Lower Links Came out while driving.....

[bagelsjustbagels]

Hey Guys,
Sorry for the clickbait- but its true! After an awesome 190 miles through the Mojave- I was driving back, and my truck was acting a little weird, swaying left and right.

We got out and checked, and sure enough the Chassis bolt for my Metal Tech Lower Link, had fallen out- but luckily, the bushing held the damn thing in place!

So we do a quick trail fix, and replace the bolt.... but now its pulling to the right.

Upon looking at the rear suspension, it appears that the passenger side is not lined up with the driver side. (my sway bar link on the driver side is vertical, but the link on the Passenger side is angled)

This is telling me the suspension is not square. How can I check and see if it is square, or how can I align it?

I know the metal tech links are adjustable in size, but when I installed them and lined them up to match the stock lower links, one was longer than the other. This was never a problem however, and the truck drove straight.

Now after the trip, even though (in theory) nothing changed and i just replaced a bolt- its pulling to the right.

I replaced the partially threaded bolt with a Threaded Bolt, and may have torqued it more than the others... but that shouldnt affect it... right?
Pics for your entertainment!

 

[Brokeazzlos]

As for adjustable links... You install the first one and bolt it down, then the other one is adjusted to the point where it lines up with the swaybar hole centered. Tighten and done.
The second one should just slide in.

 

[Brokeazzlos]

Also if you are lifted you are supposed to use a longer link (2nd gen? ) which is about an inch longer. So you should adjust yours about that length and not stock length

 

[bagelsjustbagels]

As for adjustable links... You install the first one and bolt it down, then the other one is adjusted to the point where it lines up with the swaybar hole centered. Tighten and done.
The second one should just slide in.

Also if you are lifted you are supposed to use a longer link (2nd gen? ) which is about an inch longer. So you should adjust yours about that length and not stock length

I had noooo idea about that.
Should both links be the same length? because when I installed they were not. It is the adjsutable longer link. Is there any way some one can tell me the exact measured length suggested?
I have the 3" overland springs so I should do this.

This is very good information. thank you! Now how am I supposed to line up the sway bar hole though? Do you mean keeping the end links vertical?

Also, I bought Full threaded bolts to replace the stock, this shouldnt matter right? I plan to drill the bolt and add a cotter pin to prevent this crap from happening again.

 

[Brokeazzlos]

The links don't necessarily need to be exactly the same length. Just adjust your first one about 1.25" longer than stock and install. The other side just adjust to where it slides into the swaybar hole (without nhaving to touch the swaybar) centered wich means slides right in without hitting the swaybar and tighten.

When doing the second link it should be tightened at the upper mount (car)

 

[Brokeazzlos]

You don't want to have one link pulling or pushing in any direction. It should be even.

 

[bagelsjustbagels]

The links don't necessarily need to be exactly the same length. Just adjust your first one about 1.25" longer than stock and install. The other side just adjust to where it slides into the swaybar hole (without nhaving to touch the swaybar) centered wich means slides right in without hitting the swaybar and tighten.

When doing the second link it should be tightened at the upper mount (car)

So confirm the process...
-strap axle in place.
-disconnect driver side link, from the axle and the chassis
-Disconnect passenger side link from the axle
-install driver side link to be 1.25" longer than stock. Secure body and axle mount.
-Unstrap the axle
-Now "line up" the Passenger side link, but adjusting so that the link slides in without contacting the sway bar
....Does this look correct?

 

[Silver4RunnerIS300]

Get it on an alignment rack for all 4 wheels... you could eye it but really you should be using a rack.

 

[bagelsjustbagels]

Get it on an alignment rack for all 4 wheels... you could eye it but really you should be using a rack.

Yea that's my problem.... In theory, none of the links came undone, just a bolt came out, and then was replaced. So in theory....none of the geometry should have changed..

This is how i installed it before, without the 1.25 inch increase...

