It's rusty

[Jescotdo]

So I bought a 99 sr5, supercharged 5speed that is from the north. It is super rusty underneath. I envision saving the frame, or keeping it from getting worse, and upgrading the other components. Worst is the rear axel housing, rear drums and underside rear components. Can you point me to a write up or build that I can reference? Or am I screwed?
Thx

 

[PitbullRescuer]

perhaps you could post some pictures of it so we can see what you're dealing with. Sometimes it looks worse than it is. Other times you're screwed.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Check out the link in my signature. I have the same problems and am fixing it all up. In that thread I link to a number of really useful links related to rust problems on these things.

Where are you located (you can add this to your profile and it will show up in your threads)? Location is useful to know what resources you have around you.

You will need to do full inspection of certain key areas to see if you are screwed (likely you aren't completely screwed as alot can be fixed by a welder, but it just might not be worth it to you). Key frame areas are around the rear lower control arm mounts, and along the inside of the frame rails (specifically along the gas tank, may be hard to inspect, and same spot on the other side, also, towards the front).

First thing first: For the rear axle, check to see if you are leaking gear oil. If it is already rusty, then remove the diff filler plug (may be very difficult, use a 6-point socket, 24mm or 15/16th's if it has rusted a ton) and check the oil level. It should be filled right up to the filler plug hole when parked on level ground.

 

[Mellow77]

Looking forward to the pics. I have the same problems, my truck is from IL, but so far they're surface problems and I'm addressing them with chassis saver.

 

[Jescotdo]

I updated my info. Thanks. I will take some pics tomorrow, but its bad. Thanks for the help and Ill follow your links.

 

[AF808fighter]

If you have no holes going straight through any where on the frame (just pitting), then its not as bad as you think. To stop the rust and save your frame and other rusty components you must find a shop that will do a "frame-on" sand blast. It may take a few calls because most technicians dont like to work around the gas tank. Have the frame, axle and suspension linkage blasted down to bare metal. Then use POR 15 or Rust Bullet 2 stage (base and top coat). You can apply it your self but its a royal PITA and doesnt come off your skin for 10 days. Better to have the same shop blast and spray the frame in one sitting, if you wait too long after having it sand blasted, you'll get flash rust. It needs to be completely clean, dry, and painted within 24 hours. As for the inside of the frame rails, any mechanic can throw a camera inside the rails and inspect the damage. You can have the inside rails blasted to some extent and sprayed as well, but they'll never be fully clean.

Now for winter upkeep, you obviously need to wash the undercarriage once a week, making sure to flush the frame through the access points, but you also need to shoot the inside frame rails with lube or old motor oil.

I'm sure others on the forum have some excellnt tips. The key is getting rid of the rust and choking off the oxygen supply completely. And again, if there are no holes, and your welds are still solid, there's no reason to freak out.

 

[Jescotdo]

 

[Jescotdo]

 

[Jescotdo]

 

[CanukRunner]

thats not too bad ... if you cant sand blast the diff just use chassis saver or por 15.

 

[badattitude]

I'm fan of fluid film, spray it on every November.

Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

Buy a case off ebay for $80. You'll have enought for 3-4 years.

There are other good options too. I also thought about getting the same rust protection they put on some of the Tacomas with rust issues. My local Toyota dealer sends the rusty Tacomas to a detail shop that sands and coats the frame with protection. Maybe ask you local dealer where they send the rusty Tacomas.

 

[CanukRunner]

Oh wait... waaaaaiiit.. no

maybe frame on sandblasting is bad..

The truck body is galvanized.. so if you were to spray the sandblasting material upwards you would strip the paint of the body underneath..

also you may blow through that rusty gast tank filler neck and also take that plastic coating off the brake lines.

I just called a guy here and he said out right no because he always runs into problems of leaking lines and silica sand can spark fires.

I found one guy that will look at my truck tomorrow, but im afraid the guy who is willing to risk it may be even worse than the other guys.. also he could blow through the rear diff...that would royally suck

 

[tbst]

Thats really not that bad!

 

[JohnsD90]

LOL, you call the rust.

 

[Bandit Runner]

That's about what mine looked like until last year when I coated the entire undercarriage with POR-15. It was a nasty messy job, that took me two full weekends, but it was worth it.

Good luck.

 

[Nelsonmd]

That's about what mine looked like until last year when I coated the entire undercarriage with POR-15. It was a nasty messy job, that took me two full weekends, but it was worth it.

Good luck.

Yeah, POR 15 would be a good idea because you don't have to completely remove the rust, just wire brush it good to remove anything loose, then paint over it. The POR-15 needs the oxide to adhere to. That is how I am tackling my rust issues, because the bottom line is you can't get rid of ALL you rust, so you are going to have to paint over some of it, and POR-15 is better than any rust converters or anything like that.

 

[CanukRunner]

Ive never tried por 15 yet but i hear good things.

I tackled my frame with a grinder wire wheel and every rust product Canadian tire had..

I have never wasted so much time and money before.

After grinding and sanding, i applied the rust remover gel, then the rust converter for what was left, then the rustolium oil based stuff, then waited a week..... all the rust was back.

Im going hard core next time..sand blast ... then chasis saver its like a rino liner type deal made for frame resto...

Im going to get a welder guy to look at my rear diff to see what he can do about the rear ..