Marlin Crawler TacoBox for our 5th gens

bigdaddy2021

New member
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Update: Post #12:
Installed, test driven, tested in Low-Low. Freakin' AMAZING....so stoked.

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Crawl ratio Calculator
Marlin Crawler.com > Dual Case > Determine your Crawl Ratio

With our 3.73's we go from 33:1 to 157:1 in Low-Low

Built units currently available
TacoBox | Marlin Crawler, Inc.


From Marlin's site:

We have gathered a few dozen core t/cases to bring back fully-built TacoBox Dual Case Units for a limited time!!

These TacoBox Units are built using adapters from our sister brand, Inchworm, and feature our Marlin Crawler 4.70:1 Low Range Gear Set, Marlin Crawler Double Roll bearing, Marlin Crawler 52% stronger HD Lower Cage Bearing, Marlin Crawler Dished Coupler, Marlin Crawler EcoSeal, Refurbished Toyota Shift Handles, Marlin Crawler Shift Knob, High Quality JIS Hardware, and everything needed to bolt into your rig! Hand-built in-house and ready for installation!

What is the TacoBox?
The TacoBox is a compact reduction unit based on the famous 28-year time-proven Marlin Crawler Dual Case 'Crawl Box' design and is inserted between your transmission and transfer case. To achieve this, front & rear adapters are used to convert the bolt patterns of both your transmission and transfer case. The front adapter is based on our 25% stronger 5/8" thick USA-made Billet Aluminum Adapter to mate a Marlin Crawler Reduction Housing behind your 23- or 26-spline automatic or manual transmission. The rear adapter is based on our 6th generation USA-made Billet Aluminum MC09 Adapter which bolts to your original transfer case, and is fully clockable in 5° increments. The result is the Marlin Crawler TacoBox™, a fully assembled Dual Case Unit ready to be installed into 1995 and newer Toyota and Lexus 4WD drive trains.




I feel like i've done my research and this looks to be the install to expect:

1. Disconnect front and rear driveshafts
2. Disassemble center console, remove shifters as needed.
3. disconnect and remove tcase,
4. install tacobox - extend vacuum lines and plug harness
5. locate/create hole for shifter in center console - custom bend shifters to poke up where you want them. create or install shifter boot.
6. measure for and shorten/lengthen front and rear driveshafts.
7. Modify skid plates for new location of transfer case. Possibly reinforce tcase mounting system for longer setup
8. Install new shafts, top off fluids, function test
 
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Crawl ratio Calculator
Marlin Crawler.com > Dual Case > Determine your Crawl Ratio

With our 3.73's we go from 33:1 to 157:1 in Low-Low

Built units currently available
TacoBox | Marlin Crawler, Inc.


From Marlin's site:

We have gathered a few dozen core t/cases to bring back fully-built TacoBox Dual Case Units for a limited time!!

These TacoBox Units are built using adapters from our sister brand, Inchworm, and feature our Marlin Crawler 4.70:1 Low Range Gear Set, Marlin Crawler Double Roll bearing, Marlin Crawler 52% stronger HD Lower Cage Bearing, Marlin Crawler Dished Coupler, Marlin Crawler EcoSeal, Refurbished Toyota Shift Handles, Marlin Crawler Shift Knob, High Quality JIS Hardware, and everything needed to bolt into your rig! Hand-built in-house and ready for installation!

What is the TacoBox?
The TacoBox is a compact reduction unit based on the famous 28-year time-proven Marlin Crawler Dual Case 'Crawl Box' design and is inserted between your transmission and transfer case. To achieve this, front & rear adapters are used to convert the bolt patterns of both your transmission and transfer case. The front adapter is based on our 25% stronger 5/8" thick USA-made Billet Aluminum Adapter to mate a Marlin Crawler Reduction Housing behind your 23- or 26-spline automatic or manual transmission. The rear adapter is based on our 6th generation USA-made Billet Aluminum MC09 Adapter which bolts to your original transfer case, and is fully clockable in 5° increments. The result is the Marlin Crawler TacoBox™, a fully assembled Dual Case Unit ready to be installed into 1995 and newer Toyota and Lexus 4WD drive trains.




