I loaned my 2000 4runner to my daughter in law and she wrecked it when she spun out during a snow storm and hit the center concrete divider on the highway. She is ok but the yota look a beating. The drivers front tire is toed in drastically while the passenger side is straight. I've looked under it and can't see anything bent. I know i'm asking opinions on something you can't see but what would possibly cause the right wheel to toe in so much? I'm looking for suggestions so I have a starting point before I give in and take it to a shop.
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Dom8706
New member
I'm glad she is ok. Scary situation.
I'd start by jacking up the front end and start rocking the tires left to right and up to down. See what's tight and what's loose. While it's jacked up I'd also give everything that's suspension related a good tug and visual inspection. Compare each side if you aren't too familiar with it. Something is bent or broke.
Could be a number of things but my guess would be Inner and or outer tie rods might be toast.
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The main part is that she's ok and thats good. I facepalmed because without 4WD on (if you have it) and summer tires equipped, the 4Runner kinda doesn't like the snow if the throttle is not well controlled. I haven't worked the suspension on mine but maybe the control arms or tie rod ends could be damaged.
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TheSaturnV
Member
My family laughs at me because I've never loaned out my "old" 4runner, which is at this point becoming practically irreplaceable.
Glad she's ok.
Glad she's ok.
TheExplorer
Member
A number of years ago with another vehicle. I hit black ice and went into the curb. I actually bent the lower control arm and had to replace it. So this could be something to look at.
Words of wisdom would be appreciated
I have decided to jump in and replace the LCA, inner and outer tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints and the sway bar ends on both sides. I'm going to order the parts from either Parts Geeks or Detroit Axel because they are 1/3 of the price of the stealership. The boot is torn on the passenger side axle that is less than a year old so I might as well replace the boot or the entire axle. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I've watched videos on the ball joints and they don't look to hard to do but I'm not sure about the inner tie rod.
I have decided to jump in and replace the LCA, inner and outer tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints and the sway bar ends on both sides. I'm going to order the parts from either Parts Geeks or Detroit Axel because they are 1/3 of the price of the stealership. The boot is torn on the passenger side axle that is less than a year old so I might as well replace the boot or the entire axle. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I've watched videos on the ball joints and they don't look to hard to do but I'm not sure about the inner tie rod.
OEM LBJ's and LBJ bolts are worth the price you pay for how long they last. If you have the time and patience rebooting an OEM axle is the preferred way to go for longevity.
Axle boot kit for one axle 04438-35061
Both LBJ's (no cotter pins or castle nuts) 04005-02235
Castle nut (each) 90171-A0005
LBJ bolts (each) (requires 8) 90080-10066 flanged bolt will not work with the LBJ covers 1996-2000 OR 90119-10933 bolt with washer 2001-2002
No Good Deeds
The local mechanic wanted $900 to replace the driver side LCA so I've collected all the parts to do both sides of the Yota (less than $400) upper and lower control arms, ball joints, sway bar link and inner and outer tie rods. I was watching a video on removing the LCAs and it said I have to remove the rack first because the bolts for the LCAs are long and won't clear if I don't. Has anyone done this? Can I just loosen the rack bolts enough to get get the LCA bolts out and back in?
The local mechanic wanted $900 to replace the driver side LCA so I've collected all the parts to do both sides of the Yota (less than $400) upper and lower control arms, ball joints, sway bar link and inner and outer tie rods. I was watching a video on removing the LCAs and it said I have to remove the rack first because the bolts for the LCAs are long and won't clear if I don't. Has anyone done this? Can I just loosen the rack bolts enough to get get the LCA bolts out and back in?
spartacus
Senior Member
I think if you loosen the rack you should be good.
Here is a long video just forward it to the part that you want to see. it's pretty detailed.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...BMAF6BAgCEAE&usg=AOvVaw3N6UQ2f-XiSivMTR6n8Yuv
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cblock406
Member
The video is correct, you have to move the rack out of the way to get the rear lower bolts out. Would be a good time to consider new rack bushings since you are in there.
Too Stroked
Member
Just a word (or two) of caution. Detroit Axle part are cheap for a very good reason: They're not very good. Said another way, they're not very durable and don't generally last very long. Be forewarned.
wtfemery
Member
lent my mom my 4runner one single time so she could go to work because she couldn't find her keys (which ended up literally sitting right on the counter) and she hit a guard rail on an exit ramp because she took the exit way too fast. Luckily it was pretty much just the bumper damaged. Good luck with yours.
T4R2014
Elite Member
He's right. Detroit axle parts are shit.
