MPG suggestions

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wrpsuite

New member
Aside from taking it easy on the throttle I'm wondering about how to improve my MPG. Since I got my 01 4x4 I've averaged about 16-17 mpg and wonder if there is a anything I can do to get a boost? I've switched between lo grade and mid grade fuel without any real effect. Is this the best I can expect? Thanks
 
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Tire size makes a big difference. It really depends a lot on where you live too (assuming that your engine runs great). I can get 18 on the flat open highway now, loaded down with gear and a buddy even. And Actually I'm getting about 19 because my speedometer reads about 6-7% slow compared to GPS due to my 285s and 4.88s.

However, I live in the mountains and only drive <5 miles to work on curvy roads that change elevation all over the place. If I go through a tank doing nothing but that kind of driving, I get about 14 mpg.

How many miles do you have on it and what kind of service has it had?
 
tune up mpg

haven't done anything yet except install Kenwood 6960. Planning on doing the Air/ Fuel Filters, PVC , Plugs (any suggestions), Wires and swapping all fluids to Synthetic.

Bought this with 50k so once I get to 53k 'll get in there and take care of this stuff which may help.

What gas are you folks running? Any suggestions on plugs would be great. Also I'll clean the intake and see if she's ready for seafoam. That stuff helped my Lexus make it 240k before we parted ways..
 
Tire air pressure helps, maybe a new muffler, change the filters, Spark Plugs and wires, and light on the throttle and cruise at around 60mph (100kmh).
 
Even doing all the suggested maintenance,deckplate and such the reality is the majority of 3rd gen V6 4wds average 15mpg on the low end and 22 on the high so you're probably not going to see a big increase but the best suggestion is take it easy on the gas pedal.

I average a low of 14 in the city in the winter with using a bit of 4wd but in the summer that same city mpg is up to 17-18 and I've gotten about 21-23 on the highway. I am a little heavy on the pedal so some people might see a bit more some might see less.
 
spark plugs

thanks for the article, might tackle that tomorrow looks easy enough. What plugs are you folks recommending, is it worth gettingthe premium from ngk or denso or dare the normal ones sufficient. I noticed the Denso normal class have dual grounds where both ngk and denso iridium have one ground? Is it worth the extra cash?
 
Cruising on highway...65 tops. Sweet spot is ~45mph...not attainable on freeway, but some county roads you can do this without putting others in danger.

In town, it's ALL about staying off the brakes! The more you are on the brakes, the less efficient you are driving. Simple as that. If you find yourself on the brakes a lot...you're not coasting enough, and you're not looking far enough ahead to estimate light changes, etc. It makes a big difference in town.
 
Between the 2 choices, i say get the NGK's, when i pulled my plugs out, the NGK's were in way better condition than the Densos. The speed is debatable on what the best MPG's are, it is a a balance between Rev's and Speed, From my tests i have noticed 55 to 60 results in best MPG, but then again, i have a manual.
 
16-17 isn't bad...

What kind of driving is yielding the 16-17 you're getting? Because if you're getting 16-17 in the city, I want to know exactly how you drive so I can do it too! :D I'm lucky to break 15mpg in the city.

My Taco could easily get 16-18 in the city but I credit that to the fact that the Taco had a 5 speed and my 4runner has a slushbox (like yours.)
 
I consistently get 18 doing mostly city driving. It's all about anticipating stops, and getting to cruising speeds efficiently. This DOES NOT mean slowly. There is a common misconception that accelerating as slowly as possibly saves fuel. Plugging in a Scangauge immediately proves that theory wrong. Ideally, you want to accelerate moderately, and get to a "cruising" or low-throttle state as soon as possible. That may be 30 mph for 3 blocks until the next stop.

Think of it this way: Accelerating slowly for 10 seconds you'll see your fuel efficiency (FE) start at about 5mpg and reach about 17mpg by the time you've hit 30mph. That's an average FE of 11mpg, assuming you accelerate at a steady rate. Now accelerate moderately, so it takes you 5 seconds to reach 30mph. You'll see you start at about 5mpg, and end at 17mpg, but once you've reached 30mph, you can release the throttle significantly...reaching FE's in the 30's. Your average just jumped by several MsPG. I've tested this, and it works.

Also, delete your roof rack if you don't use it. It's not much, but it does increase the overall drag coefficient of your truck. I went a step further and removed the "deflector" off the back door as well...which really only acted as an air brake.
 
ethanol vs non-ethanol

The biggest difference I have seen has been using non-ethanol gas vs 10% ethanol gas, that is, if you can find it. It makes a 1-1.5 mpg difference in mine. I have run 87 and 89 non-ethanol and it does not make much, if any, difference.
 
Qyota said:
I consistently get 18 doing mostly city driving. It's all about anticipating stops, and getting to cruising speeds efficiently. This DOES NOT mean slowly. There is a common misconception that accelerating as slowly as possibly saves fuel. Plugging in a Scangauge immediately proves that theory wrong. Ideally, you want to accelerate moderately, and get to a "cruising" or low-throttle state as soon as possible. That may be 30 mph for 3 blocks until the next stop.

Think of it this way: Accelerating slowly for 10 seconds you'll see your fuel efficiency (FE) start at about 5mpg and reach about 17mpg by the time you've hit 30mph. That's an average FE of 11mpg, assuming you accelerate at a steady rate. Now accelerate moderately, so it takes you 5 seconds to reach 30mph. You'll see you start at about 5mpg, and end at 17mpg, but once you've reached 30mph, you can release the throttle significantly...reaching FE's in the 30's. Your average just jumped by several MsPG. I've tested this, and it works.

Also, delete your roof rack if you don't use it. It's not much, but it does increase the overall drag coefficient of your truck. I went a step further and removed the "deflector" off the back door as well...which really only acted as an air brake.
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Great info, thanks! Do you have a pic of your rear with the "air brake" removed? I have looked at it and there are 2 brackets with I think 2 screws each so I assume there are holes that need to be filled somehow? Keep in mind I have only glanced at it but I would like to see what it looks like and how you accomplished it.
 
Bump N Run said:
I took my rear deflector off for a while and noticed alot more dirt on the back. Put it back on and it was alot cleaner again. I also read something about exhaust fumes coming inside the back window when it is down with it off. Maybe try it out and see. I like mine on.
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The fumes are strong on a cold start up or while you're flooring it. But normal driving and idling I cannot smell any fumes
 
The deflector is *mildly* effective at keeping the rear end cleaner. I noticed zero difference, simply because I'm so rarely off road.

hockey - there are 3 bolts on each side holding the brackets to the body of the door. I just bought some shorter stainless bolts and washers and put them back in the holes with a little silicone sealant. No issues.
 
Bump N Run said:
Like I said. Take off and see. Im never off road and mine looked like someone dumped a bucket of dirt on the back a few days after washing it. Put it back on and it was clean for a month. I have had my rig for 8 years. I know it like the back of my hand.
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At what point does a 4Runner become a "rig"? I've often pondered that thought. But, I digress.

Anyway, my apologies to you for living in such a dirty area! I guess I'm lucky to have relatively clean air around here. Without the deflector, my rear end looks as clean as the rest of the vehicle at any given time. :wink2:
 
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