My timing belt fun

[LowBrau]

I just updated my blog with a post about my timing belt experience. It took me 5 days, mainly because of a few minor sticking points. I didn't do a step by step, as plenty of people already have that covered in videos and posts on this forum. I did add in some notes about hardships and tips. I did add some pics.

enjoy and let me know what you think.

4Runner ? Timing Belt & Water Pump « Low Brau

 

[TheDurk]

1. You can build a perfectly good pulley holder in 20 minutes using a 2x4 and $3 worth of bolts. I did.

2. Per the Toyota FSM and wide experience on here, jiggle valva on the thermostat goes at the bottom, not the top. This is different than most engines. Your engine will run hotter with the valve upwards.

3. If you are using the metal/rubber Aisin gasket, you don't want to use sealant. You'll be lucky if it doesn't leak.

4. To install the belt, you have to compress the tensioner and insert an allen wrench or similar in the hole to lock it in the retracted position. This means either using the special compressor tool before you remove the old belt, or removing the tensioner and compressing it in a vise. That done, installing the TB with the top idler mount bolt loose so that the pulley tilts a little makes installation a breeze.

5. You really should replace the two idlers and the aux. belts when you do this job.

In any case, nice effort getting it done. Unlike you, I'm ready to do this again now that I have done it once.

 

[Whitson Metalworks]

I've done it twice now. I made a pulley holder out of some scrap tubing a had around, worked great but I'll need another one before I do it again. I really enjoyed doing it, it's the cleanest timing belt and water pump job I can think of. I think I only spilled a couple drops of coolant both times. Next time you do it, it'll be a single afternoon kind of thing!

 

[jeremyc74]

Using the right tool for the pulley (whether it's store bought or home-made) and the tensioner tool would have saved you hours of aggravation.

 

[02SE]

My advice is to replace the tensioner with a new one, instead of reusing it. They can go bad, and then the belt can move on the sprockets. This can lead to the engine not running. Either because the belt is torn up from being loose, or the timing is so far off the engine won't run.

Being a non-interference engine, no permanent damage should occur. But the engine can quit running in a very inconvenient spot.

 

[TheDurk]

I changed my coolant few weeks ago. Just started noticing a small coolant stain coming down and dripping right beside the oil drain plug. From reading alot ( [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] , you are the most informative poster on all things timing/water pump. Thanks!) Im guessing the weep hole or gasket leaking. Im very intimidated about this from reading some peoples post. Im pretty good at working on it and have done radiator change, O2 sensor, thermostat, brake changes, all fluid changes since new including power steering, diff, brake, tranny and everything wet in there. I live in an apartment with no garage so parking space would be my spot for changing everything. Would it be a bad idea to try this having to put all the parts removed in the rear cargo.

Forgot to mention that I have access to my wife car, I dont have any friends or family around here for help. Just moved here. Also Im not working ATM so time isnt an issue.

I've done my share of on-street wrenching. As long as you feel secure leaving your tools in the truck overnight, I'd say it is totally doable. (You still could do it, but it would be a pain taking it all back to where you live at night.) You don't need electric or air, and no real need for a helper. I did it solo over a long weekend. Probably four hours each day with swim breaks. I had no need for another car but I did have access to my garage and basement shop with the vise and all I needed to make the tool.

1. You will need to have your pulley holder ready to go as that really can't be made from scratch in a parking lot or street space and

2. you need access to a vise somewhere or obtain the tensioner compressor tool, or just buy a new tensioner, as it comes compressed with a wire thingy in the hole that you pull after belt is installed..

 

[Unner]

I just did this last weekend. It took me 15 hours total and it was my first timing belt job I've ever done. I took my time, replaced everything including: fan belts, radiator, thermostat, water pump, timing belt, idlers, tensioner, radiator hoses, crank seal, crank bolt, even the gasket for the upper timing belt cover. Next time I'm sure it will go quicker, but it really wasn't a bad job at all.

 

[csp]

As mentioned, a vise works for the tensioner.

Anyone wanting to work on vehicles should have a vise.

 

[HiLife]

I've always used a vise in the past to compress the tensioner with success.
This last time I use what I though was a heavy duty ratcheting squeeze clamp and bent the crap out of it to compress the tensioner. The clamp worked in the end. It was more work and time using it.
Next time I will beg, borrow or ask to have use of a vise to properly compress another tensioner.

 

[LowBrau]

1. You can build a perfectly good pulley holder in 20 minutes using a 2x4 and $3 worth of bolts. I did.

2. Per the Toyota FSM and wide experience on here, jiggle valva on the thermostat goes at the bottom, not the top. This is different than most engines. Your engine will run hotter with the valve upwards.

