Latest on Windshield Moulding
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1974RUNNER
New member
Had my rust repaired around window and replaced window about a year ago. Got rid of the chrome trim and used a rubber gasket, couldn't be happier. still looks great after a year. Rubber trim still all nice and snug. I would think any reputable glass guy could do it for you.
Yeah, I had mine replaced with the universal rubber window trim by a local guy here. He did a decent job its 100x better than the molding and he talked to me about optiins i had. You can go one of two ways basically go for the extra wide stuff and it will look like poop in the top right corners making that almost 90 degree turn or go with the regular width which is what I did. The downside to that is the bottom near the cowling will be about a 1/8 inch exposed. Other than the fact my guy was a bit sloppy with the glue which he admitted it turned out pretty good. Ill see if I can snap some photos tomorrow.
ChildrenOfBodom
Moderator
I just had mine done also. The corners aren't perfect, but the black looks better to me than the trim.
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1974RUNNER
New member
Here's a few pics. My window guy did good work. The rubber Measures just under 1 in
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
I have no pic of how it looks, yet. However, I favor function and rust-proofing over looks. I load dripping kayaks on the roof so I want the gap to be exposed so it is easy to rinse off / clean, and I do not want hidden gap and a thin interface between body and rubber trim where saltwater would get trapped and cause rust. Therefore, I asked Safelite AutoGlass tech to:
1) Install rubber trim (same size as ^^) - This is NOT to seal (sealing is done by very good urethane adhesive used. .Trim is merely to protect edge of glass from accidental stresses.
2) Before installing Cut-off flap of the trim so it will not cover the gap AND so it will not push against the body (surrounding glass) and push glass away from body while adhesive cures.
My Final Solution as built here.
1) Install rubber trim (same size as ^^) - This is NOT to seal (sealing is done by very good urethane adhesive used. .Trim is merely to protect edge of glass from accidental stresses.
2) Before installing Cut-off flap of the trim so it will not cover the gap AND so it will not push against the body (surrounding glass) and push glass away from body while adhesive cures.
My Final Solution as built here.
1974RUNNER
New member
My prices are a little skewed because I have industry friends. $1400 on rust repair around window and paint on roof, cowel, and hood. $200 new window and rubber trim installed.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Safelite tech came to remove the cracked windshield and left me a week to work on the rust. Minimal cost because it only had surface rust on the mounting surface. Materials I needed (probably totaled under $50) were:
- Sandpaper set - coarse to fine
- Spray Paint Can
- Spray Primer can
- Permatex rust converter (Already bought it before I heard more testimony about POR-15)
Safelite Tech came back to install replacement glass. Approx $180 parts & labor.
I hope windshield experts and body work experts could chime in on this:
Urethane adhesive used is very GOOD, so... Which would make a better seal/adhesion?
- Urethane directly on steel after tech applies primer, OR
- Urethane on top of layers of paint, primer, and body steel.
sl0wkarate
New member
I currently work for service auto glass (basically safelite we are just the warehouse division that handles the glass inventory). Front what I have learned from out inshop techs is that the chrome moulding isn't always the culprit of the rust. 9/10 it's improper installation. Usually a sealant is used around the mounting surface after taking care of the rust and then two coats of primer are used and given time to set before installing the windshield. A lot of times corners will be cut and no primer used which will lead to the nasty rust.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
It does not matter who or how the glass is installed. The chrome molding is the cause of this...
(1986 MoreFunner with original glass and original chrome molding)
AND this....
The above
+ water, especially saltwater from dripping kayaks, surf boards, etc
+ Molding keeping air from drying it
= Mixture that stays moist (electrolyte) for extended periods of time
= Rust
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JoseGringo
New member
Which moulding?
I've been researching this, trying to get ready to replace my own windshield, which is cracked in a 'T'. My local Safelite crew let me know they didn't have what I was looking for(the wider moulding & removing chrome permanently) So now I'm asking where you found these moulding or what did you use?
I've been researching this, trying to get ready to replace my own windshield, which is cracked in a 'T'. My local Safelite crew let me know they didn't have what I was looking for(the wider moulding & removing chrome permanently) So now I'm asking where you found these moulding or what did you use?
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Really? Then go somewhere else. My Local Safelite has the rubber moulding although I trimmed it for reasons explained on my post.
JoseGringo
New member
I am going elsewhere.
I've seen your posts, and window fix, (thank you for sharing) you do a heck of a job sharing your information.
I've seen your posts, and window fix, (thank you for sharing) you do a heck of a job sharing your information.
