New Shrockworks Bumper Show-Off + Questions

[naivivvuli]

Hello fellow t4r-ers.

I finally received my Shrockworks bumper which I ordered back in May 2012. Received the bumper around two weeks ago; had it shipped to ok4wd (NJ) for installation - Unfortunately, I don't have the space or the patience to perform such installation.

Anyway, I called ahead of time before I went to ok4wd to make sure everything was there before I drove down there. I also asked if the bumper was packaged correctly and they told me yes, but there were a couple of scratches/marks.

This is the bumper waiting for installation:

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0856.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

As you can see, I circled this big mark that I found under the hoop in red... =(


Up close pictures of the scratches/marks...

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0858.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0857.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>


Pictures of the bumper installed....

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0859.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0864.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>


I also noticed something really unusual. Throughout research of this bumper, I could've sworn that I saw pictures of the bumper meeting the fenders. But, my installed bumper wasn't the case.

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0863.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0862.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0861.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>


Questions for everyone that has this bumper:

1) I really want to repair the bumper (scratches, marks, etc.) any suggestions on the paint to use? I'm just going to touch this up myself and try to do the best I can...

2) Can anyone comment about their experience with the bumper, if the bumper meets all the way to the fender and if such GAP exist for their installation? I looked over everything when the Tech at ok4wd was installing the bumper for me and everything seemed right. All the holes for the bolts matched up perfectly fine. He was the one that actually pointed out that issue to me, and said if he could have made it line up, he definitely would have because it was such a nice piece.

Looking forward to some answers/comments. Thanks all...

 

[Merle]

Powder coating is a pain to match. I have some powder coated crash bars on my 2013 F800GS and use it like it's supposed to be used. Well, at some point you realize that you simply don't want to see silver. One of the engine enamel colors (I think it was 500F) was close enough for me.

Increase your gap between the bumper and fender. It's 3 bolts on each side and you can do it yourself with a socket and crescent wrench. Basically drop it to the lowest position and push the bumper back (it'll lever towards you held on by one bolt) so that if you do hit anything, your body (fender panel) is protected in case it does take a forceful hit.

And yes, I was at first worried about that gap (wow, I thought, it would have been nice if it went further back...) but spend some more money on farkles and you'll stop caring about it in about 2 weeks.

 

[Presta24]

luv the bumper, are you getting some HD springs?

 

[blk-4runner]

I would first contact Shrockwork, about that powdercoat, also I recommend that you leave about 1/2 inch gap for flexing.

 

[naivivvuli]

Merle - I agree. I'm really scared that I'm going to mess it up by putting paint on it. At the same time, I really don't want the bumper to be exposed to salt water = rust. Hurricane Sandy is coming Monday/Tuesday - definitely afraid of the exposed elements. So basically, I would have to loosen bolts and drop the bumper 'down' (vertical) position and then push it in to meet the fender?

Presta24 - Funny you ask. I actually have the Toytec front and rear lift, waiting to be installed. Trying to find places that will not cost me an arm and a leg. at the same time, I'm thinking about installing this myself. I definitely feel the sag in the front end now and I know the OEM shocks are taking a hugeeee hit. I'm also trying to do more research to see if the UCA's are really necessary. Don't want to spend the money on something I don't need etc.

 

[naivivvuli]

I would first contact Shrockwork, about that powdercoat, also I recommend that you leave about 1/2 inch gap for flexing.

Hello. Definitely contacting Shrockworks. They also forgot my Clevis Shackles! So are you saying that the gap that I have now is best? Or do you mean, I should drop the bumper more down? Thanks!

 

[blk-4runner]

Hello. Definitely contacting Shrockworks. They also forgot my Clevis Shackles! So are you saying that the gap that I have now is best? Or do you mean, I should drop the bumper more down? Thanks!

the gap on the picture should line up with the fender, but the gap that I was refering to is the down gap as you mention.

btw- that bumper looks sweet.

 

[Presta24]

Merle - I agree. I'm really scared that I'm going to mess it up by putting paint on it. At the same time, I really don't want the bumper to be exposed to salt water = rust. Hurricane Sandy is coming Monday/Tuesday - definitely afraid of the exposed elements. So basically, I would have to loosen bolts and drop the bumper 'down' (vertical) position and then push it in to meet the fender?

Presta24 - Funny you ask. I actually have the Toytec front and rear lift, waiting to be installed. Trying to find places that will not cost me an arm and a leg. at the same time, I'm thinking about installing this myself. I definitely feel the sag in the front end now and I know the OEM shocks are taking a hugeeee hit. I'm also trying to do more research to see if the UCA's are really necessary. Don't want to spend the money on something I don't need etc.

x2 on do it yourself, if your even slightly mechanical you can do it. spend the money you save on more mods

 

[naivivvuli]

blk-4runner - Gotcha. I see what you mean now. Thanks for the kind words.

Presta24 - Hopefully, I can tackle this job ASAP. I'll post some pics of the lift afterwards.

 

[Mytoy4]

Lookin' good!

