Manual Transmission 97 4runner listing recommendation

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ViaPhoenix

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Hey all-

Wasn't sure if I should post this here or in the classifies, let me know if I should move this over there.

So my dad has a friend with more cars than parking spaces and needs to move a car, he is looking to sell his 4runner. I was curious what you all thought would be best to list this at. Looking around on the Phoenix CL and other listing pages, prices are all over the place, some down at $2k an others that are over $5k for a 2wd stock rig. Of course I can only see asking prices and never know the sale prices. I figure listing it at $2.5-3k it would sell really quick if needs to really get rid of it quick, or list at $4.5-5k and see what he can get. What are your thoughts?

This is the information I currently have about the vehicle:
  • 1997 SR5
  • Runs
  • 190k miles
  • manual trans
  • 4WD
  • non-locker
  • stock setup
  • silver
  • new clutch
  • "didn't notice any major body damage" -pops
  • (3/28)Second owner, Purchased 1998 @ Camelback Toyota with 17K miles
  • (3/28)"Unlikely any rust" -pops
  • (3/28)A/C replaces ~12 months ago
  • (3/28)NEEDS Brake Booster

Possible photos coming soon.
 
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ViaPhoenix said:
Hey all-

Wasn't sure if I should post this here or in the classifies, let me know if I should move this over there.

So my dad has a friend with more cars than parking spaces and needs to move a car, he is looking to sell his 4runner. I was curious what you all thought would be best to list this at. Looking around on the Phoenix CL and other listing pages, prices are all over the place, some down at $2k an others that are over $5k for a 2wd stock rig. Of course I can only see asking prices and never know the sale prices. I figure listing it at $2.5-3k it would sell really quick if needs to really get rid of it quick, or list at $4.5-5k and see what he can get. What are your thoughts?

This is the information I currently have about the vehicle:
  • 1997 SR5
  • Runs
  • 190k miles
  • manual trans
  • 4WD
  • non-locker
  • stock setup
  • silver
  • new clutch
  • "didn't notice any major body damage" -pops
Click to expand...

In the current market and a with a little patience it could sell for $7,500 if you can list it in front of a national audience. If it turns out to be a 'rust-free Arizona truck' and the interior is solid it would fetch more and quite easily on BaT. Get it detailed, be his sales agent and take a nice cut of the profits, son.
 
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I bought essentially this same exact setup minus the new clutch for $5750 and felt like I was getting a steal. People were calling him with sight-unseen offers for more than he was asking while I was looking at it. I would think he could get $6000-$7000 almost immediately. More if he's willing to have it on the market for a bit.
 
Run it for $8K or $8.5K, let them beat you down to $7K or $7.5K. That truck is---on paper--- gold in todays market. If they hit you with "whatabout this and I'm concerned about that", tell them, politely of course, that they don't have to buy it, and that someone else probably soon will. CL should be fine; don't bother with Auto Trader, etc. Even out-of-towners looking for a specific vehicle search CL in other cities. Be sure to insist that you speak to them "live" on the phone before they come---that should weed out at least some of the internet time-wasters who don't show up.
 
I agree that you could get around 8k for it if it’s cleaned up and you take some good pictures of it

190k is baby mileage
 
Wow! Thanks for everyone's input! I should reconsider my wife's 96 manual transmission 4Runner with a new clutch, considering the listing prices mentioned here. It's still a daily car at 240K miles but with a few parking lot dings/rash by others, nice paint patina, the 4WD transfer is slow to release back to 2WD now, some dash light burned-out, and minor oil consumption. As long as it still passes the strict California smog check, it has my respect, and will do my best to keep it running.
 
Same truck Green/Auto/180k . . . 2yrs ago $1500
Grey/5spd/118k . . . now $5000 :wtf:

BaT always is crazy money..:der:
 
All- Thanks for your responses, I would have checked back in sooner, but I thought I set it up to get an email every time this thread gets responded, but only got an email after the first response.

I did get some updates from pops today, and add them here as well as OP.

