Constantly losing power to gauge cluster

[phattyduck]

I'm well aware of all of that, the question is what the connectors are as the 2000 SR5 EWD doesn't list any connections in the front of the panel and says everything should be connected behind the body ECU - none of which are that shape or have that number of wires (the only diagram for the body ECU is under the section titled "relay locations" for reference). According to the connector list in the EWD the big one somewhat matches connector F7 but as far as I can tell it's not mentioned anywhere else in the diagrams for what it controls. The smaller one might be connector B17 (?) but same deal, can't find any mention of it.
The splices have been there for probably 10+ years now and I removed everything connected to them about 4 years ago, so I very highly doubt that's the issue.

"Component Location" - Connectors B16 and B17. Lots of the wires are on the Wireless Door Lock pages, and I'm sure you could find more on other pages.

-Charlie

 

[Devbot]

"Component Location" - Connectors B16 and B17. Lots of the wires are on the Wireless Door Lock pages, and I'm sure you could find more on other pages.

-Charlie

Just came to correct myself and say it's B16 and B17, didn't realize the connectors were upside down :doh:

 

[Pyral]

Anybody know what these connectors handle? Every wiring diagram I've looked at says the only connectors on the body ECU are in the back, not the front
(Those wire taps aren't mine, they were from the previous owner trying to hook up an aftermarket immobilizer)

What are those red things around the wires? Did someone splice things into your harness?

Edit: You literally said in the post my bad. Look over any wiring that was messed with with a fine tooth comb, that looks very suspect.

 

[phattyduck]

What are those red things around the wires? Did someone splice things into your harness?

Edit: You literally said in the post my bad. Look over any wiring that was messed with with a fine tooth comb, that looks very suspect.

Those vampire clips can break wires pretty easily, especially over time. This is definitely the first place to start with debugging.

-Charlie

 

[Devbot]

Tool out the taps/splices, repaired the wires, threw in a new relay on the body ecu and new fuses all around - still no luck, lost power again this afternoon after about 5 minutes of driving, with the AC blasting on full no less so I doubt it's heat related like I suspected before. I happened to have a multimeter on me so I poked the 10A gauge and 10A turn fuse and got no resistance reading on them. I guess the only thing to do is start unplugging the ecu and poking various pins. Couldn't do it tonight as I was in the middle of making dinner so hopefully it'll come again soon and I can try.

The only other common denominator I can think of is it usually goes out when I have my left turn signal on, but that could also be because whenever I'm going somewhere I take way more left turns than right (sounds dumb but when I think about my route to work, the gas station or to the store it turns out to be true.)

Power into the body ecu is connector 1I, pin 2. Power sent to the combination meter from the body ecu is connector 1F, pin 8; turn signal is 1J, pin 5. I guess the next step would be to check the 1I connector and see if it has voltage, and if that isn't the case then the only other options would be to replace the 50A J/B fuse under the hood or the body ecu as a whole. If that doesn't work then I'm at a total loss because as far as I can tell, all options have been exhausted by that end.

Anybody know how interchangeable these fuse panels are? The part number on mine doesn't return any results, in fact they all seem to vary wildly despite there only being a few different models. I'm hoping if I get one identical to mine it'll fit despite there being different p/n's.