Just got a 2003 SR5 :)

Parkss1181

New member
Hey everyone! I’ve just acquired a 2003 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport Edition. A few plans I have on changing over the next few weeks:

I’ve ordered a new Sony car play radio, remote start, and back up cam all being installed professionally when I have the time to do so. I just ordered a pair of universal heated seats to put in the 2 blanks available on the center console. My only question about that is 1: id like to put a dual USB charging port in the middle location, driver heated seat in the left and passenger heated seat on the right. Is it possible that I can eliminate the cigarette lighter and wire all 3 to the 12V source? Or is that prone to blowing a fuse.... that’s really my only question for today and also to introduce my new truck and to start documenting my build! In the future I’d like to have:

~2-3 inch lift and 32’s with 18 inch wheels
~Light bar
~Aftermarket front grill
~all LEDS
~tinted tails, windows and window strip
~purchasing the rear spoiler and mounting my self
~everything mentioned above as well
~sport hood with the scoop maybe to find from a junk yard
~and maybe a CAI for little kick and slight MPG increase.

I look forward to documenting my build here and interacting with everyone! *♂️
 
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And here’s some pics, the bumper bars have to come off lol
 

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I don't know about the heated seats. They might draw too much power. A cigarette lighter draws a good bit of power, but to have that many items on one circuit might be a problem. I guess you could look at the electrical schematics for a heated seat to see what the circuit rating is and go from there.
 
I don't know about the heated seats. They might draw too much power. A cigarette lighter draws a good bit of power, but to have that many items on one circuit might be a problem. I guess you could look at the electrical schematics for a heated seat to see what the circuit rating is and go from there.


That’s what I was thinking but I figured I’d give it a shot and ask here maybe someone had done it. I was thinking maybe taking the wires from the cigarette lighter and cutting them from it, and making it only for the 2 heaters and USB outlet. Not sure if that would take off some of the load.


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I don’t use the cigarette lighter anyway other then USB ports so if I installed a 2 style USB port in the blank port I’d just eliminate the cigarette lighter all together. But maybe it’s just a better idea to run another 12v line one for the 2 seats and one for the USB


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Well I just looked over my RM for the 4th gen and it lists a 30A fuse for EACH "Power Seat". But I cannot find how that power is split up between the seat motor and the heater, or if the heater is on it's own circuit in these years. The Cig lighter is listed as 10A, so that conceivably would not be enough.

Here is a pdf diagram from the RM of my 12' LE with heated seats. It lists a 20A fuse and I think it's for both heated seats because it says S/HTR FR, not LH or RH, but it also lists a 10A fuse at the ECU. I think the ECU fuse might be because the heater controls are in my console and not on each individual seat. If your wiring in your own switch, the ECU fuse probably won't be needed. So a circuit for EACH "Heater" in your case would be prudent. Installing a wire rated for 20A to each seat with their own source would be the safest bet. You may only need a 10 or 15A fuse though. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.
 

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Well I just looked over my RM for the 4th gen and it lists a 30A fuse for EACH "Power Seat". But I cannot find how that power is split up between the seat motor and the heater, or if the heater is on it's own circuit in these years. The Cig lighter is listed as 10A, so that conceivably would not be enough.

Here is a pdf diagram from the RM of my 12' LE with heated seats. It lists a 20A fuse and I think it's for both heated seats because it says S/HTR FR, not LH or RH, but it also lists a 10A fuse at the ECU. I think the ECU fuse might be because the heater controls are in my console and not on each individual seat. If your wiring in your own switch, the ECU fuse probably won't be needed. So a circuit for EACH "Heater" in your case would be prudent. Installing a wire rated for 20A to each seat with their own source would be the safest bet. You may only need a 10 or 15A fuse though. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.


That is a great point. Honestly it won’t be hard to run 2 new lines from the source with a 15-20 amp fuse in each one. And wire up each seat heater on their own run, and then eliminate the cigarette lighter and wire it Straight to this usb I have coming in the mail. I only have 3 ports and that means I’ll have to take out the DAC and eliminate it or relocate it but that can be a can of worms. I might just cut each wire and cap each one off with tape or wire nuts, but honestly I don’t do any towing or any type of aggressive off-roading. So really it’s pretty useless to me.


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Well relocating the DAC would be the best bet to avoid ECU issues. You might be able to leave the switch connected and then tuck it in a space out of the way under the console. I never use mine, but I live in the flat Florida swamp land. EDIT: Come to think of it, you could test that just by disconnecting the plug and turn the ignition on and see what the system does. It may not affect the ECU at all.
 
