Need some help - Bleeding brakes

[wkeryder4]

URGENT! Need some help - Bleeding brakes

Hey everyone,

So I'm in the middle of installing my stainless steel brake lines and I'm bleeding the brakes. I got pressure from the rear calipers but when I went to the front the pedal isn't giving me any pressure. Doesn't look like I have any leaks any where. Anyone know what could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[preacher35]

Anyone know what could be causing this?

Yes, you still have air in your lines. In my experience bleeding brakes, the 4Runner requires a ridiculous amount of bleeding. Just keep bleeding each wheel until you can get at least 10 full brake pumps of pure fluid coming out. It's a pain in the ass, but you will get there.

 

[wkeryder4]

Yes, you still have air in your lines. In my experience bleeding brakes, the 4Runner requires a ridiculous amount of bleeding. Just keep bleeding each wheel until you can get at least 10 full brake pumps of pure fluid coming out. It's a pain in the ass, but you will get there.

Thanks for the quick response. I got everything buttoned up and it appears to be working just fine. I was having my roommate pump the brakes and every time I would open the nipple it would put out fluid but the pedal wasn't getting pressure. I tested it without moving and the pedal isn't mushy at all. It was tighter than it was before so I took it for a REALLY slow test drive and it appears to be working perfect. Then I took it for a 3 mile test drive at around 45-50mph and that worked as well. Just to be on the safe side, when I take it in for an alignment this week I will have them double check the brakes.

 

[03_4x4Runner]

To bleed the brakes on my 03 the front was done the conventional way. Push the brake pedal, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let up on the brake pedal. The rear did not work this way. I had to have someone turn on the key, push on the brake pedal, then open the bleeder valve, let run a while then close the bleeder. The fluid would continue to run a good while from the electric motor in the master cylinder. Do not let the fluid get low. Refill the master cylinder and repeat as needed. It did not work pumping the brake pedal up and down on the rear. Not sure if your year is the same but I would think so.

 

[preacher35]

Thanks for the quick response. I got everything buttoned up and it appears to be working just fine. I was having my roommate pump the brakes and every time I would open the nipple it would put out fluid but the pedal wasn't getting pressure. I tested it without moving and the pedal isn't mushy at all. It was tighter than it was before so I took it for a REALLY slow test drive and it appears to be working perfect. Then I took it for a 3 mile test drive at around 45-50mph and that worked as well. Just to be on the safe side, when I take it in for an alignment this week I will have them double check the brakes.

Excellent.

 

[4RunnerFan]

To bleed the brakes on my 03 the front was done the conventional way. Push the brake pedal, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let up on the brake pedal. The rear did not work this way. I had to have someone turn on the key, push on the brake pedal, then open the bleeder valve, let run a while then close the bleeder. The fluid would continue to run a good while from the electric motor in the master cylinder. Do not let the fluid get low. Refill the master cylinder and repeat as needed. It did not work pumping the brake pedal up and down on the rear. Not sure if your year is the same but I would think so.

I have a MityVac MV8000 bleeder kit that I've used to solo bleed brakes in other vehicles. It's like a pump with a pistol grip that you squeeze multiple times to create a vacuum inside the receptacle that draws the fluid out of the brake line. Would this work on my '08 T4R (V6) rear brakes, or must one rely on using the electric motor in the master cylinder?

 

[eng208]

I have a MityVac MV8000 bleeder kit that I've used to solo bleed brakes in other vehicles. It's like a pump with a pistol grip that you squeeze multiple times to create a vacuum inside the receptacle that draws the fluid out of the brake line. Would this work on my '08 T4R (V6) rear brakes, or must one rely on using the electric motor in the master cylinder?

I don't think so. These are not set up like a conventional vacuum unit. They rely on an electric pump.
What I did was this:
1.Instructed my wife on how to gently pump the brakes and hold when I said "Hold". This was done with key off. I opened the bleeder when pedal was held and did this 10 times. This is what I would consider equivalent to bench bleeding. There is no real pressure generated at this point.
2. I then instructed her to turn key "On". We went through the same process 15 times. With this, you get positive pressure on the line. I also started at the RR, LR, RF, LF. The front lines cleared quickly. The rear took a while. Check the Master cylinder reservoir frequently. I am sure running it dry will not be good on the accumulator

 

[Drak]

When I bought my 'runner, I found this link while searching the same thing, might be very helpful to some. Allows you to do it by yourself utilizing a pressurized system to force fluid through the brake lines.
At least on my computer, this site always loads really slow, but it will load.
Lots of great 4Runner info there.

Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush

 

[4RunnerFan]

When I bought my 'runner, I found this link while searching the same thing, might be very helpful to some. Allows you to do it by yourself utilizing a pressurized system to force fluid through the brake lines.
At least on my computer, this site always loads really slow, but it will load.
Lots of great 4Runner info there.

Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush

Yes, I also found that link a while back and wondered how using pressure on the top of the reservoir is different than using a vacuum pump at the wheel end in that both methods bypass the electric pump (for the rear brakes). The flushing procedure in the link using the Motive system does not say to turn the key and let the pump run.

So, it appears the rears need positive pressure on the master cylinder side of the line and flushing won't work with a vacuum at the wheel end. I'm just not clear as to why.