My first 4Runner (1990)

akeonstar

New member
Hi, My name is Chris, First time posting, although I've been lurking for about a month or two. I've decided I'm going to cataloge my adventure fixing the 4runner I bought last week. Short about me. I'm 22, work, go to school ect.... I have a little experience with Vehicles(cars and suvs) I have a decent amount of experience with motorcycles. So this is my adventure into fixing Cars/Suvs.

Here's what I know about it so far. I bought it from a tow company, It had been sitting for anywhere from 1-2 years. :( But it started right up, seems to work just fine. It does. Gets me from point A to point B no problem. But still, If it has been sitting there, I know I need to do some maintenance.

Stats -
1990 V6 Auto, 4x4 Red :O
181,000 on the car. From what I can tell, stock suspension
Pretty much stock everything, Except the front fender and some custom scratching/dents.

The Cons:
Having issues passing smog
+$400 in dmv fees :(
no radio, just an empty space..
It sags to the right.


More importantly, Pics!

5YvrIl.jpg


3E0a5l.jpg
 
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opening post done, okay.


I did the oil and oil filter yesterday. nothing super to note there.
When I changed the spark plugs however...

I found 3 different types in there...


There was also a fair amount of this oil/grime stuff on #4. Is that something to be worried about? that section of the engine by #4 did have quite a bit more grime on it than the others.
High res here ---> imgur: the simple image sharer


plugs are cylinder order
2------1
4------3
6------5
SRchgl.jpg
 
Welcome to the forum!

The sagging to the right is worn out springs on the gas tank side due, to it carrying more of the weight.

Because its a v6, call the dealer to make sure the headgasket recall was done and check to make sure the valve cover gaskets aren't leaking.

Its probably a good idea to change the transmission filter and fluid, along with the front and rear differential fluid.

The v6 is a great motor. Dont let the haters tell you otherwise.
 
Okay, week 1 and I'm already running into amazing problems. I've been trying to set the timing on it, and I think I messed up the timing more.

So, It was running fine before hand. well, short on power a bit, but not tooo much. Now I went to time it, it says to time it at ~800 rpm in Neutral. I had to adjust my idle to get it down to 800. And now it's timed "correctly" the 10 degrees thing, But when i kick it into drive or reverse it drops to sub 500RPM and almost dies. And I lost a lot of power. Any thoughts?
 
Okay, week 1 and I'm already running into amazing problems. I've been trying to set the timing on it, and I think I messed up the timing more.

So, It was running fine before hand. well, short on power a bit, but not tooo much. Now I went to time it, it says to time it at ~800 rpm in Neutral. I had to adjust my idle to get it down to 800. And now it's timed "correctly" the 10 degrees thing, But when i kick it into drive or reverse it drops to sub 500RPM and almost dies. And I lost a lot of power. Any thoughts?

Have you tried turning the idle up a bit so when you put it into gear the idle will be perfect?. I have a classic mustang (auto) and I have to do that. My idle will be a bit high when in park or neutral, but when it is in gear it idles where it should.
 
I tried that, The engine just doesn't seem to want to stay idling in the same place. It will jump around alot, 500rpm one day, 900 the next. If it helps at all, when it's really cold is the worst. I work at night, and where I it's 60-70 during the day, and drops in the low 30s at night.

Now correct me if I'm wrong here, but since i'm having issues with power while running, that a separate issue? well maybe the power issue is linked the my poor idle because exhaust? or could messing with the idle screw mess up my whole engine power?
 
Stupid question maybe, but when you set the timing did you disable the computer? Dunno how to do it on the 3vze, but my 22re has a diagnostic port you jump to disable the spark advance so you can set the timing correctly - if you don't, your timing will be way off (causing loss of power) and your idle won't be right either...
 
Damn. Well to maybe provide more information on this issue.

If it's cold, I can go from about 10% throttle to 80% with very little change in engine rpm.

I'm setting my timing off of a mark the smog guy put on there, because me and him couldn't find the mark that is supposed to be there.. so I need to look into that.

When I bought it, it was running. cold wasn't an issue, it defiantly lacked power, but not like this. I feel I've made it worse, even though I've replaced spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap. and "timed" it correctly.
 
I don't know if I'd trust a mark that the "smog guy" put there. You should have a small notch on the rear flange (while mounted) on your harmonic balancer (This is the pulley on the front of your crankshaft). Run your finger around the entire edge and see if you can find the notch. When you find it, mark it with a white paint pen.

Let us know if you find it.
 
So i checked the mark, Felt around on the crankshaft pulley, It is in the right spot. So what now? check my valve clearances? It running fine now i moved the rotor cap out. so the timing is really "off". any ideas? changed spark plugs, rotor and cap now.
 
So i checked the mark, Felt around on the crankshaft pulley, It is in the right spot. So what now? check my valve clearances? It running fine now i moved the rotor cap out. so the timing is really "off". any ideas? changed spark plugs, rotor and cap now.

Getting over my head, to be honest. Maybe try pulling the distributor, finding TDC, and restabbing it? Other than that, I'd check the troubleshooting guide in the factory service manual and see what it says. There's links in the stickies up top if you don't already have a copy.
 

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