It's complicated, it won't start!

Brian1973

New member
Some history - soooo since last summer, I believe I have a leak in my water pump. Slowly antifreeze needed to be refilled. As I just flipped the 200k mark, figured I was going to need to do a timing belt change soon, (last done by a shop at 115k when I bought the truck) so I would just add antifreeze until I had more time to do that project on my own in the winter. As time went on, the leaking increased (truck generally used for short trips).... after I went through a gallon of antifreeze, figured I might as well just use water. Soooo, by December, I was having to put a gallon of h20 in before any trips and by the time I used the truck for about 15-30 mins, the temp was starting to rise as I watched it on my scangaugeII. I knew one time freezing weather was coming and I put antifreeze into the system. Seemed initially, the system would stay filled if the cap was on, but as soon as I took the cap off, or drove it, it lost the vacuum and would instantly start leaking out. Unfortunately, another early hard freeze came in December and I forgot to fill with antifreeze prior. When I did remember, it was early in the eve before it was suppose to sink to 5 degrees and was probably 20 deg by then. I attempted to start the truck to let the water pump circulate the antifreeze I was going to add. Truck wouldn't start. Stumbled at the first attempt, and then nothing... I figured I had already ruined something :-( I added antifreeze into the rad and attempted to start a few times... until battery died. Tried a couple days later after it was warmer (battery recharged) and even spayed some ether into the throttle body. Same result, after sitting a while, it seemed to want to start on first attempt, then just continued to loop with an occasional hiccup when adding ether. I checked the dipstick, it seemed ok but I did get a tiny bit of moisture it seemed around the oil on the towel... So the truck has sat!

Few days ago, I attempted to start again. Time to get to this project! Nothing but a hiccup on first try... So I started with a compression check... got 150 psi in all cylinders although the one closest to the drivers' side firewall at first went up but then leaked slowly down. Tried a second time and it maintained just fine like the rest... hmmmm soooo next I drained the oil. Seemed thin. Did not get water first and then oil, seemed nothing separate. Just very thin oil. Didn't seem to have a gassy smell to it. Oil was just changed 100 miles before this incident. Left it go overnight after filling the radiator with water again... most seemed to leak out on the ground... Next day, removed the oil bolt again and drained. Seemed like oil but did have a gassy smell... Only about half a qt drained. At this point, the water pours out of the truck pretty much as it was doing back in Dec if the truck wasn't running... Doesn't seem water was in the block....

So I have compression, I have not confirmed spark but on assumption, along with I sorta got a reaction when adding ether, figured I'd check fuel pressure... soooo, mechanic let me borrow his fuel pressure kit. Dammit, no shrader valve on the fuel line? uhg, soooo, without trying to figure which adapter went where, figured I'd just see that fuel was being expelled.... I opened the banjo bolt on the driver's side fuel rail after already having the timing cover off because I thought at one point maybe I snapped the timing belt, nope, seems fine.... When I put a rag there and attempted to start the truck, it actually seemed like it was going to start!!! So I checked rag, and yep, it was wet so I have fuel right? Figured I'd try it again and the truck did start for about 4 seconds although it was rough.... and THAT is where I'm left.... put the bolt back in on the banjo along with the washer that slid out between engine and banjo.

Fuel pressure regulator? Says under Plenum in the Haynes Manual... Is that what I see between the plenum and firewall? Seems odd this all started after a cold night... was running just fine before that. I'm still not convinced something didn't freeze from the water :-/

I had a '91 Ford Ranger just 8 years ago that had a fpr fail and flooded my engine into a hydrolock... after cutting the fpr open, saw the rubber gasket had failed and was allowing gas to blow through in to the vacuum line.... this definitely doesn't seem the same because the engine is definitely spinning freely when attempting to start.... but why start when fuel line is open?

Could the oil be thinned because of my attempts to start and the gas sinking past the rings? I would think some of that would be pushed out the exhaust?

Thanks for hanging with me this long... Look forward to advice from brains smarter and more experienced than my own! Hoping I don't have to buy a new engine but have looked around and have found a 100k mile engine for about $800.... Oh, please be a simple problem!
 
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Having almost pure water does two things:

1. It lowers the boiling point to 212 degrees. Not good, since it's possible to hit that in normal operation and blow the coolant system or radiator. I think whatever leak you had before has just been increased.

2. It lowers the freezing point. You could have used a block heater before trying to start it with frozen fluid or waited for warmer weather. It's really hard to say what might have happened.

I don't think gas or oil got anywhere and messed things up. I think you probably have heat damage. Try and get a code reader and see what codes come up, they have cheap bluetooth ones on Amazon for $30 or less.
 
As previous poster suggested, Diagnostic Trouble Codes are a good place to start. Even if you don't have a CEL, you may have a pending code which could provide info. Autozone, etc will read for free if you don't have a code reader.

You verified compression. After that it is air, fuel and spark. If you haven't already, check air filter & air box to make sure they are not obstructed - that's easy. After that, I would check spark using a spark tester, then try to check an injector to make sure it is getting a signal with a noid light or by listening for clicking with a mechanics stethoscope. Maybe you can get to one on the right side without pulling the plenum. Then, if necessary, would get that fuel pressure gauge hooked up to make sure pressure is being maintained.

Buckaroo
 
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Scangauge II had a P1300 code that I cleared back around winter before the "no start" issue started. I replaced wires and that seemed to cure it as well as the miss that was occurring. The code did pop up in the codes screen after I thought I had it cleared but no CEL came on with the no start issue. It has since not surfaced. As mentioned, seems this is a fuel problem. Made another shorter post and concentrated on this being a fuel issue. I have a fuel pump kill switch and it seems I can get the truck going roughly if I kill the fuel pump after attempting to start. Weird! Soooooo, either the P1300 possibly has something to do with ECM and is causing this? or seems maybe a fuel pressure regulator issue? I'm still researching how to get to the fpr and guessing I have to take off the intake? Then spend $70-$130 for a guess on the fpr. Yes, possibly getting a reading on the fuel pressure would be best first!

Not giving up on freeze issue being a source as well though... a few times during driving with water, h2o did evacuate and the heat rose but I don't think it ever went into the red although close a couple times which in the last mile or two to home, I just turned on the heater and that seemed to keep it below red... i know, not good... I get it, but sometimes you gotta do what ya gotta do... It ran fine and I didn't overheat it to the best of my knowledge the last time it ran.

And yes, starting a frozen block probably wasn't the best idea.... Was hoping since it wasn't below freezing more than a couple hours, that I could start and replace what little fluid would stay in the engine. I realize that may have caused the issue I'm having now :-( It was a gamble... Verdict out on whether it cost me.

Thanks for input, keep it coming!
 

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