Need some thoughts on power steering “problem”.

[philsey]

2010 SR5, 82,000 mi.

Few weeks ago I went in to the dealer for my OC. Service report came back with “power steering rack leaking ….. needs replacing …. $2,200.00. (short version).

So, today I went back to get it up on a rack and discuss with the shop foreman. Both the L- and R-side rubber boots look just like the pic below. I was told the leaking is happening from the bushing and seal, inside the boot, and the boot is porous enough to weep like it shows. (He commented “there is more oil leaking than you see … what you see is just what has weeped through the boot”).

So, to the collective: Feasible? Other thoughts/opinions?

TIA.
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

 

[TEujunga]

How much power steering fluid have you actually lost? Have you had to top off the reservoir repeatedly? If not, then the leak is probably not so bad.

Sometimes on older vehicles it makes more sense to just live with minor leaks than to go to the trouble and expense of chasing down and repairing every one.

For $2,200, you can buy lots of cases of power steering fluid and just keep replenishing it as it leaks out.

 

[wfo9]

Yea, how much fluid is it consuming....if not much.. keep on rolling with it.

If the seals are bad.. the OEM rack is about $800. Not sure what type of reman are available....

 

[philsey]

How much power steering fluid have you actually lost? Have you had to top off the reservoir repeatedly? If not, then the leak is probably not so bad.

Sometimes on older vehicles it makes more sense to just live with minor leaks than to go to the trouble and expense of chasing down and repairing every one.

For $2,200, you can buy lots of cases of power steering fluid and just keep replenishing it as it leaks out.

The reservoir level presently sits right on the "MIN HOT" line, when hot.

 

[jrandom]

Until the f'ker starts squealing like a pig you might as well run it, your seals are going bad, you'll need to remove the rack to replace them, which means you should just get a reman eventually.

So yeah just plan on changing it out when it stops steering, it "should" give you some warning, the will get pretty resistant when steering, typically gets worse in cold weather.

 

[jbstrd]

Do these still require you to lift the motor to replace the rack or is there a workaround?

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Needs a rack. As far as I know and what was explained to me and some of the research I did, the aluminum housings seem to get a bit oval over time and the seals flatten and leak. So replacing a seal will only work for a while since it'll get flattened again. Additionally there's a few tools that go with replacing the seals in the rack.

It's doable I suppose? But honestly I gave up on it after looking into it and decided a new rack was the way to go. My experience from dealing with OEM and non-factory racks is that unless you're getting like a reman'd Toyota or a brand new one from whoever makes Toyota's racks (i.e. like getting a Denso Alternator from somewhere vs. a Denso Alternator with a Toyota sticker on it) you're gonna end up replacing it in a short while.

All the NAPA, AutoZone, Joe's Parts Shack stuff I've seen and installed usually leak and/or fail within a year or two. So take that with a grain of salt, not saying they will all leak within a year or two, just that most of them I have seen do.

Also the tech isn't wrong, if you took a sewing needle or a small clothespin and poked a small hole in the boot rib closest to the steering rack you'll probably get some drips coming out from fluid sitting in the boot. I say run it as long as you can go for, when the fluid starts dropping pretty low or the boots start dripping I'd be inclined to start saving up.

 

[GreyLife]

Do these still require you to lift the motor to replace the rack or is there a workaround?

From what I understand, the answer is yes, engine needs to be lifted. But I cant be sure on your year.

 

[gm350reratliff]

I would run it until the seals really start leaking, which may be in a week or in 3 years. Just keep the reservoir topped off and you'll be OK.

 

[philsey]

My thanks to all.

My shop visit was with the Foreman - a Toyota Master Tech with the dealership over 20 yrs... nice guy... straight shooter... dirty hands... drives a '16 Taco (service writers are not techs).

My $2200 quote includes labor, a reman rack, new boots, new inner tie rod ends, fluid top-off, and an alignment. Does not seem unreasonable.

I asked for a discount (you never know if you don't ask, right?) and got $150 for 30 days. I'll ponder this a little, but I'm inclined to proceed - I expect to keep this ride and I don't like driving a car with a known 'issue'.

One last question, please: I asked, and they will only top off the brake fluid as needed. Is this a good time to do the "machine flush"? They want $129.00.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

My thanks to all.

