New lift combo TRD shocks, bilestine 5100s shocks, rear superflex & LC80 shock

feelingstoned

New member
So after doing a bit of research and asking on another thread i created i've came up with the new possible suspension I want.
For rear:
Toytec Superflex coils: 024RCB ToyTec Superflex Rear Coils (96-02 4Runner)
Rear LC80 coils: Part#: 48531-69417 - Genuine Toyota ABSORBER, SHOCK, REAR (For both sides they are the same part#?)

For the front:
Tundra TRD coils part #'s: Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100
Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090

For shocks i was told by UnderFire (thank you by the way) (user on here) to use these 5100 https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-135660-bilstein-5100-series-ride-height-adjustable-front-shocks-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra-24-261425-pair.html.

I'm set on the rear, i think its a good combo. As for the front, the Tundra 5100 bilestines seem to sit at 2.5, same as the 4runner 5100. Will the coils lift it to about 3 inches? Keep in mind i got a steel bumper and a winch in the front.

Last thing. Can anyone confirm the correct part #'s? i think i have the correct part numbers but for the front shocks and springs i can't find part #'s or links on any forums. If anyone has part #'s or links that would be appreciated. Also if anyone has a different combo besides the Tundra set up in the front, please let me know, mainly because i realized that the tundra set up in the front is $$$ expensive. lol (with links or part #'s of course):zoom:
 
Register to hide this ad
Currently running 880/906 with tundra 5100s. Honestly my front is too stiff 90% of the time...so I've been curious about the trd coils as well. Just not sure where to get them because damn they are expensive.

The 906's are okay, but apparently too short for my shocks... Haha. They make somewhat scary sounds when flexing... :mmph:

So... Again I'm curious to hear more about the tundra trd coils.
:pop2:
Subbed

Derp, forgot to answer some of your questions..

I believe the trd coils lift 2.5", but I could be mistaken.
 
Main difference between the Tundra 5100's and the Tacoma/4Runner ones is that on the Tundra you get 5 adjustments for the spring perch, Tacoma gives you 3. They also have valving for more weight.

With the Tundra springs on them you'll either need to be on the 3rd from the bottom or possibly the 4th. There should be enough preload there to gain 2.5-3" of lift. The 5th notch likely would be too much.

If you're trying to make it easy you might want to order up new top plates so you don't have to disassemble your shocks. Make sure to get ones for 4runner/Tacoma.

Also call around to your local shops and see if they'd assemble the front shocks for you. It's well worth the 40 or so bucks you'll pay, the Tundra springs are no joke to compress.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
Currently running 880/906 with tundra 5100s. Honestly my front is too stiff 90% of the time...so I've been curious about the trd coils as well. Just not sure where to get them because damn they are expensive.

The 906's are okay, but apparently too short for my shocks... Haha. They make somewhat scary sounds when flexing... :mmph:

So... Again I'm curious to hear more about the tundra trd coils.
:pop2:
Subbed

Derp, forgot to answer some of your questions..

I believe the trd coils lift 2.5", but I could be mistaken.
05-15 Tacoma coils off of a TRD double cab short bed are what I'd recommend. Super easy to find and cheap. Almost always 100$ or even less. They work great especially with a mostly stock 3.4/auto equipped truck.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
Main difference between the Tundra 5100's and the Tacoma/4Runner ones is that on the Tundra you get 5 adjustments for the spring perch, Tacoma gives you 3. They also have valving for more weight.

With the Tundra springs on them you'll either need to be on the 3rd from the bottom or possibly the 4th. There should be enough preload there to gain 2.5-3" of lift. The 5th notch likely would be too much.

If you're trying to make it easy you might want to order up new top plates so you don't have to disassemble your shocks. Make sure to get ones for 4runner/Tacoma.

Also call around to your local shops and see if they'd assemble the front shocks for you. It's well worth the 40 or so bucks you'll pay, the Tundra springs are no joke to compress.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk

Ok so you think the Tundra 5100s with the TRD Tundra coils (Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100 Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090
would be a perfect set up? I will probably put it on the 4th perch.
Also those coils are spendy, where are you finding them for less than $100?
And again, the tundra 5100 bilestines you posted earlier, https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-1...1425-pair.html should be good?
 
Last edited:
Ok so you think the Tundra 5100s with the TRD Tundra coils (Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100 Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090
would be a perfect set up? I will probably put it on the 4th perch.
Also those coils are spendy, where are you finding them for less than $100?
And again, the tundra 5100 bilestines you posted earlier, https://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-1...1425-pair.html should be good?
24-261425 is the correct current part number for the shocks, your link just brings up an error for me.

Tundra coils seem to be the right fit for you yes. They are hard to find, they were tough to get ahold of even 6 years ago and they're less common now. I was talking about the 2nd gen Tacoma coils.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk
 
24-261425 is the correct current part number for the shocks, your link just brings up an error for me.

Tundra coils seem to be the right fit for you yes. They are hard to find, they were tough to get ahold of even 6 years ago and they're less common now. I was talking about the 2nd gen Tacoma coils.

