have them take a look at it, and they told me that I shouldn't have unscrewed the TPS (duh) and that I would have to replace the entire throttle body. Their cost is $1400 for a new TB.

So, I guess I'm going to start looking for good used TBs. Any suggestions? I don't mind ordering online, but I'm also in Los Angeles if anyone knows of a good place around to either take my truck or to buy this part.

Thanks for all the advice in this thread.

Try a used one on Ebay. I used to sell them, I don't have one right now though. You can usually buy one with a return policy if it doesn't work for about $300.

They are only sold as a complete unit. I didn't want to tell you the replacement costs... but yeah they are the most expensive part on any Toyota 4Runner years 96-02, minus a whole engine or transmission.

Maybe next time take it easy, or get a copy of the FSM so you know what to clean or not clean.

 

[theirare]

Is your throttle body drive by wire or is there a throttle cable hooked to the gas pedal? If your not drive by wire removing the TPS is no biggy. Also my TPS doesn't read 0% at idle on my 97. If I remember it's 9% or so.


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It's drive by wire, so removing the TPS was a no-no for me and unfortunately I did it anyway. The TPS sensor that I have is 4-pin, not 3-pin like yours.

 

[theirare]

Amazon sure will. What is the item #?

I tried to order these to California and Amazon told me they couldn't do it:

https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Injectors-Toyota-4Runner-23250-62040/dp/B01N51YZJI

 

[theirare]

It's hard for me to believe that you all of a sudden have 6 bad fuel injectors with a newer (in the last few years) fuel filter.

Unless the filter failed and sent debris down stream and clogged the inlet screens of all 6 injectors. Which is a stretch. It's something in common. But only real way to eliminate the fuel system is to check the pressure to see if it's time to look a pump or filter or pressure regulator. Other than that, the ICM could be at fault also.


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How would I check the pressure in the fuel system? I don't mind taking it to the shop for that if it requires tools I don't have or are too expensive.

How do you test the ICM? Have you ever replaced that before?

I may be ordering the TB off eBay just to be safe anyway.

 

[theirare]

Try a used one on Ebay. I used to sell them, I don't have one right now though. You can usually buy one with a return policy if it doesn't work for about $300.

They are only sold as a complete unit. I didn't want to tell you the replacement costs... but yeah they are the most expensive part on any Toyota 4Runner years 96-02, minus a whole engine or transmission.

Maybe next time take it easy, or get a copy of the FSM so you know what to clean or not clean.

Yeah, lesson definitely learned. It looks like I am finding some TBs on eBay for between $200-300 with decent return policies in case they don't work.

At least I can save myself the labor costs! I do need to get a pdf of the FSM.

Do you know if anyone remanufactures these pieces or parts out the smaller pieces of the TB? Or is my (soon-to-be) old TB worthless now?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yeah, lesson definitely learned. It looks like I am finding some TBs on eBay for between $200-300 with decent return policies in case they don't work.

At least I can save myself the labor costs! I do need to get a pdf of the FSM.

Do you know if anyone remanufactures these pieces or parts out the smaller pieces of the TB? Or is my (soon-to-be) old TB worthless now?

What makes them so expensive is that you can't really do much with a broken TB from an 01-02, they don't sell any replacement parts. I have not heard of any rebuilds, since you can't test the throttle body without putting it on a vehicle and driving around.

 

[theirare]

Saturday morning update

A couple of days ago, I found a local guy on Craigslist parting out a 2002 4Runner with 180k miles. Luckily, he still had the throttle body and sold me that piece along with the top half of the plenum (which I didn't need) for $120.

I took the new TB off the plenum and put it in my truck this morning. It is running a lot better, but still idling high from a cold start and still struggling to stay on and hesitating when in the 600-700 RPM range.

I ordered OEM Toyota plug wires and will try those on Monday because the blue NGK ones I got just don't seem to want to stay clipped in. Maybe I got a bad batch, but I did see a YouTube video of someone who was having similar issues.

After the wires, I'll be trying a brand new OEM Toyota fuel filter. I also ordered a set of six fuel injectors for $75 (thanks eBay seller who will ship to California) and a new set of gaskets for the plenum for $19. Any tips on removing the plenum and installing those fuel injectors?

Also wanted to mention that I did replace my PCV with an Autozone part (waiting on the heavier duty OEM Toyota PCV in the mail) and ordered a new molded PCV hose because mine was cracking a bit near the PCV valve itself.

 

[octanejunkie]

An air leak at the TB gasket could cause your idle issue.

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[theirare]

Problem finally solved

I wanted to update this thread for future searchers. My multiple misfire issue was caused by a bad alternator and battery.

I ended up replacing the following parts:

1. MAF sensor
2. Spark plugs and wires
3. PCV valve and hose
4. Throttle body
5. Thin vacuum hose on top of the plenum
6. Fuel injectors (cleaned, calibrated, and tested)
7. Fuel pressure regulator
8. Fuel filter
9. Fuel pump and strainer
10. Fuel tank gasket
11. Alternator
12. Duralast Gold Battery
13. Battery connector and 10 gauge frame grounding wire

After replacing items 1-10 listed above, I was still having the misfire issue (P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306) and the engine was rumbling at low idle.

