Higher RPM Tach gauge...

The 3RZ's can support crazy amounts of boost. 500 HP at the crank pushing 8K RPM's really isn't that far off. That's about ~425 RWHP.

For example, my engine puts out somewhere around 270 RWTQ at 5500 RPM's. That's about 282 RWHP. If I was to raise the redline from 5500 to 8000 RPM's, the same engine would make 411 RWHP assuming I can keep the same torque levels (which a S/C can't). HP is just a calculation of Torque and 5252 RPM.

I see... But... Why not do all of that to the 6 cylinder for smoother torque and ever more performance?
 
I hope so. Plan on around 20-25psi at 500-500whp.

ITBs!? Damn nice! Planning to do an all motor build with them?

Which stage two cams did you end up going with?
Should be no joke. I know 5 psi through my stock motor was enough to shred trannies and diffs like butter. I was never easy on em that's for sure. Yep all motor, probably 10.5:1 if I can get away with it, upgraded valve springs and port and polish to run around 6800 RPM.

Nobodies actually ever got it done and running before as far as I can tell, but I'm hoping to pull around 300whp with a w59, 4.10s and sticky 225's. I've got LCE cams, got super lucky and caught em when they popped up on toyotaholics for 400$ new with a bonus new water pump and timing set.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
I see... But... Why not do all of that to the 6 cylinder for smoother torque and ever more performance?
The RZ motors actually have more potential for power output and more aftermarket support. Paradise racing held world records with their RZ powered drag car putting down about 1300hp if I remember correctly.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
I see... But... Why not do all of that to the 6 cylinder for smoother torque and ever more performance?

Yeah, like was said the V6 5VZ-FE has very little aftermarket support beyond the TRD supercharger (although it is smog legal!). That satisfies the power needs of 99% of all 4Runner owners. And then there's me, trying to piece some custom performance parts & tune all together.

The 3RZ and also suprisingly the 22-RE has a ton of aftermarket parts available but most are centered around adding a turbo.
 
If you can get a replacement gauge face done, that's the hard part... Maybe a a place like Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod could do the gauge face for you?

(heck, if you get that done, I can probably modify the tach driver to match the new gauge calibration)

OR, if you are really careful, use a 6-cylinder tach driver board on your 4-cylinder signals. When your engine is spinning at 6k rpm, it will show on that tach as 4k rpm. Get the gauge face to match that and you will be golden (no electrical modifications necessary).

-Charlie

You sir are a great help. I will contact them as see what they can do about the gauge face, that was my biggest stress, electronics can always be worked around, I might message you later on about modifying the tach driver.
Thanks again.
 
Should be no joke. I know 5 psi through my stock motor was enough to shred trannies and diffs like butter. I was never easy on em that's for sure. Yep all motor, probably 10.5:1 if I can get away with it, upgraded valve springs and port and polish to run around 6800 RPM.

Nobodies actually ever got it done and running before as far as I can tell, but I'm hoping to pull around 300whp with a w59, 4.10s and sticky 225's. I've got LCE cams, got super lucky and caught em when they popped up on toyotaholics for 400$ new with a bonus new water pump and timing set.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk

thatll be a killer setup if you can pull it off.. hard part will be the tuning haha.
ITBs are insane fun.
 
I see... But... Why not do all of that to the 6 cylinder for smoother torque and ever more performance?

Im not a huge fan of v6 engines, although the 5vz is a great example of a v6.

Unbalanced, timing belt, does not handle power anywhere near a RZ can, and as said, the aftermarket support is nil.

I was torn between a 1jz-2jz swap or boosting my 3RZ, I ended up keeping the 3rz for the sole reason that its the original engine. at this point a JZ swap would have probably been cheaper as well.
 
I was torn between a 1jz-2jz swap or boosting my 3RZ, I ended up keeping the 3rz for the sole reason that its the original engine. at this point a JZ swap would have probably been cheaper as well.
You wouldn't be happy with the stock 1j/2j power anyway - single turbo, tuning solutions and other bolt-ons would be in your future anyway... so forget those savings. The only thing you wouldn't be doing with a JZ is a full engine build. Trade the cost of engine internals for the engine itself, I suppose?

-Charlie
 
You wouldn't be happy with the stock 1j/2j power anyway - single turbo, tuning solutions and other bolt-ons would be in your future anyway... so forget those savings. The only thing you wouldn't be doing with a JZ is a full engine build. Trade the cost of engine internals for the engine itself, I suppose?

-Charlie

I'd imagine the power output of a 2jz would be significant compared to the 3RZ. Likewise you'd have a huge increase in reliability.
 
I'd imagine the power output of a 2jz would be significant compared to the 3RZ. Likewise you'd have a huge increase in reliability.

2J would be ok for me, but as phattyduck said, stock form I wouldn’t be happy with, id at the bare minimum need to up the turbos. My goal was 500-550hp and a stock 2J would need some work and money to achieve that, plus it’s a heavier long engine that’ll throw the weight balance off even further and require some serious fab work to make it fit.
Reliability id assume would be equal to my 3rz after it’s done as it’s a 20years old motor now... if I fully rebuilt a 2J then I’d agree, probably slightly more reliable than a boosted 3RZ.
 

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