Hitch Receiver Installation Without Captive Nut Brackets?

Want to fit a Reece hitch but don't have the welded nut brackets for the two rear most mounting points. They are not sold separately, as far as I can tell. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
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Want to fit a Reece hitch but don't have the welded nut brackets for the two rear most mounting points. They are not sold separately, as far as I can tell. Does anyone have any suggestions?

A local welding shop can probably take measurements and weld some nuts to a plate fairly easily and cheaply. It will definitely be robust compared to what came with these from the factory.

4xInnovations also provides these with their rear bumpers, but they are not listed on their website. If you contact them you might be able to work something out.
 
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Thanks for the reply. There is only one local welder here and it costs a dollar for a gulp of air in his shop. The hitch was $50 and it would cost way more than that to fab some brackets. Was wondering if anyone had come up with a novel/MacGyver alternative?
 
Thanks for the reply. There is only one local welder here and it costs a dollar for a gulp of air in his shop. The hitch was $50 and it would cost way more than that to fab some brackets. Was wondering if anyone had come up with a novel/MacGyver alternative?

If I remember correctly, you might be able to stick a breaker bar into the open frame rail with the bumper removed. If this is the case, then you could bypass the whole weld plate altogether. It will probably be a hassle to get the bolts threaded into the "loose" nuts, but if you don't plan to take it off again (or don't mind the future hassle when you do), then this is also an option.

Come to think of it, I had to use a hole on the side of the frame rail to access the nut closest to the front of the truck when the nuts broke loose from the weld plate.
 
just post in the wtb, sure there r any # of people with said, I have some and just throw a set into my scrap metal.
 
Curt sells "bolt fish wires" that can be used to get a bolt into a tough to access hole - but you still have to find a way to keep the bolt from spinning while you tighten the nut (so, bolt would drop down from inside frame)... so still doesn't solve your problem.

-Charlie
 
^^ Good suggestion removing rear bumper for inserting a wrench down inside the frame..
Also noticed that fish wire bolt attachments and star lock washers are used by another hitch supplier but I'm not familiar with them, If anyone has any experience using them for our application?
 
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This is simple welding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I installed a Reese hitch on mine which actually only had 1 hole at the rear.

I used 1x1/8” flat bar with a 1/2-13 nut tacked in place.

You might be able to hold the nut in place with a breaker bar or something but will be a bit of a pain.

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Want to fit a Reece hitch but don't have the welded nut brackets for the two rear most mounting points. They are not sold separately, as far as I can tell. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I was thinking of putting in a bolt with a "fish wire" from the inside of the frame, but then I thought: What if you were to get a steel plate, 1/2" thick?, drill and tap to the appropriate threads?

https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/13087/installsheet/13087_INS.pdf
 
Finally fitted. Bought Torque Converter Retainer Bracket Straps on ebay for a few dollars each and dremmeled out the square openings to take a larger diameter coach bolt. Slightly undersized the opening to press in the bolt with a vice. The strap jammed against the inside of the frame when tightening so bolt head wouldn't move.
I like the older style Reece hitch like the one in post #11 as it doesn't project as much.
 

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