Locking the rear of a DD 5 speed?

[daniresch]

I'm trying to build more for expedition travel than purely off road. That makes on road manners as important as off road capability.

Because of this statement... I would hold off for a selectable.

I ran Grizzly Yukon lockers front and rear on my then DD 1988 toyota SAS for 3 years. For the first year or two it was fun, It was predictable and I enjoyed getting on it and watching the rear end slide out. Yes, parking lots and icey/snowy roads can be difficult. And my turning radius got worse, which was a bummer on AND off road.

But being a daily at the time. I did not like seeing my $1100-$2000 tires (35's, then 38's, then 40's) getting worn out by driving around on the pavement to and from work lol.

That was my main reason for going selectable, tires are expensive!!! I figured the money I'd be saving on tires over time will pay off the ARB's I'm running now. Not to mention how much more enjoyable driving my truck on and off road is now with a selectable..


For price comparison I found my 4.10 elocker 3rd for $500 for my now DD 4runner.

 

[KidVermicious]

Dude, you were tearing up tires because

I enjoyed getting on it and watching the rear end slide out

That's not the locker, that's you.

 

[daniresch]

Dude, you were tearing up tires because



That's not the locker, that's you.

hahaha i like to think it was a combination :lmao:

 

[RunnerLimited]

Yeah I think I could happily go with an aussie. I have a lot harder time finding more info on the Grizzly. It's supposedly even smoother and quieter, but I don't know.

As for the use, the kind of travel I would do is definitely enough to warrant a locker. Auto lockers aren't locked 100% of the time, and I'm certain that I would adjust easily to driving one, even in the winter conditions... Even still though, if I go aussie and end up not liking it, it would be easy to revert back to open diff.

I'm definitely going to do one or the other. I'm not concerned about daily driving an auto locker. Like I said, I just want to end up with the smoothest one.

I have the Aussie locker on my 99, and I love it!
When i go out on trails i never have to shift it 4 hi or lo
on road manners I drive 1000km every week, only thing hard to do is tight turns or u-turns.
but I never notice it while driving. I like the clicking sounds. Re-assures me that the locker is still working.

Last season i stopped hearing the clicking sounds while turning and later realized that my axle was broken, left it alone and found out the hard way.

(axle sheared right off driving 120km/h on the highway, sending my right rear rim to the ditch :jaw

 

[scpa0501]

To answer your actual question, the full carrier Grizzly or Detroit will operate a little smoother, but not much. Unless you're installing it yourself, it'll be much more than double the price though because installing it requires removing and reinstalling the ring gear, which most guys need to pay a shop to do. If you run bigger than 33s or have a heavy foot the extra strength might be worth the premium, but otherwise the lunchbox locker will do you fine.

An elocker would obviously be awesome, but if you can't find one at the right price get an Aussie or a Spartan. $250-$300, you can install it yourself in the garage, and if you don't like it you can pull it out yourself too. And unless you're highly sensitive, which it doesn't sound like you are, it's on-road quirks aren't that bad. Not even on snow and ice.

This is most similar to my current thought process. I've read almost nothing but good things about the Aussie, and it's dramatically less expensive. I like the idea of dual Truetracs, but they are more expensive, especially considering that I cannot do all of the install myself. I don't know what magical land some people seem to find their e lockers in, but I have been searching and there isn't much out there in my 4.10 ratio. Even if I considered going to 4.30s, I'd still be looking at the added cost of the front diff and the added time of the swap up front. I'm not really interested in the ratio change anyway, for the sake of gas mileage. It may be a small change, but I drive 30-40k miles a year. I don't see myself needing more leverage than I can already get with 4.10s in low range. I'm not planning on going any bigger than the 235/85/16s that I'm on, so I'm not worried about what big tires do to mess with things.

Listen, I know there are quirks, and I expect that I'll be fine with them, even in winter driving. If I'm wrong, it's the lowest risk choice. Like I've said, pretty much every review I've read about the Aussie is extremely positive. I'm really a huge fan of the simplicity of the Aussie.

I struggle with justifying the cost and complexity of the full carrier locker or e locker. I'd be cool with the e locker if I could find a good deal on a 4.10 locker with housing, but it's not as easy to come by as I would like.

 

[scpa0501]

I have the Aussie locker on my 99, and I love it!
When i go out on trails i never have to shift it 4 hi or lo
on road manners I drive 1000km every week, only thing hard to do is tight turns or u-turns.
but I never notice it while driving. I like the clicking sounds. Re-assures me that the locker is still working.

Last season i stopped hearing the clicking sounds while turning and later realized that my axle was broken, left it alone and found out the hard way.

(axle sheared right off driving 120km/h on the highway, sending my right rear rim to the ditch :jaw

My biggest question about driving with it is about how much gas it takes before it locks. I've read that there is some buffer between using some room between smooth acceleration and locking of the diff.

 

[RunnerLimited]

My biggest question about driving with it is about how much gas it takes before it locks. I've read that there is some buffer between using some room between smooth acceleration and locking of the diff.

Well, I wouldnt know really, ive floored the runner multiple times in stop and go traffic, only time i really notice it lock is when i hear the tire squeel while turning.

