installing rear shocks
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shootmymime
New member
mine was rusted, i had to use a saw and cut the outer layer (shield) to expose the shaft. then use vise grips to keep the shaft from spinning.
i think i put a wrench on the bolt and spun the shock shaft.
does that make sense?
its a very right squeeze to get in there up and over and in and next to the exhaust pipe.
this might help
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/127480-installed-tokico-trekmasters-having-issue.html
i think i put a wrench on the bolt and spun the shock shaft.
does that make sense?
its a very right squeeze to get in there up and over and in and next to the exhaust pipe.
this might help
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/127480-installed-tokico-trekmasters-having-issue.html
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Ugh. Hate this job. Climb underneath. I think the stockers were a 14mm deep socket. You come at them from behind, If you can get a breaker bar on there and you have a pair of great big channelocks, just twist the top boot and it will snap right off. First one took me a half-hour, second one took two minutes.
If yours don't have steel boots, then think Sawzall. Less elegant, takes longer, but it works.
If yours don't have steel boots, then think Sawzall. Less elegant, takes longer, but it works.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
Un bolt the lower mount so you can move the shock around. Then sawzall the piston just below the upper shock mount. You'll end up cutting thru the rubber cushion. Nothing like the smell of burning rubber. Don't waste time trying to unbolt the top nut. It's so rusted, it'll take you a long time and loss of skin on the knuckles.
FancyPantsMcGee
New member
...install a body lift then just reach through your new found gap:biggrin2:
(this really might be easier)
(this really might be easier)
white_n_slow
Senior Member
I find about 3 hours of cursing, crying and contorting your arms does the trick. If you don't need to keep your shocks, just cut them off with a sawzall. Way easier than "removing" them.
blonde1boarder
New member
When I did my rear shocks I managed to get a box wrench up there on the nut and then spin the shock until it wedged itself against frame/stuff up there. Then I grabbed the shock below on the metal sleeve and twisted like crazy. Worked for one, the other I had to cut with a sawzall.
Hi Guys I`m in Perth Western Australia for those of you who dont know where Australia is, let alone Perth. Its the most isolated city in the world and is referred to as DUllSVILLE , because nothing happens over here. I have had my 1991 4runner since new and has covered just over 70,000 MIles ( 112,000 KM ) I recently replaced all four shocks on mine earlier this year. The rears were rusuted at the top, but brake fluid worked a treat. Left them overnight with a good squirting of brake fluid, and in the morning the two lock nuts came off without any dramas. I also fitted the Lexus 4.7 litre V8 into it last year, and its turned it from a sluggish and grossly underpowerd vehicle , into a great touring 4x4. It gets its fair bit of off road touring in the winter, as the summer is too hot and dangerous to be in the Outback of Australia. I`m running 285x75x16 General Grabber A/T mk11 for town and highway use ,and for off road Maxxis Bighorn all on 8 inch wide rims .
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cj80cruiser
Senior Member
No reason to even try to unbolt them unless you are reselling or reusing them. I swear it's so much easier to unscrew the bottom bolt and work the shock back and forth until it breaks from metal fatique. Accomplished both sides as quick as I could move the jack stand and jack under the axle and give a dozen tugs on the old shock.
Unless I misunderstand you wouldn't your method widen the top stud mounting hole allowing for greater future movement on the new shocks?
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
No sir, it breaks the shock. The mount is fine afterwards. The shock doesn't come through the hole but breaks at the hole. You push and pull the shock back and forth from towards the front of the truck towards the rear. Keep working it and it will break. Its a little tricky on the driverside due to the tank but a jack stand under the passenger side will allow the driverside axle to droop farther down and you have an easier time getting the spring out and in as well if changing those out.
Also I put anti-seize on my shocks threads which allowed me to tighten the shock down with one hand.
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ryan93Integra
New member
I bought new rear shocks to install 6 months ago when I did my suspension lift. Took one look at it and said screw that lol. Still really needs to get done though
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
I was thinking the same thing at first. If you break those shocks off and use anti-seize it's really easy. I had a 14mm ratchet wrench that made things easier too.
Might I recommend a more.. awesome way to mount the new ones?
I may need to do this as my mounts are rusting pretty badly. I plan on hitting it with a wire wheel/brush and using POR then painting too but I may just weld on some new mounts.
As mentioned several times over, I cut mine out as the bolts were completely rusted on and were rounding over when trying to loosen them.
junr
ryan93Integra
New member
Ill have to see if I can do them this weekend. The under side of my truck is also a thick layer of mud so that makes it even more fun haha