My shop visit was with the Foreman - a Toyota Master Tech with the dealership over 20 yrs... nice guy... straight shooter... dirty hands... drives a '16 Taco (service writers are not techs).

My $2200 quote includes labor, a reman rack, new boots, new inner tie rod ends, fluid top-off, and an alignment. Does not seem unreasonable.

I asked for a discount (you never know if you don't ask, right?) and got $150 for 30 days. I'll ponder this a little, but I'm inclined to proceed - I expect to keep this ride and I don't like driving a car with a known 'issue'.

One last question, please: I asked, and they will only top off the brake fluid as needed. Is this a good time to do the "machine flush"? They want $129.00.

That sounds like a reasonable price for all the stated stuff.

It wouldn't hurt to get the brake fluid flushed if you haven't done it in 3yr/30k. I usually don't like to top off customer's brake fluid unless the light is coming on, the reason being is that then when you do brakes and push the pistons in the fluid spurts out the top. Most customers don't seem to understand that the "Min" & "Max" lines are a range the fluid will be within and that not always being at the "Max/Full" mark is okay.

 

[SATSTRAIL]

My thanks to all.

My shop visit was with the Foreman - a Toyota Master Tech with the dealership over 20 yrs... nice guy... straight shooter... dirty hands... drives a '16 Taco (service writers are not techs).

My $2200 quote includes labor, a reman rack, new boots, new inner tie rod ends, fluid top-off, and an alignment. Does not seem unreasonable.

I asked for a discount (you never know if you don't ask, right?) and got $150 for 30 days. I'll ponder this a little, but I'm inclined to proceed - I expect to keep this ride and I don't like driving a car with a known 'issue'.

One last question, please: I asked, and they will only top off the brake fluid as needed. Is this a good time to do the "machine flush"? They want $129.00.

If you are even slightly mechanically inclined replace the brake fluid yourself. Purchase several bottles of brake fluid and then suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. Refill the reservoir with clean fluid. Jack the truck up and remove the wheels, crack the bleeder screws loose (one caliper at a time) and let them gravity bleed/drip into a pan. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and do not let it run low. Let the caliper drip fluid out of it until it starts to run cleaner looking. Repeat this procedure for each caliper. After you're all done bleeding each caliper simply top off the reservoir to the full mark. Your cost $20 or so in fluid and a little bit of mild labor. SUPER simple. The "machine process" does nothing different than gravity bleeding the system yourself it's just a little bit faster. All that you're doing is replacing the fluid in the system. I do these on a daily basis…

 

[BlackWorksInc]

If you are even slightly mechanically inclined replace the brake fluid yourself. Purchase several bottles of brake fluid and then suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. Refill the reservoir with clean fluid. Jack the truck up and remove the wheels, crack the bleeder screws loose (one caliper at a time) and let them gravity bleed/drip into a pan. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and do not let it run low. Let the caliper drip fluid out of it until it starts to run cleaner looking. Repeat this procedure for each caliper. After you're all done bleeding each caliper simply top off the reservoir to the full mark. Your cost $20 or so in fluid and a little bit of mild labor. SUPER simple. The "machine process" does nothing different than gravity bleeding the system yourself it's just a little bit faster. All that you're doing is replacing the fluid in the system. I do these on a daily basis…

The one thing I will say that I personally like the "machine" method better. But only positive pressure units, I never really like the "suction" machines.

I used basically this myself at work:

with this:

The benefits are that since it's positive pressure there's no risk of accidentally introducing air into the system by leaving the bleeder open too long. You can also bleed brakes with it since it does about the same thing as pumping the brakes.

I think I spent a smidge under $100 for the specific Toyota brake fluid adapter (which works for basically any modern Toyota master cylinder made in the last 20-ish years), the "kit", and a bleeder bottle. Eventually I need to get off my lazy ass and modify the unit to accept a small regulator and air-fitting so I can just have it constantly feed 30psi rather than having to repump it and have a manual bleed-off valve on it.

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

Drive until it starts making noise, refill and repeat. I did this on my old Impreza for 100k miles and it was fine. It didn't look pretty, but it worked.

 

[philsey]

If you are even slightly mechanically inclined replace the brake fluid yourself.…

Thanks, but a few years after I retired I moved into a high rise. I left all the tools and all the room behind for two underground heated parking slots. I miss doing my stuff, but I really hate the cold too.