New camber/caster bolt suggestions

[97Run-Man]

I'm replacing my lower control arm bushing with some from white line, but in the process I am going to swap out the caster/camber bolts.
I was going to go with OEM but then I saw these from SPC: http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...Runner&year=1996 - 2002&from=USAFrom&to=USATo
I have there upper control arms and like them. Thought this might be a good one to use as the claim increased adjustment, 1.5 degrees.
Has anyone used them? Are they good?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

I'm replacing my lower control arm bushing with some from white line, but in the process I am going to swap out the caster/camber bolts.
I was going to go with OEM but then I saw these from SPC: http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...Runner&year=1996 - 2002&from=USAFrom&to=USATo
I have there upper control arms and like them. Thought this might be a good one to use as the claim increased adjustment, 1.5 degrees.
Has anyone used them? Are they good?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im using them. They work great but I found out the hard way that you cant install them according to instructions.

Benefit factor is they have more adjustment. They have a plastic sleeve instead of metal so they will never seize up from rust. They adjust very smooth.

They suggest you install the rear cam bolts with the nut towards the steering rack. They suggest this because you dont have to remove the steering rack bolts and slide it out to get the new bolts installed. Issue is that no alignment shop can get a TQ wrench on the Nut when its pushed up against the rack and they will slip since they cant get a good TQ on them.

So make sure you install both nuts towards the center of the control arm so they can be easily TQ'ed. Also they need to be TQ'ed to 175ftlb. After installing them this way and having them TQ'ed to 175ftlb they have never slipped.

 

[nobb]

IMO, no need to go OEM with this part. I believe some of the aftermarket ones (Moog) are even greasable to prevent these bushing from seizing over time.

 

[97Run-Man]

Im using them. They work great but I found out the hard way that you cant install them according to instructions.

Benefit factor is they have more adjustment. They have a plastic sleeve instead of metal so they will never seize up from rust. They adjust very smooth.

They suggest you install the rear cam bolts with the nut towards the steering rack. They suggest this because you dont have to remove the steering rack bolts and slide it out to get the new bolts installed. Issue is that no alignment shop can get a TQ wrench on the Nut when its pushed up against the rack and they will slip since they cant get a good TQ on them.

So make sure you install both nuts towards the center of the control arm so they can be easily TQ'ed. Also they need to be TQ'ed to 175ftlb. After installing them this way and having them TQ'ed to 175ftlb they have never slipped.

I was planning to lower the rack to remove the old stuff. Basically following Tims video on how to replace the Bushings.
I'm assuming you would suggest installing them the way factory says too, Correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

I was planning to lower the rack to remove the old stuff. Basically following Tims video on how to replace the Bushings.
I'm assuming you would suggest installing them the way factory says too, Correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just make sure the nut on the back bolts are not pushed up against the rack. Both nuts will be towards the center of the control are for easy access. You will see what I mean when you get in there.

 

[97Run-Man]

Just make sure the nut on the back bolts are not pushed up against the rack. Both nuts will be towards the center of the control are for easy access. You will see what I mean when you get in there.

Thank you.
Was it a hard job to do? Any specialty tools you could suggest getting to do this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

Thank you.
Was it a hard job to do? Any specialty tools you could suggest getting to do this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well yes it was very very hard. Hardest work i've done on the 4runner so far. THis was because all cam bolts were seized. I had to cut 3 of 4 out. If they seize and when you go to remove them it will shred the bushing and no way to remove it without cutting.

If you need to cut use a saws all and get Diablo carbide tipped blades. They cut them out like butter.

 

[97Run-Man]

Well yes it was very very hard. Hardest work i've done on the 4runner so far. THis was because all cam bolts were seized. I had to cut 3 of 4 out. If they seize and when you go to remove them it will shred the bushing and no way to remove it without cutting.



If you need to cut use a saws all and get Diablo carbide tipped blades. They cut them out like butter.

So get stuff to cut through them, will do. I may just do that to save time. Lol
Good thing I'm replacing the bushing too.

Bedsides them having to be cut out, was putting it together easy?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JayRolla]

So get stuff to cut through them, will do. I may just do that to save time. Lol
Good thing I'm replacing the bushing too.

Bedsides them having to be cut out, was putting it together easy?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cutting out was tough. Removing old bushings was tough also. If you go whitelines you can cut the sleeves out with the saws all but they need pressed in. If they are the Energy suspension you must reuse the oem bushing sleeves so you must heat them up to break the old bushings off. But they dont need pressed in and just slip in.

So both types have different issues when installing. If you have a good press its real easy to do the whitelines.

 

[AZBub]

If you are lucky and nothing is seized the toughest part is the disassembly. I had one seized up part and it was that long bolt to the steering rack. Also I started spritzing the cam bolts with PB blaster a week before I started work. Good pick on the Whitelines.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[97Run-Man]

I really appreciate all this information guys. If you have any other tips or tricks please post them. I try to consume as much info as I can before I do big jobs like this.
I'm going to be using a 12 or 20 ton H frame press. Not sure so pressing in and out shouldn't be an issue for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BUXBOATBOY]

Do you have a link to the video? thanks Ian

 

[mtbtim]

I really appreciate all this information guys. If you have any other tips or tricks please post them. I try to consume as much info as I can before I do big jobs like this.
I'm going to be using a 12 or 20 ton H frame press. Not sure so pressing in and out shouldn't be an issue for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Miguel, you mentioned you were planning on using the video Sean and I made for this job. I wanted to use my Harbor Freight 20 ton press but you have to get a little creative using a long rod of some sort to press through the opposing side to get a straight shot with the pressing. I think it's easier to just use a bench vice like we show in the video.

Instead using the channel locks on the bushing sleeve side, I thought afterward it would have been better to use the press sleeve or large socket against the bushing and use the channel locks to create a gap on the backside between the control arm and vice jaw.

You definitely made the right choice going with the Whiteline bushings. Don't mess with the Energy Suspension because it's more of a hassle than it's worth. If you use the bottle jack/torch technique to get the old bushings out, you'll have no problems. They come out really easy.

If you follow our video, the hardest part will be dealing with seized cam adjusters that you have to cut out. But, if you get those Diablo Demon blades and have a good reciprocating saw, it should be less painful.

Another thing we figured out doing this job a second time is you don't have to remove the steering rack boots to get the rear cam bolts out. If you move the steering rack back far enough, you can get the bolts out without removing the boots.

Good luck!

 

[meRockboost]

X2 on the diable blades those things are awesome.

Whatever sleeves you go with use a bunch of marine grease. Marine grease will not wash out and will stay in and prevent rust for a long time.

I went with oem cams/hardware and whitelines and it's been great.

 

[97Run-Man]

I went the bottle jack route. Worked fine apart from a few that launched across the garage scaring the crap out of me.

On a kind of related note the job that kicked my butt was replacing the front wheel bearing. I had to have a shop due it. The 12 ton press I had access to was no match for the spindle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TeamPez]

Seized

If you follow our video, the hardest part will be dealing with seized cam adjusters that you have to cut out. But, if you get those Diablo Demon blades and have a good reciprocating saw, it should be less painful.
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]

I'm seized on the passenger side making my post lift alignment impossible. Just watched the video (thanks for those by the way). The shop of course wants $500 in labor and parts for the work. Getting all the parts and suggested blades tomorrow. Where would you recommend making the cuts so that I can drop the Lca and replace the bushings and cam adjusters? Thanks