Lowriderman234
New member
Anybody have a write up that I could use to install my shocks and coils?
Need a write up for replacing shocks and coils
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LittleCaesar
New member
Front, rear, or both?
Lowriderman234
New member
Both. Forgot to mention that.
SRSRunner
New member
its pretty straight fwd. the front struts have 3 nuts on top, one on the bottom and boom they/re out. If your replacement parts for the front arent preassembled your going to need to rent a spring compressor- its not hard to do- looking at your stock strut you can see how it goes together. When you put the new in, attach the top of the strut first- then the bottom.
For the rear- shocks have a nut on top, and a bolt to pull on the bottom- again simple. next pull the top bolt for your panhard bar- this will make shifting the axle easier. All you have to do in order to get the springs out is to jack the opposite side of the axle up to take the tension off of it and it will come out. pop the old ones out, replace and your good to go. If your doing a lift, your going to want to order panhard drop bracket for your bar- thats simple enough also it just attaches to the frame and the bar attaches to it- you should probably have it welded to the frame though, if you wheel it at all its going to take a beating.
Its nothing you cant do yourself- but if you never have- be careful with the spring compressor- they def. are not toys. Hopefully there's someone on here that closer to you and can lend a hand. Here's a write up on the fronts- its annoying as hell to read but it may help you. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...y-interpret-factory-repair-manual-text-5.html
For the rear- shocks have a nut on top, and a bolt to pull on the bottom- again simple. next pull the top bolt for your panhard bar- this will make shifting the axle easier. All you have to do in order to get the springs out is to jack the opposite side of the axle up to take the tension off of it and it will come out. pop the old ones out, replace and your good to go. If your doing a lift, your going to want to order panhard drop bracket for your bar- thats simple enough also it just attaches to the frame and the bar attaches to it- you should probably have it welded to the frame though, if you wheel it at all its going to take a beating.
Its nothing you cant do yourself- but if you never have- be careful with the spring compressor- they def. are not toys. Hopefully there's someone on here that closer to you and can lend a hand. Here's a write up on the fronts- its annoying as hell to read but it may help you. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...y-interpret-factory-repair-manual-text-5.html
quicksilvr
New member
Only thing that needs added to all the posted info is this: if you're not saving your old rear shocks for anything (I wouldn't).....then please save yourself a headache and just use a sawzall to cut the top of the shock off by the nut....instead of trying to actually unbolt it correctly.
SRSRunner
New member
^^^^^ YES...Good call.. I forget about that- when i did the lift the rear shocks had only been on the truck a month or so- I did end up cutting one the factory shocks when i replaced them the first time- its a little tight with a saw in there, but it'll be a lot faster if there's any rust on the nuts.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
maybe a cutoff wheel would be better than a sawzall
TheDurk
Elite Member
If you're talking stockers, a big honking pair of Channelocks beats either Sawzall or Cut-off. Just stand by the wheel well and grab the top boot and rotate forward or back. Breaks off right at the nut in seconds and I am hardly Superman. You're done before Sawzall/cut-off guy has climbed underneath. Won't work on shocks that don't have the steel upper boot like the stock Tokkicos.
I spent an hour getting the first one off until I tried this. I had the second one done in less time than it takes to type this.
You do have to get a 14mm deep socket on the top nut beforehand and wedge it against something.
I spent an hour getting the first one off until I tried this. I had the second one done in less time than it takes to type this.
You do have to get a 14mm deep socket on the top nut beforehand and wedge it against something.
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Lowriderman234
New member
Anybody got more pictures on lifting the other end of the axle to get the spring out?
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papapoopski
New member
I failed at replacing a rear shock yesterday.
I am replacing the Bilstein 5100 that is on now. I put a sawzall to the shaft and went through 3 blades trying to cut it. I used bi metal blades. All it did was put a tiny dimple in the metal.
This is the first time that my sawzall has not cut through something. This is a corded Milwaukee saw. It's got power. What the hell are the shafts made of?
I am reluctant to try to break it off by rocking back and forth. If the shaft can't be cut and I start trying to bend it off with leverage I'm afraid the shaft on the shock won't break but something else will.
Can anyone recommend a better blade, tool or method? I don't think the top nut is an option based on rust.
I am replacing the Bilstein 5100 that is on now. I put a sawzall to the shaft and went through 3 blades trying to cut it. I used bi metal blades. All it did was put a tiny dimple in the metal.
This is the first time that my sawzall has not cut through something. This is a corded Milwaukee saw. It's got power. What the hell are the shafts made of?
I am reluctant to try to break it off by rocking back and forth. If the shaft can't be cut and I start trying to bend it off with leverage I'm afraid the shaft on the shock won't break but something else will.
Can anyone recommend a better blade, tool or method? I don't think the top nut is an option based on rust.
