Looking for advice or assistance with engine work

[Brandt]

Hi all,

I have a 99 with a 5VZ-FE that has 250k on the clock. The water pump seal just failed, so I'm looking at a timing belt and water pump job.

With the engine's mileage, I'm wondering whether it makes more sense to swap in a crate engine. It's been many years since I've had a swap done, so I'm not sure how this price compares with just doing the timing belt and water pump, and if the difference in mileage would be worth the difference in cost.

Two questions I'd like to throw out:

Are there any mechanics in the Portland, OR area that you all recommend for these jobs? I'm thinking quality work without paying dealer prices.

Also, is there anyone on the forum experienced in this kind of work that would be willing to take it on as a paid gig?

I'd appreciate suggestions.

 

[Twisted Sid]

If the engine is running good with good power and no misfires, I'd do the water pump and timing belt and any other seals that are back there and be done with it.
If you swapped in a used engine with an unknown history, you be dumb to not do all the maintenance stuff anyway and if you put in a rebuilt engine, I'd be questioning how good of work and components were used in the rebuild

 

[Bad Luck]

I agree entirely with what Twisted Sid said above

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

Like what my father used to say to me. “Why pay someone to **** it up when you can **** it up yourself for free”

In all seriousness doing that job isn’t really too bad. YouTube is your friend. As long as you have access to the tools you’d save quite a bit of money doing the job yourself


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[mtbtim]

That seems just a tad extreme to replace an engine just because of a water pump leak. Yes, you never know when an engine is going to need major work that might inspire an engine swap, but a timing belt job isn't major work. If you had a cracked head, then it's time to wonder if your money would be better spent on a replacement engine rather than paying someone to swap out a head for you.

I don't know your circumstances, but you could avoid a shop altogether and do the work yourself if you have the time, space, tools and patience to do it. If you're up to the challenge, watch both parts.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


t

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

250k? She's just broken in. Take the time to do the belt and pump swap yourself and it should chug right along for quite a while longer than that as long as you keep an eye on signs of the head gasket having issues or valve lash getting too out of whack (Timmy above me has a video for both of those as well). From my research that's really the most common issues that could kill the engine you ever have at higher milage and properly taken care of they can do 500k+. Beyond that just do regular oil changes, various flushes and top things off and you have nothing to worry about.

 

[Reinout]

By the sounds of your engine's needs: Timing belt all the way.

 

[jross20]

I agree entirely with what Twisted Sid said above

Same, although I would recommend that OP do a compression test because that would be a great indicator of engine health.

I mean if it seems like it's running and driving fine then it's probably okay but if you wanted to know for sure.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

With your milage it’s worth thinking about head gaskets with the timing belt already removed.


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[Brandt]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have some time off, so I'll try to tackle this myself. First step is that compression test.

 

[Michael0789]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have some time off, so I'll try to tackle this myself. First step is that compression test.

You can do it. I did it recently. the two front camshaft seals and the oil pump seal on the main shaft behind the pulleys are also good things to replace. their cost is trivial, and you're gonna have all the stuff out. I made a pulley puller and a camshaft tool for taking the cam pulleys off. NBD. You should be able to find them to borrow or rent.

The best tip i know of is to replace the belt with the belt tensioner completely disengaged, the bolts backed out so it can't touch the belt while you're installing it.

AND besides the job costing less, and besides the skills you build, you are actually making money by doing it yourself. Because you aren't transferring the labor costs, you are saving them and they are available for wheels and tires and gasoline to run your rig. I make up a mental talley sheet, and the labor I earn by doing it buys the tools i need and use, and the parts, like a brake upgrade, or a set of wheels...

That's really encouraging to me, I pay myself.

all the best,
M

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have some time off, so I'll try to tackle this myself. First step is that compression test.

Really think about head gaskets also. With your milage they are ticking time bombs. I had one go out at 230k miles and one at 258k miles and one at 140k miles. .


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[97greent4r]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have some time off, so I'll try to tackle this myself. First step is that compression test.

Having recently swapped in a used motor myself, I can say for certain that if your engine is healthy doing the timing belt and water pump makes more sense. I also lost a head gasket at 230k so I would look into getting those done as well. The only thing is that lead times from machine shops are crazy right now so if you want to get your heads cleaned up at a machine shop it might take them 3+ weeks (don't know if that's the case where you are but that's what I was told about 3 months ago).

I did the T-belt and WP myself as my first real engine project, it took me about 5 hours. Make sure you have a very interesting combination of extensions to get the belt tensioner out. Good luck!

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have some time off, so I'll try to tackle this myself. First step is that compression test.

This will help you.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ky7bndfFpO0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


t

 

[Brandt]

Quick update to an old thread

I've been working on this lately as the weather improved. All went smoothly until I got to the crankshaft bolt. I soaked it with PB Blaster twice a day for 4 days. Used the harmonic balancer tool and two breaker bars with an extension. Also tried two 1/2" impact drivers. I even tried the bump start method. Nothing budged that bolt.

I also hit it with a MAPP torch today to heat the bolt. All that managed to do was make the central section of the harmonic balancer (the ring with the two threaded holes) float and rotate freely within the rest of the harmonic balancer.

I'm not set up for AC service, so the condenser is still in place.

Has anyone here had any success with extreme cases of a fused bolt that no conventional methods have worked on?

 

[nissanh]

Did you place the handle of the extension ON/ABOVE the frame on driver side? What do you hear when you do the bump start method?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Were the impacts air, battery, or corded?

This is my holder. All hardware store items and 3ft long.


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[Brandt]

Ugh, I just now saw your responses.

The impacts were a snap-on battery-powered and pneumatic, powered by a 100 lb/ 6 CFM compressor.

When I used the starter method, I had the breaker bar resting on top of the frame on the driver side. When I started the motor, I heard the starter rev, then the sound of the broken breaker bar hitting the ground.

I have the tool itself covered, but it's the inner ring of the harmonic balance itself that's now spinning loose. It's the part that has the two holes that receive the tool you illustrated.