333 fab Alignment Cam Eliminator Plates vs 25430- SPC Toyota Cam Bolt Kit

sugjavier

Member
Alignment Cam Eliminator Plates – Opt Offroad

vs

25430- SPC Toyota Cam Bolt Kit

Does anyone run these with stock UCA? No issues?

It seems both don't require any welding so it's like remove the old ones and replace, will I have any issues? Which one would be better? I wasn't sure the status of the OEM cam adjusters but I feel like it's probably crap and rusty/stuck at this point.

I don't really offroad much, but there's been a lot of dirt roads with potholes when we go up north in Michigan or any other remote location in Canada/Michigan.
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Is there any difference or preference between these?

I have stock LCA/UCA but I do have Bilstein 5100 / OME springs so there's a couple inch lift.

I just bought OEM from Springhill Toyota Parts which I thought was pretty cheap compared to other sites, 2 separate places said they can't do the wheel alignment until I get steering rack bushings / lower control arm replaced, and at that point, I may as well get the LBJs replaced again since I'm at 265k.

1. Lower Ball Joint Assembly Right Hand with Knuckle Arm | Part Number: 43330-39585
2. Lower Ball Joint Assembly Left Hand with Knuckle Arm | Part Number: 43340-39465
3. 8 x Bolt with Washer | Part Number: 90119-10933
4. Suspension Lower Left Hand Arm Sub-Assembly with Bushing | Part Number: 48069-35081
5. Suspension Lower Right Hand Arm Sub-Assembly with Bushing | Part Number: 48068-35081

chose to stick with OEM bushings for LCAs since the mechanic who's installing these said he doesn't have the press thingy to get the whitelines poly swapped in there and I don't feel like spending more money.
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In addition to some side items from Amazon:

1. Energy Suspension - 8.10103R 4WD RACK & PINION BUSHING SET
2. Super Lube 41150 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 400g, Translucent White Color
3. ATD Tools 350 555-Piece Cotter Pin Assortment
4. Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 - Removable Thread Lock Glue for Nuts, Bolts, & Fasteners, Medium Strength Screw Glue to Prevent Loosening & Corrosion - 6 ml, 1 Pack
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Anything else I missed?
 

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OEM LCA cam bolts, nuts and sleeves are available last I looked in 2024, they work well for adjusting, it is a good design just add anti-seize after you cut out the old ones, ask the mechanic to save and reuse anything that isn't cut up and rusted and return the parts you don't use. Cutting the old stuff out is where the mechanic needs to be careful using diablo metal cutting blades.
 
I run the cam eliminators with spc upper arms. They have 3 settings, +, 0, -. You can set them to get max castor to push the wheel away from the fender well etc. If you have experienced cam shift your alignment is toasted. So back to the shop.

I never have had it happen on the 4runner, but I don't want it to happen either. So I put the eliminators on. Now on my miata I have experienced it a few times on track day and during Monte Carlo rallies.
 
You shouldn't use the cam eliminator plates unless you have a secondary method to align the front end...

-Charlie

^^ THIS!

There are only 4 alignment points when using these. It's greatly recommended you use SPC upper control arms (or similar) that allow for further alignment tuning since you will be locked into these limited locations with your LCA's.

Additionally, there's also KPO Offroad Cam Eliminator that are octagonal and offer 8 points of alignment. Still, recommended for adjustable UCA's, but at least you get more adjustability.
 
Does anyone run these with stock UCA? No issues?

As others said, you can't run cam eliminators with stock UCAs, you'll need some sort of adjustment on top. If using stock UCAs (or JBA), I'd go with OEM or OEM-like cams.

3. 8 x Bolt with Washer | Part Number: 90119-10933

Good choice on the bolts! Just be sure to torque these to 37 ft-lbs, not the 59 ft-lbs in FSM.
 
As others said, you can't run cam eliminators with stock UCAs, you'll need some sort of adjustment on top. If using stock UCAs (or JBA), I'd go with OEM or OEM-like cams.



Good choice on the bolts! Just be sure to torque these to 37 ft-lbs, not the 59 ft-lbs in FSM.

I thought I saw somewhere Tim recommended to still do the 59ft lbs?
 
I thought I saw somewhere Tim recommended to still do the 59ft lbs?

If he did, that's outdated. 37 ft-lbs is the right torque for the black bolt with washer that you are getting, used in '01-02 trucks. 59 ft-lbs is the correct torque for green/red bolts of the '96-00 models.
 

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