Second owner, bought from camelback toyota in 1998 with 17,000 miles (~190K currently), doesnt think there is any rust, AC system replaced ~1 year ago, needs a new brake booster. I just replaced mine with a part from a junk yard in tucson (ace pick up parts) for ~120 shipped, got new gaskets from toyo dealer for like $3, and replaced it myself.

I have definitely seen listings north of 10K in the phoenix area, but usually those were pristine rigs generally with decent upgrades, but you never see the sale price on offerup/Craiglists, but I do know any rig under $4k was selling in under an hour at times. ( I was heavily watching the market for about 8 months looking for a parts rig with an Elocker to swap over finally got mine for $2500 :), which I finally finished the swap 2 weeks ago, )
 
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ViaPhoenix said:
All- Thanks for your responses, I would have checked back in sooner, but I thought I set it up to get an email every time this thread gets responded, but only got an email after the first response.

I did get some updates from pops today, and add them here as well as OP.

Second owner, bought from camelback toyota in 1998 with 17,000 miles, doesnt think there is any rust, AC system replaced ~1 year ago, needs a new brake booster. I just replaced mine with a part from a junk yard in tucson (ace pick up parts) for ~120 shipped, got new gaskets from toyo dealer for like $3, and replaced it myself.

I have definitely seen listings north of 10K in the phoenix area, but usually those were pristine rigs generally with decent upgrades, but you never see the sale price on offerup/Craiglists, but I do know any rig under $4k was selling in under an hour at times. ( I was heavily watching the market for about 8 months looking for a parts rig with an Elocker to swap over finally got mine for $2500 :), which I finally finished the swap 2 weeks ago, )
Click to expand...


Uh, did you mean 170,000 miles? If it's 17k, the sky's the limit! If I misread that, how many miles now?
 
...8 Months later...

Alright, update time!! My dad took Title of this in Late August, and i have been working on it when I can since and we are finally ready to put it on the market. I have taken 4 weeks of vacation and worked on my own 4runner some, so it lead to taking a while to clean up.

First Photos of the finished product, then a list of what we did, and finally punchlist items for the next owner.

Exterior Walk Around

Interior

Engine Bay

"Arizona" undercarriage

Our Work:

  • Windowshield replaced
  • Cruise Control/Horn didnt work, so replaced clock spring with Junk Yard (JY) part
  • Reverse back up switch (OEM part)
  • Converted dome/map lights to LED
  • Rear end gears were toast, replaced with JY 3rd member
  • replaced axle seals (OEM) with 3rd member swap
  • Rear diff Oil with Red Line synthetic and topped off transfer case too
  • Oil/Filter changed synthetic
  • Hood release cable was stretched, replaced with cabled from JY
  • Found better JY rear seats/carpet and cleaned them some with carpet shampooer
  • Re-upholstered front seats and cleaned with carpet shampooer
  • JY Brake Booster and OEM gaskets
  • New Costco windshield wipers
  • JY Driver sideview mirror
  • Hood was primer black aftermarket hood after a hood not latched properly incident, Replaced with clear coat damaged hood from JY that color matched.
  • Found good rear hatch struts in JY so i replaced those.
  • Driver inner CV boot was torn, cleaned and replaced with OEM boot/grease
  • Steering rack bushing were just the metal sleeves, replaced with Energy Suspension poly bushings
  • Front sway bar bushings were damaged replaced with prothane poly bushings
  • Tie rod boots were ripped both sides, replaced with OEM boots
  • Battery was dead, so i put my ~year old durlast battery in this and bought myself a new one :)

Punchlist

  • Tires are bad, need to be replace immediately, we would have, but figured next owner will have the own idea for wheels/tires/size/etc (same reason i didnt really inspect shocks/springs)
  • LBJ and UBJ boots are cracked/split, I am not good enough to know if they need to be replaced or just rebooted, but they need to be addressed
  • I think the UCA bushings are toast, will need to be replaced soon
  • I have tightened the valve covers a couple times (at least the bolts you can get to without tearing down the intake plenums) and it leaks less now, but still leaks, valve cover gasket job should be completed
  • I didnt look at Timing Belt, but previous Owner says he had it done at 144k miles, so just based on milage should be looked to replacing in the next 10k miles.
  • Front brake lines are starting to crack, I would replace sooner than later
 
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