New engine, leaking oil

runnyrunnerton

New member
Before I tear into this thing, I want a good direction.

PREFACE: Let me say this to put it to rest. I bought and swapped in a new motor as mine showing its age. I lost my job and had a few months off and figured, "screw it, I've always wanted to change a motor and I love this truck" I didn't have engine failure but I did have a bad head gasket and a few other issues i discussed with my mechanic buddy and at the end of the day, assuming time was no object, a motor swap was simply the cheapest foolproof method.I was alos not comfortable repowering with a larger motor as my skill is just not on that level yet. I now have a 5vz motor sitting in preservation oil ready for a rebuild and slapped into a project truck.

THE ISSUE: My GD valve covers leak on the outer rear sides, both banks. I cleaned the fire out of them, repainted and put on new rubber grommets. I used RTV for the gasket just like the FSM called for and torqued to spec. with the star method. Should I have used new bolts? I thought new head bolts were just for head replacement? I don't want to tighten them up just to see if it works as I don't know the pitfalls of that. Anyone have any advice? I'm looking for a "man you always turn blah one more blah when you blah" I assume i just missed a simple step but who knows. I did use High Temp permatex Ultra Copper RTV if that makes a difference. I had it on hand and forgot to order the regular red High temp stuff. Could there be clogged vent forcing pressure through them?
 
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So you used RTV instead of the actual gasket made for the valve covers? The only place you use the RTV should have been the cam plugs.
 
I didn't replace the semi circular plugs as they were aluminum and appeared a non serviceable part.


I did place the packing (rtv sealant) and I did use a gasket for the valve covers, as i remember buying them and using them. also have my refernce photos when i dressed the motors and they are in place on the valve covers. Here is the worst leak. You can smell oil burning when i push the motor hard. Looks like it drips right on the header to Y pipe connector.


Also getting some leakage by my oil cap, never heard of that before. I wiped it off before the picture but you see the smudge.

Ill probably crank down the valve cover bolts another turn but curious if I was really missing the boat. I'm not seeing any leakage around the semi circle caps, ill get a pic tonight with a mirror.
 
At 275k miles, my oil cap o-ring was seeping/leaking too. The o-ring/gasket is still available new from Toyota. How's your PCV valve?

Those valve cover bolts take a number of rounds or tightening to get them even and torqued to spec. (I did mine to 'snug' but you have to be careful not to break the valve cover!)

-Charlie
 
Did you use OEM valve cover gaskets? If not this could be a fitment issue.

Also, torque the VC bolts down carefully, maybe 1 turn at a time in a star pattern. The VC ears can crack if one is cranked down by itself.
 
You don't need to replace the aluminum semi circular plugs, but did you remove, clean, and put new RTV on them? You should always do that anytime you're doing valve covers.
 
At 275k miles, my oil cap o-ring was seeping/leaking too. The o-ring/gasket is still available new from Toyota. How's your PCV valve?

Those valve cover bolts take a number of rounds or tightening to get them even and torqued to spec. (I did mine to 'snug' but you have to be careful not to break the valve cover!)

-Charlie
My cap has no o ring on the inside. Problem #1. Im glad someone else has gone to snug vs torque, going to pull intake and get to these guys this weekend. Snug it is.
 
My cap has no o ring on the inside. Problem #1. Im glad someone else has gone to snug vs torque, going to pull intake and get to these guys this weekend. Snug it is.
Eh, the gasket/o-ring is probably there, just totally rock hard and flush with the cap. It seals against the top lip of the opening.

-charlie
 

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