Louder air intake and transmission "buzzing" when stopped

NoVA_T4R

Member
'98 T4R LTD 4WD, 3.4L Auto. 225K miles.
I've come across two things that started happening this morning while driving to work.
#1. After about 5 minutes of driving, I started to notice that the sound of the air going through the intake system sounded much louder. Sounded almost like I had not attached the air intake tube after cleaning the throttle body. But nothing has been touched and everything is attached and tight.
This louder sound happens whether the transmission is in P, N, or D. I do not notice any meaningful drop in engine performance, but the sound is definitely louder.

#2. When fully stopped in traffic with the transmission in D, I get a very mild buzzing coming through the transmission like your cell phone would feel like if it was set to vibrate instead of ringing. Not a jarring vibrate, just a low level buzzzz. Shifting to N makes it go away.

So here's what I found when I started to investigate. My oil level was low. Below the L mark of the dipstick. Got it back within range and no change in the 2 conditions above.

I do smell a slight burning smell under the hood, like a valve cover gasket is leaking, but both of those were done at 196K miles. It's possible the mechanic may have done a subpar job. But the half moons were part of the job. The last oil change was with Castrol synthetic oil vs conventinal 5W-30. Don't see any visible leaks even in the back of the valve covers. Any thoughts on the oil loss?

Water pump, timing belt, 3 fan belts, thermostat, camshaft seals, and tensioner, idler, pulley were done at 214K miles. I've read other posts where those were mentioned as failed items that may have caused my sort of symptoms. Same mechanic did that work.

My transmission fluid was flushed at 222K. Previous flushings were done at 179K, 145K, 124K, 100K, 64K (did some cross country towing during the summers so I was very proactive on replacing the fluid after arriving at my destination). No problems with the transmission until today.

So I'm at a loss the explain either or both. Would appreciate your thoughts, especially if I missed some low hanging fruit fixes that escaped my attention.
 
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the little vibration I got while in park has due to the skid plate vibrating. are you sure nothing is lose under your car? *Out there thought*
 
Hate to break it to you, but stuff gets loose over time and starts to make noises. Part of owning an older vehicle.

I've just learned to live with all the squeaks and rattles I get EXCEPT for interior ones. Those drive me nuts... I take the panels off until I can find 'em.
 
Have ya' put a stethoscope on it to pinpoint noise location?

I did on mine when I thought the tranny was rattling at idle in gear to my naked ear.

With scope I narrowed it down to transfer case (to which some thought the chain had stretched) and finally to the crazy "dampner" behind it whose 2 bolts were loose. No more rattles. Luck and enjoy. :cowboy:
 
Have you inspected the transmission fluid level? I doubt its the transmission making the buzzing noise and is probably something else. I would still check the fluid though.

The low oil level is of a concern. It is either leaking it or burning it. I would take a closer look to see if the valve cover job that was done maybe failed and is leaking again. My half moons have been leaking and I get the occasional smell of burnt oil. Eventually I'll address it but for now, I just have to add a 1/4 of a quart of oil every 2k miles.
 
Well the dealership said the cause of both issues was the Duralast alternator that an independent auto shop installed. Defective diode.

Before you start pouring the Hate-o-rade, it was January of this year when the original alternator started failing, the engine wasn't firing correctly, all the Toyota dealerships were booked solid, and I had to get it fixed ASAP. 9 months and 14K miles later, it starts failing.

Went back to the independent shop, it was covered under warranty, so 1 hour later I have a new alternator and it seems to be running fine. Surprisingly, the defective alternator caused both the temporary supercharger sound effect and the transmission hump vibration.

But now I'm contemplating getting an OEM alternator to replace the Duralast, either straight away or at the first hint of trouble. If the OEM one lasted 211K miles, why not hedge with the quality part?

I'm still investigating the drop in oil level.

Hope this helps!
 
Well the dealership said the cause of both issues was the Duralast alternator that an independent auto shop installed. Defective diode.

Before you start pouring the Hate-o-rade, it was January of this year when the original alternator started failing, the engine wasn't firing correctly, all the Toyota dealerships were booked solid, and I had to get it fixed ASAP. 9 months and 14K miles later, it starts failing.

Went back to the independent shop, it was covered under warranty, so 1 hour later I have a new alternator and it seems to be running fine. Surprisingly, the defective alternator caused both the temporary supercharger sound effect and the transmission hump vibration.

But now I'm contemplating getting an OEM alternator to replace the Duralast, either straight away or at the first hint of trouble. If the OEM one lasted 211K miles, why not hedge with the quality part?

I'm still investigating the drop in oil level.

Hope this helps!

That sucks man. It will fail again. Most likely within 1 year and 20k miles. I would look into getting a new OEM. Mine is at 20 years 270k miles and still holding 14v+.
 

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