My inexperience = blown front diff

Bijan

Bijan

New member
I was on a trail. Got stuck/wedged in a HUGE dry rut. I managed to get almost out, and then my front left wheel lost all traction. I believe it was airborne. I backed up...nothing. Put it in drive...gunned it a bit too hard...moved only about 2 feet...and then braked hard to stop the wheels from spinning (why did I react this way?) -- and POP....off goes my CV axle, and my 4wd barely worked. All kinds of teeth got chewed.

$700 later...new (used) front diff installed.

I didn't see that coming for sure - but also realize it was mostly my fault. I am curious if I should stop upgrading and learn to wheel properly....or keep building the sh!t out of it so it's Bijan-proof.

I want to keep this forever...and want it to be able to go anywhere (almost) and never get stuck. It is my daily driver but not for long. I plan on getting a Nissan Maxima as my daily.

Should I save for a SAS or TC LT LCAs w/ Tundra axles (TC) + removed sway bars...?

This was me right before I hit my brakes and shit broke...
 

Attachments

  • FullSizeRender (7).jpg
    FullSizeRender (7).jpg
    49.8 KB · Views: 810
Register to hide this ad
Bijan said:
I didn't see that coming for sure - but also realize it was mostly my fault. I am curious if I should stop upgrading and learn to wheel properly....or keep building the sh!t out of it so it's Bijan-proof.
Click to expand...



I feel like you answered your own question. Spend some time and money and take some courses on how to wheel your vehicle.
 
I try to avoid really spinning the wheels a lot, that's when things start to break (as you know haha), and if they are spinning don't slam on the brakes (as you now know too haha). Don't be afraid to get a tug out, winch out, or back up and try another line or turn around if need be.

I'd say just keep getting out there in your truck and wheeling and upgrade as you go. No need to park it and go completely insane on the suspension only to not be able to use the truck for 3 years while you get everything put together.
 
A $125 Bubba Rope will get you out of 95% of jams with MUCH less drama and broken parts. I'd get that and then just wheel the piss out of it as often as you can.

This site is often guilty of overloading our trucks with stuff we think we need to go off-roading. In the end, KISS prevails.
 
I would invest in a locker, and some sway bar disconnects for the front. the locker will give you more traction, and the sway bar disconnects will allow you front end to gain more traction and prevent wheel spin in most situations. also a spare cv for the trail is a good idea, and in case you do lift a tire, stack rocks.
 
I would stop buying stuff to build the truck until you're to the point where your truck is limiting your abilities. Honestly, I am not even to the point yet I don't think.

Another thing to consider is that with more experience you'll be able to be a better spotter for the others in your group.

Here's a picture of me a couple weeks ago. An inexperienced spotter had me a LONG way from the line I needed to be on, resulting in my rear sliding on some ice and down into this little stream. My rear bumper was sitting on a boulder with both rear tires off of the groud. Had I not had a winch, we'd have been in a bad situation.

3OZ9xHX.jpg


After I winched myself out of this spot I was able to spot the rest of our group. Not a single person got stuck, even with open differentials.

Shout out to [MENTION=82154]GSPRunner[/MENTION] for being too lazy to walk down the hill and spot me, and for this great picture.
 
Bijan said:
I was on a trail. Got stuck/wedged in a HUGE dry rut.

I want to keep this forever...and want it to be able to go anywhere (almost) and never get stuck.

Should I save for a SAS or TC LT LCAs w/ Tundra axles (TC) + removed sway bars...?
Click to expand...

Along with what others have said, SAS.

The IFS is always going to hold you back on the trail, and keep you worried about whats going to break next.
 
4 low and smooth and slow. There is a time when wheel speed is useful but most of the time it's just going to break stuff.
 
Everything breaks - even solid axles can break. If you wheel hard enough or neglect your hardware enough it will break. With that out of the way - I would invest in a rear locker. When you add that extra traction in back you will be amazed how much easier wheeling becomes and you can focus on technical instead of speed. I had to learn that lesson in my '87 4R after I almost rolled it because I hit a bad hill too fast. After the locker the hill was a joke.
 
cashmoney said:
4 low and smooth and slow. There is a time when wheel speed is useful but most of the time it's just going to break stuff.
Click to expand...