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Well relocating the DAC would be the best bet to avoid ECU issues. You might be able to leave the switch connected and then tuck it in a space out of the way under the console. I never use mine, but I live in the flat Florida swamp land. EDIT: Come to think of it, you could test that just by disconnecting the plug and turn the ignition on and see what the system does. It may not affect the ECU at all.


Relocating would definitely be the best bet to keep it over by the left side of the steering wheel with all those blanks, but I read on other posts that it looks a bit like a cluster and nightmare to splice all those and extend. I might just do it anyway. I have a good electrical background so I’m not afraid to do it but it would just be a hassle.


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I’ll most likely either unplug it, or just re-route it to the left of the dash in one of the blanks. Not sure if I wanna go through the hassle if I really don’t tow stuff and also where I live there are absolutely no hills, only flat land here on long island lol


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Instead of splicing wires to reroute the DAC, could you possibly find the connectors and make an extension cord for the button? That way, no factory wires would need to be cut and the switch wires could be in the original location if needed. I haven't been behind the dash or console, so not sure if there is room for everything.

For the seat heaters, I would just run separate wires which I think you already landed on. It might be extra work than tapping into the cigarette lighter, but it would be the safe way. Also you would get a dedicated fuse to the seats with either fuse taps, inline, or separate fuse box.

I'm not really electrically savvy, so take these all with a grain of salt.
 
Just got a 2003 SR5 [emoji4]

Instead of splicing wires to reroute the DAC, could you possibly find the connectors and make an extension cord for the button? That way, no factory wires would need to be cut and the switch wires could be in the original location if needed. I haven't been behind the dash or console, so not sure if there is room for everything.

For the seat heaters, I would just run separate wires which I think you already landed on. It might be extra work than tapping into the cigarette lighter, but it would be the safe way. Also you would get a dedicated fuse to the seats with either fuse taps, inline, or separate fuse box.

I'm not really electrically savvy, so take these all with a grain of salt.


Thank you for your help everyone, and as for that I’m not sure if I’d be able to find the correct plug long enough to do that. Either way, I think my best bet at the moment is to disconnect, run the separate wires. And eliminate the cigarette lighter and use those wires to put in the double USB in the middle blank, and heated seat switches on their desired sides. Also if anyone is looking for a heated seat install I bought the kit for 37 dollars off eBay after watching a YouTube video of a guy putting in the kit in his 4runner and he had very good things to say about it. 37 dollars for a factory look you can’t beat in my
Opinion. The only other thought I was thinking is eventually I would really to get some nice seat covers to preserve the cloth interior since it looks practically brand new. The wet okales are nice but they are pretty pricy... they are the only ones I have really seen to wrap around the entire seat front and back though, in any seat cover would it be a bad idea to put the heating pad only
Under the seat cover? Instead of ripping up the seat and the seat back to put them in


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I'll vouch for Wet Okole. Over 4 years now and my driver seat is showing only mild wear. I don't have the heaters but they can be ordered with them. They have a cigarette lighter plug in, but I suppose you could hard wire them to your fuse box if needed.
 
I'll vouch for Wet Okole. Over 4 years now and my driver seat is showing only mild wear. I don't have the heaters but they can be ordered with them. They have a cigarette lighter plug in, but I suppose you could hard wire them to your fuse box if needed.


They are definitely nice, but the kit from classily.com for 400 for front and back? And after seeing pictures how they fit... might have go with those and get them in the fall when it starts getting colder and put in my seat warmers right under them so I don’t have to rip up the OEM fabric


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Another option some folks do for more switch space is get the bezel from a model with heated seats. My limited has 5 spots because of the seat switches. If you have any junk yards in the area that let you pull parts you may come away with most everything pretty cheaply. Heaters need some decent power to run.
 
Quick question in piggybacking on the orginal heated seats question above! I was looking at the fuse diagram in the drivers side panel under the dash, and was was wondering, are the inserts with *no fuses* energized? Or I can only use an existing fuse to tap into? I have the bas model with no power seats so I’m assuming I’d be be able to put each seat heater on each “power seats fuse?” (Separate lines of course) the only thing I do have that’s power is the power lumbar support.


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Quick question in piggybacking on the orginal heated seats question above! I was looking at the fuse diagram in the drivers side panel under the dash, and was was wondering, are the inserts with *no fuses* energized? Or I can only use an existing fuse to tap into? I have the bas model with no power seats so I’m assuming I’d be be able to put each seat heater on each “power seats fuse?” (Separate lines of course) the only thing I do have that’s power is the power lumbar support.


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I'm not sure if they would be hot or not, best way to find out is with a multi-meter and test them.
 

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