3. If you are using the metal/rubber Aisin gasket, you don't want to use sealant. You'll be lucky if it doesn't leak.

4. To install the belt, you have to compress the tensioner and insert an allen wrench or similar in the hole to lock it in the retracted position. This means either using the special compressor tool before you remove the old belt, or removing the tensioner and compressing it in a vise. That done, installing the TB with the top idler mount bolt loose so that the pulley tilts a little makes installation a breeze.

5. You really should replace the two idlers and the aux. belts when you do this job.

In any case, nice effort getting it done. Unlike you, I'm ready to do this again now that I have done it once.

1) We tried the 2x4 and bolts, ended up bending a bunch of metal and indenting the wood. Used some other metal that we had as well instead of the 2x4. Not sure what it was last set at, but it was a major pain in the rear. Lost some other tools trying to improvise.

2) I'll keep an eye out for running temps, so far, the temp gauge shows pretty low and it's been hot here in DC. I'll keep checking it in case I need to make the change. I saw that it was supposed to be at noon based on that video. Guess those guys had it wrong.

3) I picked up a Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit from AutoParts Warehouse. The gasket that came with it was more of a paper level. I picked up a high tack gasket sealant per recommendation from my dad (he has a lot more experience working on vehicles than I do). I'll keep my eyes open for any leaks.

4) The kit mentioned above came with a new idyllers, so I loosened and then swapped out tensioners. I read that this tensioning pulley tool is great, however it is sometimes hard to come by these tools when your hands are already in it. I didn't see that recommendation until later.

5) I replaced all of the belts and per the kit, the idyllers as well.

I'm sure when I hit 90k, I'll be down for doing it again. The biggest thing here is piece of mind for me. If something goes wrong, well, it's my fault and something happened during my installation. But at least I saw it and I didn't spend a fortune to fix it. If something does come up, I now know what I'm looking at and can hopefully diagnose it.

Thanks for the input, I'll keep that in mind if something does come up.

 

[LowBrau]

As mentioned, a vise works for the tensioner.

Anyone wanting to work on vehicles should have a vise.

I have a vise and multiple clamps. However, loosening it all the way and replacing it seemed to work just fine. The issue was getting to the loosening part, haha.

 

[hawnrsen]

They can go bad, and then the belt can move on the sprockets.

 

[Drcoffee]

I just did mine two weeks ago. I broke two of the accessory tensioning bolts because they were rusted together. That required a few more steps that turned a 2 day job into a 3 day job. If that happens to you, put the nut block into a vice and use a plumbers propane torch to heat it till its smoking hot. Then use vice grips to turn the broken bolt out. I bought 3 new 4" bolts at Ace Hardware and you will need washers too because nobody has flanged bolts like that. (M8 x 1.25)

This was a bigger job than I expected and I have done timing belts before. Took way more tools than I expected as well. If you dont have a complete set of tools, plan on buying tools to do the job. Who would you rather pay? $1,000 to Toyota or use the cash to improve your tool box.

Oh and dont sweat the vice. Take your part to Sears and compress it on a display vice. By the time they see you, it will be done. Tell them you are testing the vices before you buy one. LOL

 

[LittleCaesar]

Oh and dont sweat the vice. Take your part to Sears and compress it on a display vice. By the time they see you, it will be done. Tell them you are testing the vices before you buy one. LOL

That is funny. At my local Sears I could probably take the vice home, compress the tensioner, and bring it back and no one would know. Sears may be on the chopping block by this time next year.

To reiterate what O2SE stated, at this age any timing belt job one should just replace the tensioner with a new OEM one for $35.

The more tools the merrier I like to say.:humble:

 

[TheDurk]

1)
3) I picked up a Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit from AutoParts Warehouse. The gasket that came with it was more of a paper level. I picked up a high tack gasket sealant per recommendation from my dad (he has a lot more experience working on vehicles than I do). I'll keep my eyes open for any leaks.

For a paper type gasket, Dad was right. Next time, I recommend the OEM Aisin pump. There are lots of good kits on e-Bay with the OEM parts. It's worth it.

 

[jeremyc74]

For a paper type gasket, Dad was right. Next time, I recommend the OEM Aisin pump. There are lots of good kits on e-Bay with the OEM parts. It's worth it.

I'm not sure how using a little gasket sealant on the Aisin style gasket would make it leak. I realize it's not used from the factory, but the block surfaces are in a lot better shape when the original one is installed. Also, a LOT of the original ones (mine included) are leaking by the time they're changed.

