Metaltech bumper premature rust. Anyone else?

[caspian45]

My MetalTech front bumper is about 2 months old. There are already signs of rust coming through the powdercoat where there are welds.

My buddy stopped by with his 3 week old MetalTech front bumper and he has the same thing happening.

Does anyone else have this issue and if so, how bad will it get and how long until it bubbles up if it does.

Based on my limited of welding and coating, I would guess this is an issue with poor metal preparation prior to powder coating. I am hoping that MetalTech sends it off for that and this is not a reflection on them.

I will e-mail them and see what they think.

Caspian

 

[<<<<]

I've powdercoated Shrockworks for 4 years now with no rust issues. Prep on your MetalTech was probably done too soon before powdecoat and metal oxidized. Have them redo it.

 

[Panzerpatty]

My SSO rear is rusting after 2 weeks and my Demello front was rusting after 2 months. I really wished I had just opted to powdercoat locally because the cost of return shipping will be more than to just pay for it myself.

 

[caspian45]

I got Pelfrey sliders and got them unfinished. I busted my ass sanding them down and priming with etching primer then a few coats of Rustolium bed liner spray. If my DIY finish lasts longer on sliders than "professional" powder coat, i'll be pissed.
Chris

 

[Engineer]

My SSO rear is rusting after 2 weeks and my Demello front was rusting after 2 months. I really wished I had just opted to powdercoat locally because the cost of return shipping will be more than to just pay for it myself.

Around the welds? My SSO front is doing that on the welds that connect the hoop. I cleans up easy but comes right back. Debating on long term solution

 

[JSparky]

I got Pelfrey sliders and got them unfinished. I busted my ass sanding them down and priming with etching primer then a few coats of Rustolium bed liner spray. If my DIY finish lasts longer on sliders than "professional" powder coat, i'll be pissed.
Chris

"Busted my ass" is the operative word here. I did the same exact method on a bare metal All Pro bed rack for a Tacoma. It was such a pain that when the basket for it came in we just had it powdercoated. The different in durability is substantial, I'll never rattle can something like that again. After all the prep is said and done I don't think powwdercoat is that much more $$ either.


I'd be surprised if Metaltech doesn't offer some compensation if you document what's going on and contact them, errors happen sometimes.

 

[cstraface]

I had CBI front and back hybrids on my 3rd gen, with powder coating done by CBI and I had rust around edges and welds after a few months. Easy fix to prevent continued rusting is to spray seams, welds, and edges with a few coats of clear. Better yet, do it before you mount it up.

But I also have rust around the edges of my trailer hitch on my 2016 that hasn't even seen one full winter yet...what gives? Metal is going to rust if you live in a wet/humid climate, especially if salt/sand is used in the winters.

 

[BlacknTan]

Carbon Steel + Moisture + RUST.

Welcome to the world of aftermarket "performance" parts. There are better alloys for these applications, but it would drive up costs considerably. But, the component would have the same strength at less weight, and increased corrosion resistance.

But, everyone shops price.

Pay me now, or pay me later ...

 

[caspian45]

"Busted my ass" is the operative word here. I did the same exact method on a bare metal All Pro bed rack for a Tacoma. It was such a pain that when the basket for it came in we just had it powdercoated. The different in durability is substantial, I'll never rattle can something like that again. After all the prep is said and done I don't think powwdercoat is that much more $$ either.
I'd be surprised if Metaltech doesn't offer some compensation if you document what's going on and contact them, errors happen sometimes.

Time will tell. I will be VERY disappointed if my sanding/alcohol rubdown rattle can does better than the "factory" powder coat.

FWIW, I ran N-Fab nerf bars for a longer period of time than the front bumper from MetalTech and there was ZERO rust on my nerf bars and rust on my bumper. Nerf bars take much more of a beating than the front bumper welds. I'm not buying it.

 

[Vinsil]

What did Metaltech say? I'd be shocked if they didn't take care of you.

FYI they farm out the coating. Not excusing the rust or poor coating but I know my sliders are extremely well coated and have been in wet/snow weather pretty solid for the last 4 months and no hint of the coating failing.

 

[caspian45]

They have yet to respond to my email. ugg...correspondence would be nice.

That being said, I am running a MetalTech front bumper with their factory finish, my Pelfrey bare steel with my rattle can and a Shrockworks rear bumper. It will be interesting to see what a 1 year review does.

Just by looks of the welds and initial look of the finish, i think Shrockworks is the winner. Time will tell.

 

[Vinsil]

Call them. I had poor luck emailing them, calling and helocat responds to PM's on the board as well.

 

[wfo9]

This is very common... It's very unusual for a powder coater to actually do the job 100% correctly to avoid this. Often times.. welds need to be cleaned up after initial sand blasting (grinding will hide porosity in the surface). Also, the coating needs to be done immediately after blasting.

They will most likely not fix it.. your best bet is to use some type of chassis prep that is much more forgiving than powder coating when it comes to rust by bonding with moisture.

Shockworks has been doing fab for a long time and does amazing work... you will have a hard time finding similar quality in other products... but then again. It's just a hunk of metal.