phattyduck
Elite Member
I was just busting his balls, with my 4banger & manual I can spin the rear tire easily when it's dry out.
The last point about RWD with an LSD or engaged locker in the snow still stands though!
-Charlie
I was just busting his balls, with my 4banger & manual I can spin the rear tire easily when it's dry out.
The last point about RWD with an LSD or engaged locker in the snow still stands though!
-Charlie
E-lockers also fail. A lot of members have posted issues. A good air locker is pretty damn reliable.
I dont rock crawl, and this past winter I only had issues with snow or mud twice, but then again I did not play, explore back roads further than I felt safe in the snow.Plus I am usally by myself adn dont have a winch or a wench
I dont know if a locker is what I really need, with compressor and wiring etc for as limited as it would be used. Ive read about people doing limited slip, mtbtim even did a video of an install of one. Thoughts ?
That is correct. OP no atrac. Absolem has been afk for to Long. Lost his 3rd gen powers.
if you were able to back out and turn around you weren't "stuck" ( pedantic i knowI have great tires and 4wd ( KO2's and studded mud/snow in winter) but last winter I did get stuck twice out in the woods in deep snow and had to back out to where I could turn around
an Elocker and an air locker are not as reliable as a detriot
i'll take an elocker over an air locker any day.
i've seen to many air lockers mess up. pump fails, air leaks, melted air lines, the brass inside the diff, etc.
E-lockers also fail. A lot of members have posted issues. A good air locker is pretty damn reliable.
Lockers can get you in more trouble than help for most snow situations. This said... They are FAR superior when you really need more than one wheel traction.
Most E-Lockers require a fair amount of slip before they engage. For instance, the E-Lockers need about 180 degrees of slip before they lock up. Then, if you change direction there is another 180-360 degrees before you are locked again.
All that stuff is usually user error because they don't maintain there rig. Many issues on e-lockers across all Toyota platforms.
That is NOT how the Toyota e-locker works....nor just about any other e-locker short of the gov-lok found in GM Corporate axles.
I should have said, "most e-lockers I've dealt with". I didn't mean to claim this is how the Toyota ones work... I had/have no idea. The factory Jeep lockers don't need the rotation either but have other weaknesses that still makes the ARB more desirable.
The Eaton E-Lockers do require this rotation (at least the ones I've installed). It's for this reason I tend not to like them so it's good to know this isn't the case in Toy-land.
Are you sure you're not talking about Eaton's Gov-Loks? The regular e-locker from Eaton may take an few rotations to lock, just like Toyota's can.....but once they lock, they are spooled until you unlock them (which can also take a few rotations).
Ya, the Jeep air lockers have been problematic....and most get replaced with ARBs/Zips.
Neither a locker or limited slip is going to help you a lot in deep snow. Lockers/LSD's help when traction is greatly different between the two wheels on an axle. That's not usually the case in deep snow unless you've dropped one wheel into a ditch or something.
Best aids for deep snow are good tires, tire chains, a shovel, Maxtrax or equivalent, and/or a winch (for short drifts). Sometimes you just can't go.
I've mostly been a JK guy, Their lockers are all electric. They actually work really well but if not maintained and cleaned regularly the sludge and metal floating around makes the magnet weak and it will bind or fail to actuate. This can happen in both the locked and unlocked state.
Any other axle I've installed a locker in has been either ARB or OX with exception to the Eaton E-lockers for our 2-door... I put them in both the D30 front and D44 rear. WE HATED how the locked. I would be okay with rotation to lock if it stayed locked, but every time we changed directions it would slip and for equal or more rotation before locking again. The caused us to regularly bend the pins and ultimately I replaced the carriers.
We host/lead a lot of trail rides. I've seen this operation on several aftermarket e-lockers", but it is possible they were all JKs and this operation is isolated. I honestly never kept track. I just knew that if I was spotting someone with a aftermarket e-locker I couldn't count on a tire to grab and rotate immediately.
I'm still learning on the Toys... But I do plan to re gear and add lockers soon so this has been a handy conversation. I love the ARBs but it's tough to find good diff oil that doesn't have friction modifier. If you run friction stuff with an ARB you will eventually eat the seals on the slip ring and start spitting oil out the solenoid. Then there is the whole on-board air thing... Out JKU has two compressors, one dedicated to the lockers. Our other rigs just get a Powertank chucked in. If the rotation thing isn't an issue it makes the type of locker more desirable.
...having now watched the video, I can say that (at least for the JK) it isn't exactly accurate...
The pins are nowhere near that beefy. There are 4 and they are 1/4" in diameter at best. Also, the magnet pushes the pins into place but they are spring loaded. There is a ramp that they follow before reaching the locked position. It is this ramp that has to be undone and then go up the other side where the rotation is needed for direction changes.
Long ago (at a show) I spoke with Eaton about this and they claimed it made for a "set it and forget it" experience. Essentially the slip was to make turning easier for users that use the lockers all the time on the trail. This said, The guy didn't answer some other questions accurately so there is no telling if this was true.