 

[Silver4RunnerIS300]

Now I'm wondering how mine are. When I installed mine I can't remember if I extended the links. I did however adjust them when on the alignment rack but that was so long ago. Hmm... I'll have to evaluate how mine are adjusted.

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[Brokeazzlos]

No need for a rack. It can be done on any flat surface

 

[Brokeazzlos]

So confirm the process...
-strap axle in place.
-disconnect driver side link, from the axle and the chassis
-Disconnect passenger side link from the axle
-install driver side link to be 1.25" longer than stock. Secure body and axle mount.
-Unstrap the axle
-Now "line up" the Passenger side link, but adjusting so that the link slides in without contacting the sway bar
....Does this look correct?

Unstrap the axle? Idk what that means. I do it with the tires on the ground.

 

[bagelsjustbagels]

Unstrap the axle? Idk what that means. I do it with the tires on the ground.

So hold up. No need for a rack then? i can do this shit on the ground and without ratcheting the axle in place?

How do I know its going to settle in the correct alignment?

 

[Troymclure]

Also, I bought Full threaded bolts to replace the stock, this shouldnt matter right? I plan to drill the bolt and add a cotter pin to prevent this crap from happening again.

I wouldnt use a full threaded bolt. The thread portions is weaker than the shanked (unthreaded) part. And since the threaded portion is a bit smaller, it can move around and wear out the holes and bushing sleeve

 

[gm350reratliff]

Do you have adjustable upper links as well? In theory, adjusting the lower links an inch longer sounds like a good idea but it will change the pinion angle which could cause a vibration. You could always just adjust them shorter if a vibration occurs.

I'm going to guess that somehow, someway the thrust angle changed by that bolt falling out. Did it wallow out the hole in the frame? Are you using a correct size bolt? This would be why the wheel is centered on one side and not the other. You could find a few matching points on each side of the frame and measure to the axle to get the thrust angle sort of right or you can put the 4runner on an alignment rack and dial it in perfect. Also, I would start using some Locktite on those bolts.

 

[sonerick]

Unstrap the axle? Idk what that means. I do it with the tires on the ground.

Sounds like this guy ^ is talking about rear sway bar end links.

I think the OP is talking about rear lower links.

Two different animals. End links can be installed as Brokeazzlos describes. Rear lower links should really be installed with the truck on a rack. Theoretically your geometry shouldn't have changed since you just put a new bolt in, but sounds like it's not driving so well so maybe it did change a bit.

 

[bagelsjustbagels]

Do you have adjustable upper links as well? In theory, adjusting the lower links an inch longer sounds like a good idea but it will change the pinion angle which could cause a vibration. You could always just adjust them shorter if a vibration occurs.

I'm going to guess that somehow, someway the thrust angle changed by that bolt falling out. Did it wallow out the hole in the frame? Are you using a correct size bolt? This would be why the wheel is centered on one side and not the other. You could find a few matching points on each side of the frame and measure to the axle to get the thrust angle sort of right or you can put the 4runner on an alignment rack and dial it in perfect. Also, I would start using some Locktite on those bolts.

I cant seem to find a place to order some stock bolts (and nuts). Any idea? I need bolts for... lets just say the upper links and the lower links. might as well replace them all.

 

[Drunner97]

I cant seem to find a place to order some stock bolts (and nuts). Any idea? I need bolts for... lets just say the upper links and the lower links. might as well replace them all.

Stealership?

 

[Brokeazzlos]

Sounds like this guy ^ is talking about rear sway bar end links.

I think the OP is talking about rear lower links.

Two different animals. End links can be installed as Brokeazzlos describes. Rear lower links should really be installed with the truck on a rack. Theoretically your geometry shouldn't have changed since you just put a new bolt in, but sounds like it's not driving so well so maybe it did change a bit.

makes sense now. I was talking about the endlinks :/
sorry man!

 

[Silver4RunnerIS300]

Part numbers are sometimes on the bolts or you could check the manual for the part number. Should be an illustrated parts breakdown somewhere on the net.

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