Inner tie rods bad?

4Runnin2000

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So I had a steering rack installed when I did my lift. Since then, I've had a clunking over washboard roads and when I back out of the driveway and a vibration at about 60mph. This noise wasn't there before the lift. I figured maybe it was the CVS since my boots ripped shortly after the lift. I took it in to the reputable shop that installed it and had them check. They replaced the steering rack bushings. They said one wasn't seated properly. So they f'd that up. (along with a few other things) Noise and vibration are still there. So I jacked up the front and played with the wheel. No top to bottom movement, but definitely play from side to side on both passenger and driver. Sounds like my noise. Is this inner tie rods or should I be taking it back to have a different rack put in? Itres get replaced with the new rack right? I really don't like their work so this is hard to do. Thanks in advance!

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I'll rephrase and make it shorter. Side to side play when holding the tire, bearings or steering? I couldn't remember. And if so how soon do I need to replace. It's a dd and I don't want it falling apart down the road.

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steering yes, side to side. could be inners, could be outers, could be both. could also be the steering shaft that goes through the column. they are 2 piece, one inside the other that is made to collapse in an accident. those shafts wear and get sloppy. I had that condition, even before replacing anything. that problem will cause what you are describing as my truck had the similar symptoms. I took apart the column and had the shaft spot welded on 2 sides, as it is 6 sided, and the clunking was resolved. the steering is more responsive as well now, being that there isn't any play in the shafts. a few thousandths of an inch play in there will translate to a lot of movement at the tires.
 
I'll rephrase and make it shorter. Side to side play when holding the tire, bearings or steering? I couldn't remember. And if so how soon do I need to replace. It's a dd and I don't want it falling apart down the road.

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When you get the side to side play, look at the outer tie rod joint to see if it is moving. If not, it's probably your inner. It's weird that you have this play after installation of a rack. Wonder if you just got a bad rack?

Is the rack tight?
 
steering yes, side to side. could be inners, could be outers, could be both. could also be the steering shaft that goes through the column. they are 2 piece, one inside the other that is made to collapse in an accident. those shafts wear and get sloppy. I had that condition, even before replacing anything. that problem will cause what you are describing as my truck had the similar symptoms. I took apart the column and had the shaft spot welded on 2 sides, as it is 6 sided, and the clunking was resolved. the steering is more responsive as well now, being that there isn't any play in the shafts. a few thousandths of an inch play in there will translate to a lot of movement at the tires.
Ok cool. I replaced the outers shortly after the lift along with Lbjs. All oem. Inners I'm pretty sure are part of the new rack. I read up on that mod for tack welding inside the steering column. But I'm just thinking that since i didn't get the vibration or noise before the lift it had to have been something that got messed with when the lift was put on. Is it Possible for the rack and itre's to be duds? Because the noise came right from the start.

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When you get the side to side play, look at the outer tie rod joint to see if it is moving. If not, it's probably your inner. What side does it have play? That's the side with the issue. You probably can't push hard enough to get the play to translate through the steering rack to the other side. It also could be your rack bushings, if those are gone.
There is play on both the passenger and driver side. The bushings are less than 9 months old and maybe 3k miles. The outers were replaced maybe 6 months ago and about 2k miles ago.

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There is play on both the passenger and driver side. The bushings are less than 9 months old and maybe 3k miles. The outers were replaced maybe 6 months ago and about 2k miles ago.

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Something happened when they replaced your rack. It has to be something associated with the rack, maybe not even the tie rod ends.
 
When you get the side to side play, look at the outer tie rod joint to see if it is moving. If not, it's probably your inner. It's weird that you have this play after installation of a rack. Wonder if you just got a bad rack?

Is the rack tight?
That's what I'm thinking. A lemon right out of the box. I was told it was a reman oem. As I told them I wanted only oem. It has a lifetime warranty on the part. But not the labor of course.

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That's what I'm thinking. A lemon right out of the box. I was told it was a reman oem. As I told them I wanted only oem. It has a lifetime warranty on the part. But not the labor of course.

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Take it back and tell them that something is loose. That's what I would do. As stated earlier, it could be the input steering shaft.
 
