Okusputokus
New member
LCA rubbber at the sway bar was replaced. The KDSS rubber onto the cylinder and static arm(pass side) is original. Some normal play there but definitely not clunking.
KDSS - Is there an Aftermarket Repair Option
- Thread starter NC[4]Runner
- Start date
Okusputokus
New member
Video
here it is-
NEVERMIND THE BUGGERED BOOT- It's mostly fixed now.
KDSS Cylinder Clunk 2014 4Runner Trail on Vimeo
at :57 it gets up close. My theory is that the inner piston is banging against the cylinder wall on the quick front/back bumps. 1:33 is closer, 2:05 and 2:18 are really good too for if you look closely you can see the lower part, especially just below where the lower boot clamp is, doesn't entirely look like its angle of deflection compliments the upper tube/housing/cylinder. At 3:05 is the static side. Nothing going on there. You can see some play in the sway bushings but there's not metal on metal or clunking there. Those are in acceptable condition at this time. Bushings at the LCAs are new.
NEW Front ARM BP51s last week(warrantied)
NEW OEM steering rack last week (incl inner and outer TRE)
LCA OEM replaced a month ago
UCA Nitro installed about 2 months ago.
So far seeing used replacements at around 300ish. Waiting from dealer on cost to recharge the system.
HAS ANYONE RECHARGED THE SYSTEM ON THEIR OWN???? I think someone earlier in this thread did. I'll look into that.
here it is-
NEVERMIND THE BUGGERED BOOT- It's mostly fixed now.
KDSS Cylinder Clunk 2014 4Runner Trail on Vimeo
at :57 it gets up close. My theory is that the inner piston is banging against the cylinder wall on the quick front/back bumps. 1:33 is closer, 2:05 and 2:18 are really good too for if you look closely you can see the lower part, especially just below where the lower boot clamp is, doesn't entirely look like its angle of deflection compliments the upper tube/housing/cylinder. At 3:05 is the static side. Nothing going on there. You can see some play in the sway bushings but there's not metal on metal or clunking there. Those are in acceptable condition at this time. Bushings at the LCAs are new.
NEW Front ARM BP51s last week(warrantied)
NEW OEM steering rack last week (incl inner and outer TRE)
LCA OEM replaced a month ago
UCA Nitro installed about 2 months ago.
So far seeing used replacements at around 300ish. Waiting from dealer on cost to recharge the system.
HAS ANYONE RECHARGED THE SYSTEM ON THEIR OWN???? I think someone earlier in this thread did. I'll look into that.
Okusputokus
New member
The SST from Toyota is as much as the front KDSS shock!
https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=00002-12000-01
https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=00002-12000-01
northcoast
New member
Jivewalker
Member
Bushing looks worn to me. Too much play. It's split for install. Mine was also split from wear on the piston side under the bracket. My knock was not as pronounced as yours before I replaced, but it did go away. Also, not convinced noise is coming from there. Did you inspect CV axle? Good luck figuring it out, hope you can without having to dive into the KDSS.
progress4m
Member
I would remove the sway bar completely and ride\test without it… as that should help to identify if sway bar or KDSS cylinder is the source.
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Jivewalker
Member
This is a good troubleshooting idea, but how would you remove the sway bar given the cylinder that's connected? Is there a trick to that? Asking for my own benefit for future troubleshooting.
Okusputokus
New member
When I removed the sway bar the clunks are GONE. I've been reading more into some old threads and I'm gathering that when the fluid is low or in the case of mine where it's been lifted and beat on then the clunking in the front (probably rear too) begins.
Next week having the dealer take a look and recharge the system.
Also I ordered new sway bar bushings (not the end link ones, those are new) but I'm 99% sure it's not those causing the clunks.
Hopefully my front KDSS cylinder isn't jacked.
Next week having the dealer take a look and recharge the system.
Also I ordered new sway bar bushings (not the end link ones, those are new) but I'm 99% sure it's not those causing the clunks.
Hopefully my front KDSS cylinder isn't jacked.
progress4m
Member
KDSS sway bar can be disconnected at the cylinder (two bolts) and on the passenger side (fixed point)- two bolts as well. Cylinder, fixed point, and sway bar can be moved away from each other (using straps or even large zip ties) so the test drive can be performed.
progress4m
Member
Understood... hopefully recharge will resolve it then… although the idea that “fluid is low” maybe questionable unless you actually noticed the leak… but that just my thought and I hope I am wrong.
Good luck man!
Okusputokus
New member
So I scheduled my recharge for next Thursday and I had told the service advisor that my rig was lifted. He called me back and said that after talking with his techs a bit more they say that lifted vehicles tend to somehow suck air into the system which eventually clauses clunking and when they try to recharge it it may or may not work and could cause some type of lien. I asked him if it's the typical lean which I could live with but he didn't have an answer to if it was more severe than that.
Guess we'll see if it works or not. If it diminishes the clunking I currently have I'll be happy and at least know exactly what's going on. If it gets worse I'll probably just remove the KDSS system or just the sway bars and tie up the hydraulic cylinders
Guess we'll see if it works or not. If it diminishes the clunking I currently have I'll be happy and at least know exactly what's going on. If it gets worse I'll probably just remove the KDSS system or just the sway bars and tie up the hydraulic cylinders
Any updates if that fixed the problem.
Okusputokus
New member
I ended up building my own hydraulic tool based on the Toyota tool. Recharged it per Toyota instruction. Clunk still there after recharge. Removed front sway bar...clunk gone.
I have a thread about it somewhere.
I have a thread about it somewhere.
Okusputokus
New member
Here's my KDSS recharge write-up
KDSS recharge - making my own SST
KDSS recharge - making my own SST
Yeah! I have heard about these things. A friend of mine was in line at a repair shop, and he wanted to get his exhaust fixed. He was in a hurry, though, so he contacted www.autoleap.com, a repair shop in his city, and got his exhaust fixed in a few hours. I like the fact that you can now do this and get your car fixed faster. Of course, it is more expensive, but when you are in a hurry and need to get something done quickly, you don't really look at the price. I have a nice car that I used to race sometimes, and I am thinking about going to that kind of repair shop to get it fixed.
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1st time here. Just found out my front hydraulic ram is leaking and the Toyota dealership wants @$5,000 to replace. Crazy eh! I am contemplating getting regular sway bars and upgrade the shocks. Is this good idea and will KDSS dash light remain on? I would appreciate any advice on this.
Thank-you!
Don’t let them do. If you need help. Reach out to me.
You can totally do it your self. But for sure the kdss front shock is retailed at $2k. I can get it to you at whole sale but it’s still $1500.
You would need a $100 hyrdrostatic test pump to re bleed the system once new shock is installed. I have the whole write up.
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Okusputokus
New member
Hey Dom!
$100 test pump?!? Where do you get those?
Just swapped a used piston in, taking my chances, yes. Old piston had loose upper bolt. Procedure is really straightfoward, only pain, IMO, is the bleeder screws for the front piston, they are a pain to get to!
honda250xtitan
New member
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