Need thread size for 5VZFE crankshaft pully "pull" holes

[azcat90]

I want to remove my crankshaft pulley (stuck on - probably rust from leaky water pump) and then be able to put it back on with proper torque setting using a craftsman wheel puller kit as a brace - none of the bolts in the kit seem to fit the larger two of the 3 threaded holes opposite each other on the pulley. Does anyone know the thread size/pitch of those two holes?

 

[LittleCaesar]

I think it may be M8, but not 100% sure.

If you can give me until tomorrow I can grab the ones out of my SO kit that worked.

You can take some penetrating fluid and with two pry bars try and walk the balancer off the crank and key way. I have done it before but not with 285xxx miles.

 

[TheDurk]

The puller holes are M8-1.25. Don't use a hardware store bolt to torque, it will bend. Grade 10 automotive or fuhgeddaboudit.

 

[azcat90]

PB Blaster

M8 1.25 awesome - thanks - back to Napa. I PB blasted it - will see what I can do with it in the a.m. - I dread using prybar - not sure what is behind it can stand the pressure. I'm thinking I will probably be acquiring a new CS pulley before this is over. Scary that the 19 mm bolt came loose without even using a brace but I suppose the rust is what was really holding it on.

 

[TheDurk]

M8 1.25 awesome - thanks - back to Napa. I PB blasted it - will see what I can do with it in the a.m. - I dread using prybar - not sure what is behind it can stand the pressure. I'm thinking I will probably be acquiring a new CS pulley before this is over. Scary that the 19 mm bolt came loose without even using a brace but I suppose the rust is what was really holding it on.

My local NAPA has only standard grade bolts. You want one with 10.9 stamped on the top for what you propose to do or it will bend. Standard grade is ok just to pull, though. NAPA doesn't have them, or at least, mine doesn't. Whatever you do, don't pry on the outer shell of the harmonic balancer--you'll probably pull the rubber dampener off the inner core and destroy the HB. That's not a solid pulley. It's really a pulley sandwich with a rubber filling. (The puller bolts thread into the center core, that's why the threads are only way in the back.)

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Just a couple of pry bars to walk it off gently placed between the pulley and block. There is some wiring below the lower cover, just so you know.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

M8 1.25 awesome - thanks - back to Napa. I PB blasted it - will see what I can do with it in the a.m. - I dread using prybar - not sure what is behind it can stand the pressure. I'm thinking I will probably be acquiring a new CS pulley before this is over. Scary that the 19 mm bolt came loose without even using a brace but I suppose the rust is what was really holding it on.

That was at risk for ruining the entire crankshaft. I had to use about an 8 foot pole to get mine loose. No air gun would touch it, not even one that's used on big 2.5 ton diesel trucks.

It will be interesting to see what the crank looks like once you get the pulley off.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I ran a tap into the holes first on my 96. It was a bugger getting the balancer off. Kept braking the 8mm little bolts. Finally got it off after the 3rd set of harder studs

 

[azcat90]

Used 2/3 jaw puller.

I used a 5 ton 2/3 jaw puller borrowed from Auto Zone to remove the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley.

My problem now however is that the timing pulley underneath will not come off.