Something happened when they replaced your rack. It has to be something associated with the rack, maybe not even the tie rod ends.
Ok. That's the only thing I can think of also. Was hoping for an easier solution. I really don't want to deal with these guys anymore. They are a busy shop out here in AZ so appointments are hard and the fact they f'd a few things up. Maybe I will try to get some info and paperwork on the rack and just deal straight with whoever sold them the rack for the warranty.

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Take it back and tell them that something is loose. That's what I would do. As stated earlier, it could be the input steering shaft.
I think I will do that. I don't have much of a choice. Especially if it's something they did wrong. Rather make them fix it for free or cheap

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Ok. That's the only thing I can think of also. Was hoping for an easier solution. I really don't want to deal with these guys anymore. They are a busy shop out here in AZ so appointments are hard and the fact they f'd a few things up. Maybe I will try to get some info and paperwork on the rack and just deal straight with whoever sold them the rack for the warranty.

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Usually shops don't tell you where they get the parts, and it's not on the paperwork. Why are they so busy if they screw things up?
 
Usually shops don't tell you where they get the parts, and it's not on the paperwork. Why are they so busy if they screw things up?
I'm not too sure. I've heard nothing but good things about them. Maybe they were having an off day. Or maybe they were in a hurry. But once all this is cleared up I won't be going back. Maybe a different location will be better.

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I'm not too sure. I've heard nothing but good things about them. Maybe they were having an off day. Or maybe they were in a hurry. But once all this is cleared up I won't be going back. Maybe a different location will be better.

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Oem racks run around $550 for the part and they never have lifetime warranty so I'm betting not Oem reman. That being said the aftermarket rack itre are junk. Mine loosened up in a few thousand miles right after I hit the trail. They dont have the same about of droop as oems so they pull out the socket. Buy some oems and they will last 150k+ mile .
 
Oem racks run around $550 for the part and they never have lifetime warranty so I'm betting not Oem reman. That being said the aftermarket rack itre are junk. Mine loosened up in a few thousand miles right after I hit the trail. They dont have the same about of droop as oems so they pull out the socket. Buy some oems and they will last 150k+ mile .
So you think the rack is probably ok? Just replace the itre's? If so am I good to drive on them like that for a little while? Have to do the CV's also so probably do it all at once

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Best way to check itre is pop the otre from the spindle. Grab the otre where it connects to itre and pull in and out as hard as you can. If you feel play and or popping replace the itre's. Rack is probably fine.
 
So you think the rack is probably ok? Just replace the itre's? If so am I good to drive on them like that for a little while? Have to do the CV's also so probably do it all at once

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I think what [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] is saying is that you most likely didn't get an "OEM Reman Rack" from Toyota. It's a reman, but not done by Toyota. Toyota offers a 1 year, 12,000 mile warranty. Not lifetime. For $550, I would get the safari rack.

I think you will wear your tires out faster until you fix it. I would fix it ASAP to not ruin a set of $800 tires.
 
Best way to check itre is pop the otre from the spindle. Grab the otre where it connects to itre and pull in and out as hard as you can. If you feel play and or popping replace the itre's. Rack is probably fine.
Ok. That's good advice! Next weekend I will get it up on a jack and see what it looks like again.

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I think what [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] is saying is that you most likely didn't get an "OEM Reman Rack" from Toyota. It's a reman, but not done by Toyota. They offer a 1 year, 12,000 mile warranty. Not lifetime.

I think you will wear your tires out faster until you fix it. I would fix it ASAP to not ruin a set of $800 tires.
Yeah I kind of had a feeling by the price that it wasn't oem. Was hoping they didn't screw me over. But also had a feeling they were lying. But oh well I guess. I figured lifetime warranty if it fails. But I should have made sure. That's my fault. I'm gonna get it up and check the itre's though. That's something I can do atleast.

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I think what [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] is saying is that you most likely didn't get an "OEM Reman Rack" from Toyota. It's a reman, but not done by Toyota. Toyota offers a 1 year, 12,000 mile warranty. Not lifetime. For $550, I would get the safari rack.

I think you will wear your tires out faster until you fix it. I would fix it ASAP to not ruin a set of $800 tires.

Safari is out of business from what I know and they're racks where no different than any other reman.
 

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