I feel like i've done my research and this looks to be the install to expect:

1. Disconnect front and rear driveshafts
2. Disassemble center console, remove shifters as needed.
3. disconnect and remove tcase,
4. install tacobox - extend vacuum lines and plug harness
5. locate/create hole for shifter in center console - custom bend shifters to poke up where you want them. create or install shifter boot.
6. measure for and shorten/lengthen front and rear driveshafts.
7. Modify skid plates for new location of transfer case. Possibly reinforce tcase mounting system for longer setup
8. Install new shafts, top off fluids, function test

Thanks for being the guinea pig on this. I think the end result will be absolutely incredible.

I'd be curious to see how you fab up mounts for the new Xfer case location. It would seem that would be a big challenge.
 
Thanks for being the guinea pig on this. I think the end result will be absolutely incredible.

I'd be curious to see how you fab up mounts for the new Xfer case location. It would seem that would be a big challenge.

Bro, i’m so freakin’ stoked. I WAS building a CJ with a possible 90:1 setup which would have been fine but not very streetable. This rig should still be 100% streetable and then 100% rock ready for some challenging trails. Still have to drive a bit conservative due to tire size limiting our clearance but we’re already talking about a a Moab 2.0 trip in 2023, among other trips.

Surreal that this is in our garage right now:
 

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Bro, i’m so freakin’ stoked. I WAS building a CJ with a possible 90:1 setup which would have been fine but not very streetable. This rig should still be 100% streetable and then 100% rock ready for some challenging trails. Still have to drive a bit conservative due to tire size limiting our clearance but we’re already talking about a a Moab 2.0 trip in 2023, among other trips.

Surreal that this is in our garage right now:

Super jealous, we did some really technical trails this past weekend and it was VERY clear to me that my crawl ratio is in the dumpster right now. I had to do so much two footing to keep things under control.

You will have to do a detailed DIY writeup for this one. I can see myself doing it. Stock gearing with a mean crawl ratio would be perfect.
 
Did you have to cut the floor at all other than maybe for shifter cable routing? When we installed my atlas 4 speed, we clocked it up as high as we could to maintain ground clearance. We therefore had to remove and rebuild the floor area under the driver seat and raise the front seat 2". For sure running the cables for the atlas was a challenge. They come up through the floor and make the bend up close to the fire wall and then back to the 3 shifters.

Regardless of all that work the end result is unbelievable. You will no doubt be pleased.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
Here’s the first pics i have of the install
 

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No cables on the tacobox.

No metalwork involved other than the new shifter opening and then relocating a few electrical connector mounts.

Shifter is direct to the unit, and the shifter for the tcase gets pushed back further into the center console. It’s there you have to create an opening for the tcase shifter stalk.

See pics above.


Did you have to cut the floor at all other than maybe for shifter cable routing? When we installed my atlas 4 speed, we clocked it up as high as we could to maintain ground clearance. We therefore had to remove and rebuild the floor area under the driver seat and raise the front seat 2". For sure running the cables for the atlas was a challenge. They come up through the floor and make the bend up close to the fire wall and then back to the 3 shifters.

Regardless of all that work the end result is unbelievable. You will no doubt be pleased.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
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Im doing this but havent seen or heard of anyone thats had it installed. anyone hve pics of the install?

I’ll post up a bunch of pics soon, but here’s some known info at this point:

1. New driveshafts required (front lengthened/rear shortened)
2. No fuel tank interference.
3. Aftermarket skids likely need to be trimmed.
4. 5th gen trans and tcase shifter locations are easily accommodated with this mod.
5. New shifter boot needs to be sourced to cover hole in the coin slot.
 
