Just bought a 1994 SR5 4 Runner V6 4x4 5 speed, my oil pan is leaking with slow drip and I tightened all the oil pan bolts bc they were loose. Should I replace the gasket? And how hard is that? Also might need a new clutch soon any suggestions? How much are shops charging to put one in?
New to the 4 Runner family
- Thread starter Usmc1986
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
fourwd1
Moderator
Congrats and welcome to T4R !
If it keeps leaking too much, then you may have to replace the gasket.
Here's a basic how-to:
1. Jack up the truck and put it on jack stands and then put the jack under the front diff.
2. Remove the 4 bolts from the swaybar that runs under the transfer case/tranny and front drive shaft and let the sway bar hang down and out of the way. This has to be lowered to give the differential enough room to drop.
3. Remove the front crossmember (5 bolts). 4 of the bolts are facing you laying down in front of the truck and the 5th bolt is in the huge mounting grommet on the front differential.
4. Remove the 2 bolts from each of the remaining 2 front differential mounts and lower the front diff about a good 6-8 inches by lowering the jack. The first 2 bolts are to the right of the front diff (facing it) and are by the driver's side CV boot. The other 2 are 'behind' the face of the differential and mount the top of the diff to a huge mounting bracket on the passenger side. You'll get to these by going behind the diff under the truck. They are close to the passenger-side swaybar grommet. Kind of go 'up and over' the back of the front diff and you'll find them.
5. At this point, the front diff is lowered a good bit and, assuming you've unbolted the oil pan, it will move around really well, but still won't come out.
6. Unbolt the steering dampener (1 bolt) and let it drop out of the way. The dampner looks like a small black shock absorber that attaches to the steering relay rod. The relay rod is the rod that is attached to the pittman arm (driver's side) and the idler arm (passenger side).
7. You may need a ball-joint separator so I could pull the relay rod off of the pitman rod end. Get a small screw-type seperator and not a wedge type so you won't tear up the rubber seals. The relay rod should swing down and out of the way, and then pull the pan out of the front.
8. Unbolt the oil pump pickup tube (4 bolts) and let it drop into the pan. After that, the pan comes right out.
The installation of the pan, is, as they say, the reverse of removal.
Once the pan is out of the way, you can get a gasket scraper/die grinder/whatever up to the block to do a good cleaning job. Just make sure you torque everything to spec and don't overtighten the oil pan bolts.
If it keeps leaking too much, then you may have to replace the gasket.
Here's a basic how-to:
1. Jack up the truck and put it on jack stands and then put the jack under the front diff.
2. Remove the 4 bolts from the swaybar that runs under the transfer case/tranny and front drive shaft and let the sway bar hang down and out of the way. This has to be lowered to give the differential enough room to drop.
3. Remove the front crossmember (5 bolts). 4 of the bolts are facing you laying down in front of the truck and the 5th bolt is in the huge mounting grommet on the front differential.
4. Remove the 2 bolts from each of the remaining 2 front differential mounts and lower the front diff about a good 6-8 inches by lowering the jack. The first 2 bolts are to the right of the front diff (facing it) and are by the driver's side CV boot. The other 2 are 'behind' the face of the differential and mount the top of the diff to a huge mounting bracket on the passenger side. You'll get to these by going behind the diff under the truck. They are close to the passenger-side swaybar grommet. Kind of go 'up and over' the back of the front diff and you'll find them.
5. At this point, the front diff is lowered a good bit and, assuming you've unbolted the oil pan, it will move around really well, but still won't come out.
6. Unbolt the steering dampener (1 bolt) and let it drop out of the way. The dampner looks like a small black shock absorber that attaches to the steering relay rod. The relay rod is the rod that is attached to the pittman arm (driver's side) and the idler arm (passenger side).
7. You may need a ball-joint separator so I could pull the relay rod off of the pitman rod end. Get a small screw-type seperator and not a wedge type so you won't tear up the rubber seals. The relay rod should swing down and out of the way, and then pull the pan out of the front.
8. Unbolt the oil pump pickup tube (4 bolts) and let it drop into the pan. After that, the pan comes right out.
The installation of the pan, is, as they say, the reverse of removal.
Once the pan is out of the way, you can get a gasket scraper/die grinder/whatever up to the block to do a good cleaning job. Just make sure you torque everything to spec and don't overtighten the oil pan bolts.
