new build qiestions

[WhiteRubi]

Hey guys, starting to build the 4runner I just bought and have a few questions. First, its a 2004 SR5 V8. 165K miles, single owner with all services done at Toyota. Galactic Gray
Second, a planned list:
5100 Toytec 3/2 lift
extended brake lines
Ebay Silver UCA (I hope this is right to help with alignment/camber/caster after lift)
FN f(x) wheels
285/70/17 Courser MXTs
Body lift, if needed

All this said, now the questions.

Will the these UCAs help fix any of the issues of caster/camber?
Any other suspension parts need replaced due to mileage (bushing etc)
Any need to run spacers with with the FN wheels, my understanding is these were built to address the issues (backspacing, width, and offset)

Eventually planning on smoked headlights and HID conversion for headlights and fogs. I'd love to find a complete kit for both as I find all the options somewhat confusing.

Thanks in advance fellas, great place you have here

 

[mrpurplepenguin]

1) Will the these UCAs help fix any of the issues of caster/camber?
2) Any other suspension parts need replaced due to mileage (bushing etc)
3) Any need to run spacers with with the FN wheels, my understanding is these were built to address the issues (backspacing, width, and offset)

Sounds like a fun upgrade list! I numbered your questions to more easily address them:

1) Those UCAs have a few extra degrees of caster built in, they'll help you get the numbers back in spec when you do your alignment after the lift. Read the thread on them though; they're cheap for a reason and you'll need to be vigilant of a few issues with them (bushing sleeves too short, low grade hardware).

2) 165k is pretty decent mileage for your suspension components, but they might still have plenty of life left. If your bushings are shot, replace them. If your ball joints are leaking or the boots are torn, replace them. Visual inspection (and some hefty prying) should tell you what does or doesn't need to be fixed.

3) I'm unfamiliar with those wheels (nor do I know the offset of stock wheels). I run 1.25" Spidertrax spacers with stock wheels and that pushes the tires out ~1/4" past the fender, which is ~30mm difference in offset.

Additional: Those are pretty large tires. I don't know what you can fit with a 3/2 lift and a body lift, but be aware you may need to chop the body mounts to fit them in there.

Hope that helps!

 

[Mytoy4]

I run 285/60R18 (18X9, 4.56" backspacing, -12mm offset) with the Toytec 3" and Bilstein 5100's and had to cut quite a bit. Also installed the light weight UCA's and it did bring me into spec.

 

[WhiteRubi]

Thanks for the responses.

I've read a little on the Ebay UCAs. I understand the bolt needs to be upgraded and some have shipped with short bushing sleeves. I know I can get the bolts, but are the bushing sleeves readily available?

Seems like several people here run the 285/70s. I'm okay with the body mount chop and I'd much rather do that than a body lift. If I need to do both, I will.

Thanks again.

 

[preacher35]

Thanks for the responses.

I've read a little on the Ebay UCAs. I understand the bolt needs to be upgraded and some have shipped with short bushing sleeves. I know I can get the bolts, but are the bushing sleeves readily available?

Seems like several people here run the 285/70s. I'm okay with the body mount chop and I'd much rather do that than a body lift. If I need to do both, I will.

Thanks again.

OK, so regarding a body lift vs. BODY MOUNT CHOP: A body lift will in NO WAY affect whether or not you will have rubbing on the body mount. Understand that all that a body lift does, is place a spacer between said body mount and the body. Thus, said body mount is still in the exact same place (with relation to the front wheel) as it was before a body lift. So, if your tires are rubbing on the body mount before a body lift, installing a body lift will not change that at all whatsoever and your wheels will still hit the body mounts. with -12mm offset (4.5" backspacing) and 285's with a 3" suspension lift, you will have rubbing on the body mounts when the steering wheel is cranked over to the left or right.

I hope I have not explained something that you were already aware of. Just trying to make sure you are fully aware of the situation before you make your final decision.

 

[WhiteRubi]

I guess I knew that, Preacher. I just wasn't thinking when I typed that response. LOL.
So let me ask this, will just the body Mount chop be sufficient? I'll do the BL if necessary and really prefer to knock all of this out in one weekend. (Suspension, UCAs, chop and BL if needed)

 

[WhiteRubi]

Been digging around and really I've confused myself more. So another question, any reason to do the toytec 5100/eibach lift ($900) over wheelers offroad 5100s and OME 886/896 combo @ $650? I'd have to have the struts assembled but that's not a big deal. What else am I missing for the $250 savings?