Need advice after frustrating day in the driveway.

[atalarico]

Sooo I was starting the fluid change schedule today since I don't have any info on when any of this was done by the previous owner. I was also going to change out my front passenger side CV in the process. I soaked all bolts in PB Blaster and let sit for a bit while I got ready.

Oil change went fine enough but I noticed the drain plug was realllly torqued on there and had no washer, which was sort of an omen of things to come. When it came time to do the front diff I was only able to get the fill plug open. Let me preface this by saying I have done the diff fluid multiple times on my old 3rd Gen, and I know to seat that allen bolt in or else you'll risk rounding it out. I did that and I still managed to partially round it out because the previous owner, or shop he took it to, over torqued the absolute living bejesus out of it.

Not wanting to risk further damage, I gave up and decided to move over to the CV axle. Again, I couldn't remove the lower ball joint bolts for the life of me. I hit it with my electric impact, but nothing since they are clearly over torqued or he used red loctite.

So, I'm annoyed because this a job I've done before without issue, but thanks to some ineptitude along the way, I have to take it in.

I'm wondering, do I go to my preferred shop, tell them the situation, and see if they can just break these bolts free at least, replace the rounded out one, and re-torque everything correctly (including the other LBJ bolts on the driver's side), and pick up the job from home? Or do I have them do the whole CV job and front diff? They're going to charge me for an hour of labor no matter what, so I wonder if the CV and the front diff would be close to an hour anyway. Or do I just pretend like I haven't touched it?

 

[COSteve]

What is it about those front diff drain plugs? I've done two recently and they both were crazy tight. I was lucky both were in good shape so they could take the torque required.

You could stick a tube in the fill port and vacuum the old lube out. Maybe drill out the old plug and replace?

Part of the challenge with high mileage cars. I had a 120k mile E46 that the lower front shock pinch bolts were fused in place with rust. Took hours to drill them out.

 

[having fun]

Do it yourself, if you round out the plug, you can weld a bolt to it.
LBJ break out a cheater bar, break them loose, there big bolts.

 

[99Runnr]

Skimmed this while on the phone, but..

I have found a method that works on all diff plugs. I hit them first and only with my big 1400 ft lb Milwaukee impact. The shock breaks them free before it strips. Since you partially rounded it, may not work, especially if it's not a real strong impact, it just kinda chips away at the structural integrity. In my experience at least. As stated, weld on something to it. You can also get a little siphon pump from harbor freight that has tee's where you can neck down to a tiny 1/8" hose and use the fill plug to siphon OUT the diff. I did that on my first 3rd gen.

Breaker bar, powerful impact, hit those LBJ bolt's. Jack handle on a 1/2" harbor freight 24" ratchet should get you a ton of leverage to do it easily. They actually make really nice quality sockets and ratchets now for cheap. No reason not to get a nice long handled ratchet for bolt's like this if you can't swing $200ish for a big electric impact. Otherwise, Offerup has Milwaukee impacts with battery/charger for $150-$180 all the time.

 

[markymark191]

My front diff drain plug is stripped also. I am going to weld it to get it loose. I have heard a lot of people with that issue

 

[Inv4drZm]

Like others mentioned, I welded a nut to the drain plug after I rounded it off. Either the nut or the heat worked it loose, but I left the nut on there for next time.

This goes without saying but slide a pipe or closed end of a wrench over the handle to get more leverage.

 

[Gatafly]

Easy way to get the diff drain plug out is to take a cold chisel and place it on the edge of the plug and whack it with a hammer in the loosening direction. I stripped mine out when I did it and called a toyota mechanic and that is what he said they do. Worked like a charm.

 

[TowMeOut]

Mine luckliy came loose pretty easily but I've many other drain plug issues. I picked up one of those "hand impact" setups and found it works well. They don't apply as much torque to the fastner as a big air impact but I think the twist plus the "smack" helps break stuck fastners loose pretty well. This assumes however that you have room to get in there with the device and swing a hammer.

I like the cold chisel approach too. Same idea.....

Years ago I was trying to do some suspension work on an old car and had a hell of a time separating the ball joints. This old guy at the shop came over and grabbed a huge ball-peen hammer and said "give it a whack right THERE". There was a bulge in the casting for just that reason I think. Once good hit and the piece popped right apart. Experience and technique it worth a lot....

 

[markymark191]

Like others mentioned, I welded a nut to the drain plug after I rounded it off. Either the nut or the heat worked it loose, but I left the nut on there for next time.

This goes without saying but slide a pipe or closed end of a wrench over the handle to get more leverage.

I don't know why, but i never thought of just reusing the drain plug with the nut welded on, you didn't have have issues with the thread or anything? I think that is what i will do, thanks for the idea!

 

[techno]

Heat is your friend. Seriously.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I don't know why, but i never thought of just reusing the drain plug with the nut welded on, you didn't have have issues with the thread or anything? I think that is what i will do, thanks for the idea!

It seems to work fine. I haven't changed the oil again yet but no leaks or anything.

 

[Drunner97]

Get a small ball peen hammer, a chisel, and a 4 lb sledge. Tap the diff drain plug all around the edges with the ball side. Hit it in the middle a time or two, then go at it with the chisel and the 4 lb sledge. Couple good whacks should get it going.

LBJ bolts, as was mentioned they're in there tight. 118 lbs of torque and probably red loctite because you don't want those things falling out. Jack handle, hi lift handle, anything with some leverage should get em going.

 

[atalarico]

Thanks for the really good advice all! I decided to take it in this morning for the front diff and I asked them if they could break free the LBJ bolts for me and re-torque them to proper spec. This shop, Toy Doctor in Denver (and my third choice since my first two were booked until next week), doesn't allow customers to provide parts, so I figured if they can break the bolts free I can just do the CV in my driveway like I planned anyway.

I have a feeling with a lift and air tools the shop will have no problem getting those bolts free. Hopefully they don't give me guff about the diff drain plug, but it'll get done right for $150-ish.

I can't wait to have my dream garage and some air tools. But seriously, other owners out there, pleeeeeease torque things right so you don't make the next owner's life a living hell. lol