Items 1-5 were pretty standard (I had to get a replacement TB due to my own mistake). Items 6-10 were listed in the FSM. No where does it list alternator as a potential cause of the problem.

After replacing all of the fuel components listed above (items 6-10), it began to run stronger. At low idle (600-700RPM range) it was still sputtering, but the engine was no longer dying. So I am glad that I did replace those parts because the fuel injectors were not properly operating before cleaning and the fuel filter did not look very good either. The fuel strainer was also pretty brown after 16 years.

I thought to try the alternator after I finally found this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/237920-misfire-mystery-3.html

I bought a Harbor Freight multimeter and watched a couple of YouTube videos to figure out how to test for a failing alternator and battery. The fluctuating voltage (around 12.6 volts) while the car was running showed me it was a bad alternator. I also realized that my dimming headlights and other electronic components were a symptom of a failing alternator, and I had been ignoring that issue for a while.

When I finally looked at the alternator, I realized my next problem. The shop that I went to last year to replace all three belts forgot to replace the long screw, bolt, and nut that hold the bottom of the alternator in place and tension the alternator belt. The long top screw on the alternator and the pressure from the bottom alternator bracket were the only things holding the alternator in place and running that belt for over a year.

I bought a Duralast remanufactured alternator from Autozone and ordered the specialty screw, bolt, and nut from the dealer. The part numbers for those parts are:

16385-62020 - slider, fan belt adj
90119-08493 - bolt, w/wa
90179-08183 - nut

After replacing the alternator (don't forget to put some dielectric grease on the back connector), I used the screw, bolt, and nut to properly tension the alternator and alternator belt.

I then cleaned my leads and negative battery connector with a wire brush and some sandpaper and I replaced my positive battery connector with a new Duralast Gold zinc battery attachment.

After reading up on potential grounding issues, I realized that someone had long ago cut the frame grounding wire near the battery. So I cut some 10 gauge wire and crimped on some #10 leads and replaced that wire as well, which goes from the frame to the negative battery terminal.

I started her up and she has been running stronger than ever. I probably didn't need the fuel pressure regulator or the new fuel pump, but I am glad I did all that work. The fuel system is in top notch shape now!

 

[enapa]

I wanted to update this thread for future searchers. My multiple misfire issue was caused by a bad alternator and battery.

I ended up replacing the following parts:

1. MAF sensor
2. Spark plugs and wires
3. PCV valve and hose
4. Throttle body
5. Thin vacuum hose on top of the plenum
6. Fuel injectors (cleaned, calibrated, and tested)
7. Fuel pressure regulator
8. Fuel filter
9. Fuel pump and strainer
10. Fuel tank gasket
11. Alternator
12. Duralast Gold Battery
13. Battery connector and 10 gauge frame grounding wire

After replacing items 1-10 listed above, I was still having the misfire issue (P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306) and the engine was rumbling at low idle.

Items 1-5 were pretty standard (I had to get a replacement TB due to my own mistake). Items 6-10 were listed in the FSM. No where does it list alternator as a potential cause of the problem.

After replacing all of the fuel components listed above (items 6-10), it began to run stronger. At low idle (600-700RPM range) it was still sputtering, but the engine was no longer dying. So I am glad that I did replace those parts because the fuel injectors were not properly operating before cleaning and the fuel filter did not look very good either. The fuel strainer was also pretty brown after 16 years.

I thought to try the alternator after I finally found this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/237920-misfire-mystery-3.html

I bought a Harbor Freight multimeter and watched a couple of YouTube videos to figure out how to test for a failing alternator and battery. The fluctuating voltage (around 12.6 volts) while the car was running showed me it was a bad alternator. I also realized that my dimming headlights and other electronic components were a symptom of a failing alternator, and I had been ignoring that issue for a while.

When I finally looked at the alternator, I realized my next problem. The shop that I went to last year to replace all three belts forgot to replace the long screw, bolt, and nut that hold the bottom of the alternator in place and tension the alternator belt. The long top screw on the alternator and the pressure from the bottom alternator bracket were the only things holding the alternator in place and running that belt for over a year.

I bought a Duralast remanufactured alternator from Autozone and ordered the specialty screw, bolt, and nut from the dealer. The part numbers for those parts are:

16385-62020 - slider, fan belt adj
90119-08493 - bolt, w/wa
90179-08183 - nut

After replacing the alternator (don't forget to put some dielectric grease on the back connector), I used the screw, bolt, and nut to properly tension the alternator and alternator belt.

I then cleaned my leads and negative battery connector with a wire brush and some sandpaper and I replaced my positive battery connector with a new Duralast Gold zinc battery attachment.

After reading up on potential grounding issues, I realized that someone had long ago cut the frame grounding wire near the battery. So I cut some 10 gauge wire and crimped on some #10 leads and replaced that wire as well, which goes from the frame to the negative battery terminal.

I started her up and she has been running stronger than ever. I probably didn't need the fuel pressure regulator or the new fuel pump, but I am glad I did all that work. The fuel system is in top notch shape now!

Glad to hear it all worked out. And honestly I don't think it is a big deal that you replaced all the other parts that might not have been the issue. Peace of mind knowing they are all brand new.