SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
When installing additional lighting light bar spot light etc. Do you typically tap the current electrical system or create a total separate circuits for these accessories
Light bars..
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JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
It depends on the load demand of the light bar but you can't go wrong by creating a new circuit with a relay which is how my light bar is setup.
tx_shooter
New member
I installed a seperate fuse box for all my accessories. This way I will not overload any single circuit at the worst time and make a trip fail. Also it makes it easy to do a new circuit for the off/ on switch.
I have a bussman 10 relay box. In my back seat. Same guy that makes this 5 relay.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Re...095565?hash=item4b3181298d:g:2vQAAOSwe-FU6d9q
Makes life easy.
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Oh wow yea that looks like that would be the best direction to take... The light bar that I was looking at uses a 160 watt total... So this totally makes sense seeing this product, plus u could run multi accessories off of this one unit.
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
So at what point does a dual battery become a factor.. only if I add a wench into the mix.
Yeah, I really like mine. So mine is 10 relay rather than 5. By the same guy. You can request custom lenght wires. What I did is, I replaced the power (+) cable with a thicker one. And the ground (-) with a thicker one. Then I but connected extensions on the other ones that I needed.
Mine sit under the rear seat where the OEM jack goes. And it’s split. In other words. 5 wires to the front through the firewall. And 5 in the back behind the interior trim. Then all the switch relay and switch power are ran to the front behind the head unit.
All I do when I add a accessory or whatever. I simply tap into one of the wires. Then install the switch. And all of my wires are “rough” wired. No need to run anything. And then I just put in a fuse in proper location and I’m golden. The whole 10 relay box has a 100amp bussmann breaker.
Can check out my build thread. There are photos there. The box comes with fuses, and relays. So it’s actually not a bad price.
As far as dual batteries, I don’t think you should worry about it. I don’t have a dual batteries and I am fine. I have a good single battery. Optima yellow top. I run a winch, led lights , headunit with a amplifier. I can run all my lights at once and my 100amp breaker does not turn off.
I’d look into dual battery set up when you are camping a lot overnight, and run a fridge. If you have a winch. Run the winch with the tuck running. A good dual battery set up will be expensive. So if you add a winch. You’ll be fine.
Mine sit under the rear seat where the OEM jack goes. And it’s split. In other words. 5 wires to the front through the firewall. And 5 in the back behind the interior trim. Then all the switch relay and switch power are ran to the front behind the head unit.
All I do when I add a accessory or whatever. I simply tap into one of the wires. Then install the switch. And all of my wires are “rough” wired. No need to run anything. And then I just put in a fuse in proper location and I’m golden. The whole 10 relay box has a 100amp bussmann breaker.
Can check out my build thread. There are photos there. The box comes with fuses, and relays. So it’s actually not a bad price.
As far as dual batteries, I don’t think you should worry about it. I don’t have a dual batteries and I am fine. I have a good single battery. Optima yellow top. I run a winch, led lights , headunit with a amplifier. I can run all my lights at once and my 100amp breaker does not turn off.
I’d look into dual battery set up when you are camping a lot overnight, and run a fridge. If you have a winch. Run the winch with the tuck running. A good dual battery set up will be expensive. So if you add a winch. You’ll be fine.
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hyken
New member
I actually used a Blue Sea Systems fuse panel and ran 8 gauge cable to that. then installed a switch and lights off of that.
Tapping power is great, but IMHO anytime you mess with something engineers did, your chances of screwing something up increases. When you install a separate circuit and fuseblock, not only does it look professional, it looks like you know what you're doing.
Tapping power is great, but IMHO anytime you mess with something engineers did, your chances of screwing something up increases. When you install a separate circuit and fuseblock, not only does it look professional, it looks like you know what you're doing.
thenightman
New member
Adding a dual battery system is a good idea when you add a wench to the mix. They are know to use a lot of power, with their hair dryers, curling irons, etc. What is the story behind your Avatar picture?
SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Avatar is a of a Rig Flexing at a gas station... Not mine but I thought it was funny...
I also have a blue sea auxiliary fuse block. That is primarily used for, CB radio, elocker, outlet, Underhood light. And whatever els.
Again, you don’t need a second battery for winching. Many on here don’t. If you want to. You can. But a good, proper set up will cost you !
You’ll be fine with one good deep cycle battery. Again, when winching. Have your truck running. Unless you plan to get stuck A LOT. Then maybe you should consider second battery.
Again, you don’t need a second battery for winching. Many on here don’t. If you want to. You can. But a good, proper set up will cost you !
You’ll be fine with one good deep cycle battery. Again, when winching. Have your truck running. Unless you plan to get stuck A LOT. Then maybe you should consider second battery.
Bumbo
New member
It depends on what you want it for, AND how you plan on wiring it...
A dual battery for Winching applications would only be useful if wired in PARALLEL to help minimize voltage drop during high amp loads. Especially useful if your alternator is not high output, but not always required either.
That parallel connection could be made using a high current switch or ACR if you wanted to maintain separation.
The separation (Bank A / Bank B) would be useful for running accessory loads when the truck is off. Many people who run radio communications equipment, fridge/freezers, or other persistent loads. In this scenario, an isolated 2nd battery allows you to run accessories without every having to worry about killing the starter battery.
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Bumbo
New member
Agree...
I like BlueSea, they make a mess of awesome electrical gear. I use their fuse blocks, ACRs, LVD, and switches.
Once you get something like this installed, adding a circuit for anything is a walk in the park.
I like the ones that have a (-) ground buss built into it as well. Makes for cleaner and more convenient working jobs.
In the background, that is a Low Voltage disconnect... I can have the system cut-off power to the fuse panel at a programmable voltage set-point. If you accidentally left something on, it would disconnect the load, ensuring you have enough juice to start the truck again.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7635/m-LVD_Low_Voltage_Disconnect
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tx_shooter
New member
I will add another +1 for Blue Sea fuse blocks. They make a really good product in a wide variety of configurations. As for a dual battery setup - I started running one for my on board fridge for camping trips. The 2nd battery is not a full size battery but it provides enough power for the fridge overnight and a little into the next day. I am trying to keep weight down to conserve MPGs. All my accessories run through the Blue Sea fuse box.