LBJ Options for 3rd Gen's
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Mgyver1
Member
No
Yes
Yes, but you have to change the OTRs to Tacoma version too
Several have done it
No real strength advantage but you loose some turning radius
Bstrom
New member
OMG! You replied before I hit the New Posts link! Might be a record response...
So, does that mean the OEM part is plenty good as it is?
Any reason to replace other items while it's being done?
UBJ's? TRE's? Bushings? Other?
And... go!
Mgyver1
Member
The 4Runner LBJ is as good as it's gonna get. My truck has 150k and I ended up replacing the LBJs, along with the inner and outer tie rods just for good measure. I installed uniball UCAs so I don't have a UBJ anymore.
Absolutely go OEM for the LBJ, and I would encourage OEM for the rest of the stuff. The OEM LBJ and OTR will come with new castle nuts, but the things that are not included in the LBJ are the 4 bolts that hold it to the knuckle that are worth replacing, and the OTR does not come with a new jamb nut that can get stuck or damaged during replacement. The bolts and jamb but are cheap so might as well order them when getting all the parts.
This has all the part numbers you will need
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...nner-tie-rods-ball-joints-wheel-bearings.html
Scramble
New member
I did OEM OTRE's along with the OEM LBJ's. They are cheap & easy.
Unner
New member
Go all OEM for all parts, it'll be the last time you ever have to do them. Don't bother with the tacoma parts. They also have the same failures. I'd rather have the 4Runners great turning radius. People are always amazed at how I can whip the 4Runner around in a tight space. For OEM parts check out Amayama. I used them to get my ITRE and so did [MENTION=119532]Road Bull[/MENTION]. It seems kinda sketchy, but it's legit.
Here's a link with more info:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/196245-killer-deal-oem-inner-tie-rods.html
Here's a link with more info:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/196245-killer-deal-oem-inner-tie-rods.html
ADHDandthensome
New member
Caging the control arms
I'm getting ready to do a full front end rebuild on my 3" lifted '97 SR5. I'm doing all bushings, extended travel CV's, new tie rods and ball joints.
Well I just found out about the lbj failure being so common on these (I own two with 230k and 370k with no failure) and have decided to simply cage the control arms to prevent separation.
Now this is just an idea I have yet to put in action. However I can find no one else that has done so and I was curious as to why.
My theory is to simply run a 5/16 stainless cable with coating to a pivot on both control arms. I would leave a tiny amount of slack for movement, but would this not stop the dreadful separation at speed?
Any thoughts
I'm getting ready to do a full front end rebuild on my 3" lifted '97 SR5. I'm doing all bushings, extended travel CV's, new tie rods and ball joints.
Well I just found out about the lbj failure being so common on these (I own two with 230k and 370k with no failure) and have decided to simply cage the control arms to prevent separation.
Now this is just an idea I have yet to put in action. However I can find no one else that has done so and I was curious as to why.
My theory is to simply run a 5/16 stainless cable with coating to a pivot on both control arms. I would leave a tiny amount of slack for movement, but would this not stop the dreadful separation at speed?
Any thoughts
A lot easier to just replace the LBJ’s and bolts with oem every 10 years/100k miles.
Devbot
New member
I'm struggling to picture what you're describing but it sounds beyond goofy
ADHDandthensome
New member
Basic idea, this is approximately how I was wanting to do this. The blue line would be a cable on the leading edge of the control arms.
Goofy or not the ball joints should not be able to separate completely. Of course you could try to find a limit strap in the correct length and you would get the same result, I just have the cable already so no cost.
I don't mind replacing a lbj, but I do mind replacing my family should it fail at speed
Goofy or not the ball joints should not be able to separate completely. Of course you could try to find a limit strap in the correct length and you would get the same result, I just have the cable already so no cost.
I don't mind replacing a lbj, but I do mind replacing my family should it fail at speed
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theesotericone
New member
That won't do anything to keep the LBJ from separating from the LCA. You're just creating redundancy for the spindle. To secure the LBJ you'd need to weld from it to the LCA.
The problem with what you are suggesting is it has to have enough slack to let the suspension articulate. The upper and lower control arms are different lengths so the distance between the same points upper and lower arms change as the suspension articulates. The lower ball joint only needs about 1/2-3/4 of an inch to come out of the socket and then there is nothing keeping the steering knuckle from going sideways away from the lower control arm.
I have yet to see any lower ball joint failures at speeds above 20 mph. Most of the failures occur at a very sharp turn or after returning to center after turning that far.
There is an inspection procedure in the FSM. All you need is a jack stand, pry bar, and dial indicator to check for play in the lower ball joint. But in all reality, changing your lower ball joints and bolts with oem every 100k is the easiest way to ensure you don’t have a lower ball joint failure. If you do a lot of off-roading or rock crawling then do 50k miles or less.
If you really really don’t want to do that then you can replace the lower ball joints with uniball versions: Toyota Tacoma Lower Uniball LBJ Conversion - Anonymous Fabrication but those will still require replacement/inspection at regular intervals.
Edit: the guaranteed way to eliminate this failure is to buy a vehicle with a different front suspension design that forces the lower ball joint into the cup rather than pull it apart.
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