What are some examples where wheel spin is helpful? I see way too many people mash the gas pedal and spin their wheels all the way out of an obstacle.
 
Trying to bounce up a ledge. Little speed can help. And mud.

And I'm going to go against getting a rear locker right now. I was wheeling the other weekend where I was on 2 wheels teeter tottering and had no issues crawling through there and even got in to the same predicament you did (deep ruts, 3 wheeling) and had no issues crawling out and I'm open on both ends. Lockers are great but learn how to drive the vehicle first before spending the money on a locker. I was very impressed with how far mine got being open on both ends. Went every where my bil with a locked front jeep went.
 
Last edited:
Im huge into mountain biking and...

people always ask me whether to start off with a hard tail (only front suspension) or a duel suspension (front and rear).

While a duelly is much more capable and faster. I 100% of the time recommend hard tail. Why? Because that is where I became a great rider. It is the best, fastest, and most pure way to get your fundamentals down down down. which is important for anything

now I'm not saying you are a beginner but i see no reason to own a rig that makes mild trails boring and sloppy technique hidden.

do what you feel but look at your rig! looks bad as heck. with some experience, and it sounds like you just gained a good chunk of it, that thing will go most places you point it.

(and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point it)

-Fax
 
sucks to hear about the break. a bunch of us had trouble getting through that same spot.
took me four tries to find the right line.
lesson learned though and you'll be a better driver for it.
 
balanced rock road, west of monument off rampart range road
the washed out section was near the end just before the turn around point
 
FaxmachineSquared said:
now I'm not saying you are a beginner but i see no reason to own a rig that makes mild trails boring and sloppy technique hidden.

do what you feel but look at your rig! looks bad as heck. with some experience, and it sounds like you just gained a good chunk of it, that thing will go most places you point it.

(and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point and re-point it)

-Fax
Click to expand...

I was hoping the quality/integrity of TOYOTA was going to help my sloppy technique :hiding:

I have been on Red Cone Peak / Webster Pass, Kingston Peak, Slaughterhouse Gulch, and Pensylvania Gulch Rd.... all with ratings 5+ and didn't have 1 issue.

Went to Balanced Rock Road....rated a 2 or 3....and this happened...
OU4x4 said:
sucks to hear about the break. a bunch of us had trouble getting through that same spot.
took me four tries to find the right line.
lesson learned though and you'll be a better driver for it.
Click to expand...

Yea I was lucky to get off the trail...my 4wd barely worked after that part.

JayRolla said:
What trail was this?
Click to expand...

F*CKING BALANCED ROCK ROAD....shit was pretty flat the ENTIRE way, and boom...a 3foot wash out rut.

Going down...no problem...coming back up. Ew.
 
Bijan said:
I was hoping the quality/integrity of TOYOTA was going to help my sloppy technique :hiding:

I have been on Red Cone Peak / Webster Pass, Kingston Peak, Slaughterhouse Gulch, and Pensylvania Gulch Rd.... all with ratings 5+ and didn't have 1 issue.

Went to Balanced Rock Road....rated a 2 or 3....and this happened...


Yea I was lucky to get off the trail...my 4wd barely worked after that part.



F*CKING BALANCED ROCK ROAD....shit was pretty flat the ENTIRE way, and boom...a 3foot wash out rut.

Going down...no problem...coming back up. Ew.
Click to expand...

Wow. I have done that trail when my runner was stock. Just completed it with my brother in his stock 4th gen. I did tear my oem rear sway bar links and my new cheap front links since I forgot to disconnect them at that wash out.

Once you break a CV its like having that front tire off the ground at all times and your other front tire gets no power. You where in pretty much RWD after that.

You must have been having lots of fun!!! That wash out is what ranks that trail a 4 I believe.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 192 (members: 1, guests: 191)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,044
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top