Need Help

[CHawks_12]

Ok. So I did my lift this past weekend (will post pix under my post once I get a chance). My alignment sux and it doesn't help that the driver side cam adjust sleeve is seized and won't adjust. I am going to replace it, but the debt is do I go with Toyota parts from dealership or after market?
I am looking at Moog bushings and alignment caster camber kit. That route allows me to replace bushings and both driver side cam adjustment bolts. The Toyota parts only allows me to replace the FWD seized sleeve and the bushings. The Moog kit has zert fittings for the bolts to keep them greased.

I also have an array of lights which I think I just need to do the mod for. See below for lights:

 

[blackoutt]

I will warn you off of the Moog camber/caster bolts. I'm currently having issues with them not being tight and causing a knocking sound during certain manuevers, and a couple other guys on here had noticed as well. The Tacoma guys (same bolt kit p/n) have also had lots of rounding out of the d shaped holes on the cams causing alignment to be impossible. I'm replacing mine with OEM Toyota bolts.

The Moog bushings on the other hand should be okay to use. The Tacoma part numbers for the bushings is different and some of those guys have had an issue with the bushing outer race spinning in the bore of the control arm. I haven't seen any reports of this on the 4runner part numbers but maybe someone else has. Again, OEM would be the best bet.

 

[CHawks_12]

Thanks for the info. I could do the stock sleeve and the Moog bushings and come out the same as doing all Moog. The only thing is I would not be replacing the rear cam adjustment bolt and plates. Which they are fine and move as their suppose to. also doing that I could get new bushings for both sides (driver & passenger). The dealership does have the parts on stock. I could pick them up when I pick up the other part tomorrow and order the bushings online. Think I have a plan then unless others have input to add.

 

[CHawks_12]

So if anyone is paying attention to this thread..... I got all the parts needed to replace the cam adjust sub-assembly and rear plate. Here are the part numbers for them from Toyota, in case you ever have issue... Cam Sub-Assembly, Toe Adjust # 48409-60020 ($26), Plate, Toe Adjust, Nut # 48452-35020 ($28)...




I am just waiting for the Moog bushings to show so if I cannot get the assembly out without a saws-all... I have started applying PB Blaster to the assembly and will do so everyday until Tuesday when I get to work on it. Hopefully that works and I can just swap them out... Never as easy as planned... Will post pix of my endeavor....

 

[CHawks_12]

I also have an array of lights which I think I just need to do the mod for. See below for lights:

Any ideas on what would of caused these lights to come on? All I did was the lift. and attempted to do the alignment until I found that the cam adjust would not adjust.

Also, I am hoping that the alignment will fix it but what would cause it to rub only when going in reverse? And, any thoughts on if an alignment would fix it?

 

[trickbiker121]

My ABS wire broke when replacing the CV axle and those lights came on. Maybe the lift broke the wire in your 4runner. It will be hard to visually see if the wire is broken since the shielding will stretch but the wire inside will snap.

 

[blackoutt]

Try a zero point calibration first. I had these lights come on after I got it aligned right after I lifted it. If that doesn't fix it (should be done when lifted/aligned anyway) then it's most likely an ABS wire.

 

[scottblink23]

Any ideas on what would of caused these lights to come on? All I did was the lift. and attempted to do the alignment until I found that the cam adjust would not adjust.

Also, I am hoping that the alignment will fix it but what would cause it to rub only when going in reverse? And, any thoughts on if an alignment would fix it?

You probably ripped (or pulled out) an ABS wire - I ripped my front drivers' side ABS line when installing my lift. There are write ups on t4r.org about splicing and repairing but I just bought new ones and ran them inside.

 

[CHawks_12]

Thanks everyone. I looked around underneath didn't see anything obvious but on the rear I checked where the wires go into the connector and they were pulled out a bit. I pushed them in. Hopefully that was it. I doubt that was it but hopefully. I will hopefully find out Tuesday for it is going to sit until then when I get back in town and replace the camber parts.

 

[CHawks_12]

So funny story..... I replaced the driver LCA bushings and the manufacturer cam adjustment sub-assembly and put everything back together and the lights just went away. Dunno what I did, if anything, that I would think would of fixed it. But hey who's to complain? I got an alignment afterwards and could not be happier!!! Will post some pix of how I did the replacement. When I get a chance and details of it.

 

[Utopia]

I am getting ready to do the daystar 2.5/1.5 lift. Is the abs wire issue something I need to be concerned about? First time I have heard of this. Is it common?

 

[Inv4drZm]

I am getting ready to do the daystar 2.5/1.5 lift. Is the abs wire issue something I need to be concerned about? First time I have heard of this. Is it common?

When you take your front shocks out, the two control arms and spindle will want to droop a lot and pull on the wires. I used a couple bungie cords tied to the frame and spindle to take the tension off the wires.

 

[CHawks_12]

When you take your front shocks out, the two control arms and spindle will want to droop a lot and pull on the wires. I used a couple bungie cords tied to the frame and spindle to take the tension off the wires.

I had an extra jack stand that I used to rest the wheel hub on. I also removed the 2 bolts that connect the ball joint to the bottom of the hub assembly to give me more ability to move the LCA to reinstall the strut.