 

[Dawg4Runner]

Hello fellow t4r-ers.


Questions for everyone that has this bumper:

Looking forward to some answers/comments. Thanks all...

Congratulations! Time for a lift now! :bigok:

1) I really want to repair the bumper (scratches, marks, etc.) any suggestions on the paint to use? I'm just going to touch this up myself and try to do the best I can...

I'd be very surprised if SW allowed a bumper with powder coating damage like that leave their shop. You should call Jim and have him look at the pic. I remember my bumper arriving fully wrapped in bubble wrap, cardboard and shrink wrap. The powder coating was flawless. If it was shipping damage or shop damage, they should repair it on their dime. Was there damage to any of the wrapping?

If you want to rattle can it, you may have to do all three hoops just to stay consistent. Wet sand all the hoops with some 400, clean off with thinner, mask at the welds and spray with some VHT epoxy satin black. It has a little more texture and less gloss then the PC. Seriously though, paying that kind of money and waiting 6 months, I wouldn't want anything less then re-powdercoating or having the entire bumper professionally painted.

Here's a pic of my bumper with the wrapping still on the center hoop.

2) Can anyone comment about their experience with the bumper, if the bumper meets all the way to the fender and if such GAP exist for their installation? I looked over everything when the Tech at ok4wd was installing the bumper for me and everything seemed right. All the holes for the bolts matched up perfectly fine. He was the one that actually pointed out that issue to me, and said if he could have made it line up, he definitely would have because it was such a nice piece.

That area you circled in red is completely normal. When the bumper was designed, the 4runner (2003-2005) had straight fender flares. After 2006, the fender flares had a slight curve to them. If you look at the 2008 in front compared to the 2004 to the rear, you can see the difference where the bumper meets the fender flare.

Speaking of gaps. You need to have more of a gap between the bumper and the body. SW recommends 1/2" but 3/4" is really the minimum if you don't want the bumper hitting the body under flex. Looks like they installed the bumper with no gap at all. The first time you flex the frame, you'll either pop the plastic fender flares off or bend some sheet metal. If that's the lowest they can mount the bumper then you can get some gap with a minor body lift. The pics here show how much the bumper moves under flex. The 3/4" gap went to about 1 1/2" on the drivers side and 0 gap on the passenger side. If there wasn't a gap to begin with, the passenger fender flare would have popped off. Even on the street, driving down a highway, the bumper is moving around quite a bit.

 

[ebg18t]

2) Can anyone comment about their experience with the bumper, if the bumper

Speaking of gaps. You need to have more of a gap between the bumper and the body. SW recommends 1/2" but 3/4" is really the minimum if you don't want the bumper hitting the body under flex. Looks like they installed the bumper with no gap at all. The first time you flex the frame, you'll either pop the plastic fender flares off or bend some sheet metal. If that's the lowest they can mount the bumper then you can get some gap with a minor body lift. The pics here show how much the bumper moves under flex. The 3/4" gap went to about 1 1/2" on the drivers side and 0 gap on the passenger side. If there wasn't a gap to begin with, the passenger fender flare would have popped off. Even on the street, driving down a highway, the bumper is moving around quite a bit.

I amazed the frame has that much flex. Has anyone tried to stiffen it up?

 

[Dawg4Runner]

I amazed the frame has that much flex. Has anyone tried to stiffen it up?

Some of the flex is due to the frame itself and some of it due to the rubber body mounts. Flex isn't necessarily a bad thing when off roading. The issue isn't so much the flexing but rather getting aftermarket mods like rigid steel bumpers to work with the flexing.

Here's a comparison of the OP's bumper to body gap and a 3/4" gap

<a href="http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/user/naivivvuli/library/selling/t4r" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/naivivvuli/selling/t4r/IMG_0859.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>

 

[naivivvuli]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I am going to lower the bumper a bit between the body and the bumper.

Dawg4Runner - do you know which bolts I need to loosen to lower? I had a shop install this, so I am fairly a noob to this.

Thanks

 

[Dawg4Runner]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I am going to lower the bumper a bit between the body and the bumper.

Dawg4Runner - do you know which bolts I need to loosen to lower? I had a shop install this, so I am fairly a noob to this.

Thanks

Remove the splash guards. Completely remove the 3/8" check bolt on each side. That's the small bolt in front of the yellowish Grade 8, 1/2" bolt in the pic below. That check bolt is what locks the bumper is place after you align everything. Loosen all the bolts that attach the bumper to the mounting brackets. The bumper should drop down. If it doesn't, then you'll have to loosen the nuts and bolts that connect the mounting brackets to the frame. Chances are, they are already at the lowest point. Once you have the bumper at the desired position, re-torque all the bolts to spec. Now that you've move the bumper, the hole for the check bolt will not line up and have to be re-drilled.

Aligning the bumper can be a real PITA. Removing the OEM bumper, mounting the brackets and the bumper was easy and fast. Aligning it is what takes the most time. Not only do you have to make sure its level left and right, but the front to rear pitch is also level. You may want to have the shop do it if you're not comfortable with it.


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