I used it on mine when I did it 10k miles ago and haven't had any issues. I think the opposition to it is a little overblown.

 

[Unner]

I just did mine two weeks ago. I broke two of the accessory tensioning bolts because they were rusted together. That required a few more steps that turned a 2 day job into a 3 day job. If that happens to you, put the nut block into a vice and use a plumbers propane torch to heat it till its smoking hot. Then use vice grips to turn the broken bolt out. I bought 3 new 4" bolts at Ace Hardware and you will need washers too because nobody has flanged bolts like that. (M8 x 1.25)

This was a bigger job than I expected and I have done timing belts before. Took way more tools than I expected as well. If you dont have a complete set of tools, plan on buying tools to do the job. Who would you rather pay? $1,000 to Toyota or use the cash to improve your tool box.

Oh and dont sweat the vice. Take your part to Sears and compress it on a display vice. By the time they see you, it will be done. Tell them you are testing the vices before you buy one. LOL

If you're replacing everything it's usually more than $1,000 at a Toyota dealer. The only dealer who would quote me for replacing everything including tensioner and idlers wanted $1,550. That didn't include the new radiator and hoses either. Probably would have been over $2,000 with that. I spent just under $500 in parts, but I had most of the tools.

That is funny. At my local Sears I could probably take the vice home, compress the tensioner, and bring it back and no one would know. Sears may be on the chopping block by this time next year.

To reiterate what O2SE stated, at this age any timing belt job one should just replace the tensioner with a new OEM one for $35.

The more tools the merrier I like to say.:humble:

Who doesn't like tools?! This job was my excuse for ratcheting wrenches, and I wish I had bought them years ago.

For a paper type gasket, Dad was right. Next time, I recommend the OEM Aisin pump. There are lots of good kits on e-Bay with the OEM parts. It's worth it.

I'm not sure how using a little gasket sealant on the Aisin style gasket would make it leak. I realize it's not used from the factory, but the block surfaces are in a lot better shape when the original one is installed. Also, a LOT of the original ones (mine included) are leaking by the time they're changed.

I used it on mine when I did it 10k miles ago and haven't had any issues. I think the opposition to it is a little overblown.

I think it has to do with the sealant drying and becoming brittle somewhat and it's more like a contact seal since the bolts only go to 14 ft-lbs. It's not super tight, just enough to keep the rubber in contact on both the waterpump and block. I was able to get my block pretty clean using a razor blade and acetone. I probably spent an hour cleaning it, but I didn't want to risk a leak.

Also the original pumps from the factory were installed with FIPG and no gasket, the new replacement ones come with the gasket instead.

As long as yours isn't leaking that's all that really matters though! :cheers:

 

[jeremyc74]

I think it has to do with the sealant drying and becoming brittle somewhat and it's more like a contact seal since the bolts only go to 14 ft-lbs. It's not super tight, just enough to keep the rubber in contact on both the waterpump and block. I was able to get my block pretty clean using a razor blade and acetone. I probably spent an hour cleaning it, but I didn't want to risk a leak.

Also the original pumps from the factory were installed with FIPG and no gasket, the new replacement ones come with the gasket instead.

As long as yours isn't leaking that's all that really matters though! :cheers:

That's good to know about the factory ones not using a gasket. The one I took off had the metal seal, so at least I know it was changed once, and they used Toyota parts. I couldn't find any record of the timing belt being done and it had 180k on it when I did it.

 

[Unner]

That's good to know about the factory ones not using a gasket. The one I took off had the metal seal, so at least I know it was changed once, and they used Toyota parts. I couldn't find any record of the timing belt being done and it had 180k on it when I did it.

Yup, apparently the Toyota techs couldn't apply the FIPG correctly and were damaging the engines so that's when they switched to the gasket instead. Mine also had the metal gasket so I could confirm that mine was done at 84k like the original owner claimed. Mine still had a little bit of FIPG on the edges of the sealing surface too.

 

[LittleCaesar]

When I took off my original water pump at 16 years (only 105,000 miles) the bearing was still good but the FIPG in some parts had wrapped around the impeller. Not so good but no damage was done. My problem was in being so lazy in not changing it sooner was that the tensioner was maxed and I didn't know for how long it was like such so it was replaced.

I will say that the bead of factory FIPG was quite thin, but seemed to have covered all the mating surfaces well.

No RTV when using a gasket. If anyone has been a DIY plumber in their house, they will understand.

I don't why Unner but in the Deep South repair costs, primarily in labor, seem to be the most expensive. My brother says it is for dealers and other garages to absorb the idiot employee cost of doing business.