How do I loosen up the parking brake cable

[Boognish_Forever]

So after having my right rear axle seal done I notice my parking brake was sticking on the right wheel and had to jiggle the cable that runs across the axle to loosen it up every time I used it. I brought it back to the mechanic and they told me everything was fine and they lubed up both drums. Well it wasn’t so I decided to just take a look at it myself and when I looked at the right bell crank, I notice the outside springs were missing and realize that was probably the issue.

Now that I have the have springs on the bell crank, I can not get the right side of the cable back on without pulling both the right and left rear brake belcranks out to far which will make the rear brakes grab. I looked at my parking brake handle inside and that nut can not be adjusted out anymore.

 

[Toyotayoda]

Well something ain't right, brake cables don't just shrink. Those springs on the bell crank were an excellent start, the brake cable adjustment starts at the short cables in the drum, make sure those are installed correctly and adjust them with the bolt on the bell crank. the small cables should not have slack with 0.5mm shim between the bolt and backing plate. Adjust your shoes in a bit, install drums, connect the park brake cable, operate hand brake several times you should hear the adjusters clicking in the drums during this process. When you no longer hear the adjusters working the shoes should be properly adjusted, about 0.5mm difference between shoes and drum if you want a measurable spec. hand brake should have 7-9 clicks to fully apply park brake

 

[Boognish_Forever]

Well something ain't right, brake cables don't just shrink. Those springs on the bell crank were an excellent start, the brake cable adjustment starts at the short cables in the drum, make sure those are installed correctly and adjust them with the bolt on the bell crank. the small cables should not have slack with 0.5mm shim between the bolt and backing plate. Adjust your shoes in a bit, install drums, connect the park brake cable, operate hand brake several times you should hear the adjusters clicking in the drums during this process. When you no longer hear the adjusters working the shoes should be properly adjusted, about 0.5mm difference between shoes and drum if you want a measurable spec. hand brake should have 7-9 clicks to fully apply park brake

I did adjust/loosen the bolt on the bell crank up which is making it harder to put the cable back on. I didn’t like how tight the parking brake was before and always felt it needed to be loosened and probably was sticking for a bit after it was in use. 2 clicks on the handle and those rear brakes were locked up, which it was like when I bought it 2 years ago. I was hoping I didn’t need to monkey around with the inside of the drums. I haven’t work on drum brakes before so I’m not to familiar with them and the Chilton repair book that came with it sucks and didn’t find anything in there about adjusting the parking brake for the 4runner and probably the rear brakes to.

 

[nevada]

have you followed the cables up from the rear end? there should be an adjuster somewhere in line before it ever enters the interior cabin.

 

[Boognish_Forever]

have you followed the cables up from the rear end? there should be an adjuster somewhere in line before it ever enters the interior cabin.

Not yet. This weekend when I change the oil I’m going to crawl around and see if I can find another adjustment on the brake cable.

 

[I_bRAD]

have you followed the cables up from the rear end? there should be an adjuster somewhere in line before it ever enters the interior cabin.

AFAIK, on a factory cable the only adjustment is at the lever and the bellcranks.

 

[nevada]

AFAIK, on a factory cable the only adjustment is at the lever and the bellcranks.

gotcha. I wasn't sure on that model. still worth taking a look to make sure the cable is damage or routed oddly causing the problem.

 

[Reinout]

I had one side of my parking brake sticking at some point too. I just ordered a replacement cable though because I found that the rubber boot that is supposed to seal it wasn't sealing it anymore: junk got in, etc. I found on colder days it would actually lock up even more to the point where it's almost unusable.

I replaced the whole brake cable and housing, which was wicked easy.

If I remember correctly, the adjustment for the cable tension is under-neath the center console. I think I removed the whole console to get to it the easiest.

 

[Boognish_Forever]

I had one side of my parking brake sticking at some point too. I just ordered a replacement cable though because I found that the rubber boot that is supposed to seal it wasn't sealing it anymore: junk got in, etc. I found on colder days it would actually lock up even more to the point where it's almost unusable.

I replaced the whole brake cable and housing, which was wicked easy.

If I remember correctly, the adjustment for the cable tension is under-neath the center console. I think I removed the whole console to get to it the easiest.

When you replaced the cable is there any adjustments to loosen it and where? I already loosen it up on the handle in the center console, but it wasn’t enough.

 

[I_bRAD]

When you replaced the cable is there any adjustments to loosen it and where? I already loosen it up on the handle in the center console, but it wasn’t enough.

Are you actually trying to remove the cable, or just loosen it? If the cable is disconnected from the bellcranks, and the adjustment nut at the front is loosened off, then the cable should be able to move freely within the housing. If not, then it's seized somewhere.

 

[Boognish_Forever]

Are you actually trying to remove the cable, or just loosen it? If the cable is disconnected from the bellcranks, and the adjustment nut at the front is loosened off, then the cable should be able to move freely within the housing. If not, then it's seized somewhere.

It’s disconneceted on the right bell crank right now, because when I pull on it to put the pin in, it pulls on the left bell crank causing both right and left brakes slightly out enough for them to rub. It’s not sticking, it needs to be adjusted somewhere....

 

[Boognish_Forever]

Are you actually trying to remove the cable, or just loosen it? If the cable is disconnected from the bellcranks, and the adjustment nut at the front is loosened off, then the cable should be able to move freely within the housing. If not, then it's seized somewhere.

Also the bell cranks have been cleaned, lubed and the whole parking brake cable has been replaced a couple years ago. Since it was replaced it’s always been tight and would lock the tires up after two clicks which I found to tight but never gave it any concern till I notice the left wheel would stick due to the springs being missing on the right bell crank.

 

[I_bRAD]

There are actually several toyota part numbers for the cable depending on the year/model etc. Wonder if the replacement was a mistake that kind of worked?

Or perhaps an aftermarket "universal" one was used that just isn't right. (did you replace it or was it a previous owner?)

 

[Boognish_Forever]

There are actually several toyota part numbers for the cable depending on the year/model etc. Wonder if the replacement was a mistake that kind of worked?

Or perhaps an aftermarket "universal" one was used that just isn't right. (did you replace it or was it a previous owner?)

A Toyota dealership replaced it so I’m sure they used a OEM and I’m no where near that dealership as it’s 2000 miles away. I called a toyota dealer in Portland and said they would only charge $67 for an ebrake adjustment. That sounds way to cheap for a dealer.

 

[I_bRAD]

A Toyota dealership replaced it so I’m sure they used a OEM and I’m no where near that dealership as it’s 2000 miles away. I called a toyota dealer in Portland and said they would only charge $67 for an ebrake adjustment. That sounds way to cheap for a dealer.

They probably quoted that price assuming it would be a 3 min job with a 10mm socket!

 

[Boognish_Forever]

They probably quoted that price assuming it would be a 3 min job with a 10mm socket!

Exactly. I bet they’re just quoting on adjusting the bolt attached to the lever in the center console.