Sent from my JSN-L23 using Tapatalk

Would these coils work fine? They are't stock but fit the tacoma/4runner. The TRD Trundra coil part #'s i listed above are $250 a pop, way too expensive.
Front OME Coils for 95-04 Tacoma & 96-02 4Runner
 
Not sure if anyone cares but I finished everything this weekend. Tundra coils & bilestines in the front (on the 4th perch). Not the cheapest route but rides so smooth. LC shocks & toytec superflex coils in the rear. The front took about 40 minutes the rear I had a hard time getting the top bolt off the old shock and pushing the axle down enough for the old coil to pop out. Some of the sketchier stuff I've done lol. Had to put a small jack on the end of the axle and push it down against the stock bump stop. Took a while but rides so smooth. Not as much lift in the rear as I wanted but that rear bumper is heavy. All in all happy camper.
bbf7884a3b520ba9ebf4239b3a31680d.jpg
6506ee2edde81a84f0cf0ecb730572e6.jpg
e9521b43532a53be8070645d87cd205e.jpg
a9e0a59887f5ce8d53cede6a2322598d.jpg
129b6435ebe52d20c5c88743112f749d.jpg
2b4fba51e846f49603e4b04e480bda1a.jpg
5fdcccc013120da26327c27e079a2405.jpg


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Nice - how bout some side profile shots?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll take some later today. Drove my girls car last night to run some errands and when I parked in the drive way I realized the driver side is higher than the passenger, or maybe I'm tripping? Noticed it again this morning too.
0959e6cb54ec534c1bbd38cf8af99feb.jpg


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
I had a hard time getting the top bolt off the old shock and pushing the axle down enough for the old coil to pop out. Some of the sketchier stuff I've done lol. Had to put a small jack on the end of the axle and push it down against the stock bump stop.
a9e0a59887f5ce8d53cede6a2322598d.jpg
Couple of notes...

When doing the rear suspension, you should be supporting the frame on jack stands to allow the rear suspension to droop on its own. Also, as part of the lift, you should loosen all of the pivot bolts for the rear links (10 locations, each end of the 5 links). That will allow the axle to droop all on its own (support with jack on the diff). Re-tighten the links after the truck is back down on its own weight. It will help the bushings last longer. Similar deal on the front - loosen the pivot bolt on the upper arm and the cam adjusters on the lower arm so that the suspension can naturally droop, then re-tighten back at ride height.

-Charlie
 
Couple of notes...



When doing the rear suspension, you should be supporting the frame on jack stands to allow the rear suspension to droop on its own. Also, as part of the lift, you should loosen all of the pivot bolts for the rear links (10 locations, each end of the 5 links). That will allow the axle to droop all on its own (support with jack on the diff). Re-tighten the links after the truck is back down on its own weight. It will help the bushings last longer. Similar deal on the front - loosen the pivot bolt on the upper arm and the cam adjusters on the lower arm so that the suspension can naturally droop, then re-tighten back at ride height.



-Charlie
Yeah I figured this out about half way through but I already did one side so did the same thing on the other. Do i need a drop bracket for the rear? I must have missed this somewhere but the driver side is sitting higher up

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Yeah I figured this out about half way through but I already did one side so did the same thing on the other. Do i need a drop bracket for the rear? I must have missed this somewhere but the driver side is sitting higher up

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Are you referring to the panhard bar mounts? If you are, then yes you should get some drop brackets. It helps center the axle and greatly improves handling. I recommend eimkeith's panhard correction kit. PCK (Panhard Correction Kits) – eimkeith.com
 
Are you referring to the panhard bar mounts? If you are, then yes you should get some drop brackets. It helps center the axle and greatly improves handling. I recommend eimkeith's panhard correction kit. PCK (Panhard Correction Kits) – eimkeith.com
Yeah that's what I was referring to. A lot of people are running lifts higher than mine without doing a drop bracket. I specifically didn't get it because i assumed the weight of the bumper would off set it. A lot of people are iffy about it. I'll check this drop bracket out but the toytec one is a weld on, I didnt want to do a weld on.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Yeah that's what I was referring to. A lot of people are running lifts higher than mine without doing a drop bracket. I specifically didn't get it because i assumed the weight of the bumper would off set it. A lot of people are iffy about it. I'll check this drop bracket out but the toytec one is a weld on, I didnt want to do a weld on.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
The one I linked is weld on as well. I don't think there are any bolt on drop brackets for it. You can try an adjustable panhard bar to center your axle, but if you flex a lot you're more likely to hit a rear tire on the fender instead of tucking it due to the extra panhard bar length shifting the axle further during flex.
 
The one I linked is weld on as well. I don't think there are any bolt on drop brackets for it. You can try an adjustable panhard bar to center your axle, but if you flex a lot you're more likely to hit a rear tire on the fender instead of tucking it due to the extra panhard bar length shifting the axle further during flex.
I'd rather just get a drop bracket and the one from toytec is cheaper, and looks easy to install. I'm just wondering how some people are running lifts higher than mine and theirs sits level. Maybe I'm just tripping, or my driveway is screwed up. I'll have to check it out tomorrow again, have someone drive behind me and see

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
I'd rather just get a drop bracket and the one from toytec is cheaper, and looks easy to install. I'm just wondering how some people are running lifts higher than mine and theirs sits level. Maybe I'm just tripping, or my driveway is screwed up. I'll have to check it out tomorrow again, have someone drive behind me and see

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Panhard bar doesn't affect your lift height. The panhard bar locates your rear axle left or right when looking at it from behind. Now that you are lifted above stock height in the rear your rear axle is shifted to 1 side at your new ride height.
 
Panhard bar doesn't affect your lift height. The panhard bar locates your rear axle left or right when looking at it from behind. Now that you are lifted above stock height in the rear your rear axle is shifted to 1 side at your new ride height.
Well I was already at above stock height. I had bilestines in front and rear I decided to re do everything with better coils to level the truck out. But that makes sense. The bracket will solve that issue?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,315
Messages
3,554,130
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top