I was pumped when I saw that they brought this out for the 5th gens, It is definitely on my mod list, glad someone has already done this to give us some pointers!!
 
Installed pics.

Install moves the tcase back and usually requires trimming skid/belly plates:
 

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Passenger side, showing new position and our fresh rear driveshaft. This install doesn't create clearance issues with the fuel tank or the exhaust system as far as we or the installer can tell.
 

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And here's a view above our belly skid of the Tacobox.

A couple notes:

1. Generous clearance around the exhaust system
2. transmission tunnel had to be massaged conservatively in a few spots with a BFH. No cutting required.
3. I think we will likely look into adding a secondary support to the tacobox (it's designed for one) if we start tackling tougher trails - just to reinforce our drivetrain.

You can also see our fresh front driveshaft:
 

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And finally, a fresh interior shot, with it all back together.

Driving impressions:

  • it drives 100% like it did prior to the mod. The Tacobox is completely transparent on the road.

  • The new driveshafts have zero vibes up to about 70mph, which is a normal cruising speed on long trips for us. We stick to about 65mph on local trips.

  • We are getting a very, very, very quiet rotational buzz that will get a bit quieter when we install our shifter boot. Talked to the installer and MC about this and both think it could be a break-in noise, or a contact noise between the crawlbox and the body - it's extremely minimal. We'll monitor and see what it does. Can't hear it with the radio on low. Goes away completely when you pull backwards on the shift lever.

  • Crawl Low and Tcase high - 60:1 or so, is VERY impressive
    Crawl Low and Tcase Low - 150:1 or so, is INCREDIBLE
 

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I know I am weird but MPG?

This sounds like such a great modification for all of our 4runners. I am curious about 2 things though. In theory adding some well lubricated unloaded gears shouldn't have a significant impact on daily fuel economy but I would love to see proof in the real world. More interestingly, how does the automatic feel with that much torque? I could imagine even at idle that much torque multiplication might try to over power the brakes a bit.
 
This sounds like such a great modification for all of our 4runners. I am curious about 2 things though. In theory adding some well lubricated unloaded gears shouldn't have a significant impact on daily fuel economy but I would love to see proof in the real world. More interestingly, how does the automatic feel with that much torque? I could imagine even at idle that much torque multiplication might try to over power the brakes a bit.

Great questions!

1. I'll monitor my fuel mileage now that it's installed. I was getting about 15-16 average before with a roof rack, 33's and a lead foot.

2. it ABSOLUTELY wants to drive through the brakes at idle in Low-Low. I can stand on them and get it to stop though. It's very controllable and you probably can guess, the speed that it idles is VERY predictable and SLOOOOW. iT doesn't inspire the same type of fear as an engine that wants to diesel after the ignition shuts off or an engine with the carb stuck open. Kind of the opposite end of the spectrum.

If I went to 4.56's or 4.88's I honestly don't know if I could stop it. More like slow it down and shift into neutral. :)
 
I'm glad I am not crazy. Most of marlin crawlers videos are their manual tacoma. I know it can/has been done to auto's but nobody seem to talk about them much. Note to self: Use 60:1 not 150:1 for hill decent.
 
This is such an awesome development for those of us who are looking a much more controlled ride over technical terrain. Thanks for the Guinea Pig and paving the way. I’m really looking forward to seeing some crawl videos off-road soon!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm glad I am not crazy. Most of marlin crawlers videos are their manual tacoma. I know it can/has been done to auto's but nobody seem to talk about them much. Note to self: Use 60:1 not 150:1 for hill decent.

Nah, I think you'd be ok in 150:1, just have to plan a few feet (2-3' maybe) in front of you for the disengagement process.

Like I said, the extremely SLOW speed you'd be travelling along with a very robust transmission/driveline and our uber reliable EFI engines i think would ADD more confidence than any worry about driving through your brakes would detract.

We'll get'r onto the trail in the next week or two and give you some objective info, though.
 

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