If your located in places that snows, thats when it gets a bit tricky.

 

[white_n_slow]

My biggest question about driving with it is about how much gas it takes before it locks. I've read that there is some buffer between using some room between smooth acceleration and locking of the diff.

Hard to explain, I guess. But the best way to describe it is you will feel the locking effect more the tighter you are turned. So even at very light throttle you will feel the tires scrubbing a bit if you're doing a full-lock u-turn on pavement. Normal turns (like say making a right hand turn on a neighborhood street at 20mph), you will not really notice much if anything under light throttle, but if you try to gas it out of the corner, you will notice it. Sweeping turns (for instance, speed limit of 35 or higher), you won't notice anything at all. You can also modify your driving style a bit to minimize the effect--coast through turns with the clutch in and then accelerate after you've mostly straightened out.

 

[turbo8]

Short of a selectable, the best traction device for a DD is the True track limited slip. I'm not aware if they make a version for the Toyota axle however..

They make them, I like mine.

 

[JohnMc]

The advantage of a junkyard locker axle is that you don't have to do the gear setup, you just put the whole thing in as is. Shade tree mechanic skills and tools.

installing a new diff carrier, which is required with a replacement locking carrier, requires that you set up the gearing correctly. That can be shade treed as well, but that may result in howling gears and premature failure. Getting it right requires skill and specialized tools. You would probably be better off paying to have it done.

Which puts the junkyard locker axle back in the money as the better solution, for less or equal money.

Swapping the front diff to get a 4.30 is a bit of a PITA, though. No doubt about it. On the plus side, you're more likely to find a 4.30 front diff in a junkyard than you are a rear diff (of any type, esp. a locker). People pull rear diffs immediately on any Toyota truck/4Runner in the yards around here.

but the 4.30 gearing is better for larger tires anyhow, if you ever want to go larger.

 

[KidVermicious]

The advantage of a junkyard locker axle is that you don't have to do the gear setup, you just put the whole thing in as is. Shade tree mechanic skills and tools.

installing a new diff carrier, which is required with a replacement locking carrier, requires that you set up the gearing correctly.

Nope. That's the whole point of a lunchbox, it doesn't replace the carrier and you don't have to reset your ring and pinion.

 

[scpa0501]

The advantage of a junkyard locker axle is that you don't have to do the gear setup, you just put the whole thing in as is. Shade tree mechanic skills and tools.

installing a new diff carrier, which is required with a replacement locking carrier, requires that you set up the gearing correctly. That can be shade treed as well, but that may result in howling gears and premature failure. Getting it right requires skill and specialized tools. You would probably be better off paying to have it done.

Which puts the junkyard locker axle back in the money as the better solution, for less or equal money.

Swapping the front diff to get a 4.30 is a bit of a PITA, though. No doubt about it. On the plus side, you're more likely to find a 4.30 front diff in a junkyard than you are a rear diff (of any type, esp. a locker). People pull rear diffs immediately on any Toyota truck/4Runner in the yards around here.

but the 4.30 gearing is better for larger tires anyhow, if you ever want to go larger.

I've been having a hard time finding a 4.10 rear around here, and I don't plan on going with bigger tires or messing with the front diff at all. I'm going to stick with 4.10.

I'm pretty sure that I've decided to give the Aussie a try and see how it goes. If it isn't going to work out well enough, then there's not much difficulty in going back to stock and selling the Aussie for a small loss. Small risk for large potential gain.

 

[scpa0501]

Nope. That's the whole point of a lunchbox, it doesn't replace the carrier and you don't have to reset your ring and pinion.

I think he meant if I went with a Truetrac or Grizzly, which are both carriers.

 

[danthemanx07]

Hmm. Sounds like you have made up your mind, but if not, I have considered parting with a 4.10 e-locker in my Tacoma. PM if you are interested.

I ran a Samurai that was spooled front and rear for a while. I did not mind the rear spool, but it was not my DD. I found the only time I really noticed the bind was on u-turns.

 

[BrandonF]

4.10 elockers are out there. You just have to be patient and be ready to jump on one when it comes up. I picked up my entire 4.10 elocker axle including all of the wiring, switch and ecu off of craigslist. After selling my stock axle, the whole swap cost me less than $300.

 

[MATTPENN21]

I installed an Aussie a week ago on my 98 4RunnerDD It takes a little getting used to. Highway and straight driving I don't even notice it. Every turn click click click, people look at me like dude get that s... fixed.
Other than the ticking I really enjoy it. So spending 300-400 or just going a couple more to 500-600 for e locker. If it was me again I would spend the little extra for e locker but buying the Aussie and Sonoran 1.2 at the same time was hard on the pocket book.

 

[ralatkins]

I've been having a hard time finding a 4.10 rear around here, and I don't plan on going with bigger tires or messing with the front diff at all. I'm going to stick with 4.10.

I'm pretty sure that I've decided to give the Aussie a try and see how it goes. If it isn't going to work out well enough, then there's not much difficulty in going back to stock and selling the Aussie for a small loss. Small risk for large potential gain.

I understand, they are hard to find near me too.....I've been looking for a bargain on one for several months now. 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner E-Locker Rear Axle is the only one complete within 5 hours of me. and it seems high